Our Last Day in Barolo: Truffles, Wines, and Fond Farewells

If you've been following our European journey (which started with our incredible Bordeaux adventure as described here) and continued through our first Barolo explorations (which you can read about here), you know that Piedmont had already captured our hearts. Our final day in this magical region would prove to be the perfect conclusion to this portion of our trip, combining all the elements that make wine country travel so special – great food, incredible wines, and unforgettable experiences.

FAREWELL TO CASTELLO DI SINIO

Our last morning at Castello di Sinio began with what had become something we looked forward to – breakfast – and this time on their stunning patio. The staff had been absolutely fabulous throughout our stay, attending to every detail with genuine warmth. The breakfast spread continued to impress, with local specialties and fresh pastries that made each morning a special occasion.

Before checking out, we took some time to capture memories of this magnificent property. The interior spaces, with their perfect balance of historic character and modern luxury, deserved proper documentation.

One of our most important photos that morning was with Denise, the castle's owner. We'd promised to send it to Bob Cunningham (who you might remember from the extraordinary evening at il Giallo that I wrote about here). His recommendation to stay at Castello di Sinio had proven to be absolutely perfect, and we wanted to properly thank him by showing our connection with his friend Denise.

TRUFFLE HUNTING AT RIVETTO

After checking out, we made our way to Rivetto for our scheduled truffle hunt. I'd been looking forward to this unique experience since booking it months earlier. Here’s. what we knew from looking at Rivetto’s website before we arrived:

"Our wood of Lirano has been officially recognized as a Regional Truffle Area for the reserved search of truffles. Here truffle hunting is an authentic and unforgettable experience. Coco the dog with her trifulao friend Francesca will guide you through the woods, telling you the secrets of the underground fungus that lives in symbiosis with plants. 20% of the fee will be donated to the project 'Parental School in Nature' of the Associazione Lirano based at Rivetto's."

When we arrived, we were greeted by Francesca, our truffle huntress, and her dog Coco. After changing into more appropriate footwear, we headed downhill through the vineyards toward the wooded area where the truffles grow.

During our walk, Francesca explained that Rivetto was the only biodynamic vineyard in the area, a fact that instantly connected with our experiences at properties like Pontet-Canet in Bordeaux. Their commitment to environmental harmony extended beyond the vineyards and into the surrounding ecosystems.

We learned that the property was divided into four distinct microenvironments, each named differently and suited to various types of truffles. Interestingly, only one section wasn't conducive to truffles – the area thick with chestnut trees, where the resulting soil acidity created unfavorable conditions for truffles but proved excellent for mushrooms.

I hadn't initially noticed the significance of Francesca's special vest for truffle hunting or the orange collar she had placed on Coco, but she explained these were signals to her canine partner that it was time to work. The transformation in Coco's demeanor was remarkable – from playful pet to focused professional in an instant.

THE HUNT BEGINS

Once we entered the woods, Coco went to work, though not without occasional distractions from berries and mice. After about 20 minutes of exploration, we experienced our first success when Coco became intensely focused on a particular spot. Francesca showed us her specialized truffle hunting tool, explaining:

"This is the one I use these days because the soil is very soft because it rained a lot. We have some with a bigger blade when the soil is very hard."

As Coco continued to dig, Francesca carefully took over with her tool and extracted our first truffle. Though small, it had a wonderful aroma. She explained that while it appeared white inside, it was indeed ripe, but the black summer truffle needed significant heat to develop its characteristic scent. The reward system became immediately apparent as Coco received a treat for her discovery – a pattern that would repeat throughout our hunt.

I was fascinated to learn about their efforts to expand truffle production. They were actively planting trees treated with truffle spores in their roots, a process requiring immense patience as these new plantings might take 5-10 years before producing truffles.

MORE TRUFFLE TREASURES

As we continued exploring, Francesca shared insights into how truffle hunting differs between black and white varieties:

"Black truffles, as you saw, are very close to the surface. White truffles can be very deep, I mean 1 meter deep. But you smell the truffle as soon as the dog starts scratching."

Our journey through the woods proved fruitful as Coco located a second truffle, larger than the first though not quite as aromatic. After navigating a steeper section that required a longer route (quite the workout!), we were rewarded with a third find.

This time, Francesca invited me to extract it myself. "Come on, you do it. It's an easy one," she encouraged. Working carefully with the tool, I was surprised by how soft the soil felt as I uncovered our third truffle. The experience of personally unearthing this culinary treasure created a connection to the land I hadn't anticipated.

This final truffle showed signs that an animal had begun eating it, which led to a fascinating lesson about truffle maturity. Francesca explained that the color change indicated it was starting to mature perfectly, and while that specific section would need to be cut away, the remainder was at an ideal stage.

CONNECTIONS TO THE SILVER SCREEN

As we continued our hunt, we couldn't help but ask Francesca about the documentary "The Truffle Hunters" that had recently brought attention to the region's traditions. She shared some fascinating updates about the film's subjects – Aurelio had passed away after the movie, but his beloved dog Birba was being well cared for by neighbors.

She also corrected a misconception from the film – the "curly man's" dog hadn't died from poisoning as suggested in the movie but had actually died two years later after being charged by a wild boar. These behind-the-scenes insights gave us a deeper appreciation for the authentic truffle hunting culture that exists beyond the camera's lens.

FROM TRUFFLES TO WINE

After our successful hunt, I asked if we might be able to taste some of Rivetto's wines. They graciously accommodated us with an impromptu tasting session that proved to be the perfect conclusion to our visit.

What particularly impressed me was learning about the owner's commitment to biodiversity. Beyond the vineyards, they had planted wildflowers, fruit trees, and herbs to support the ecosystem. The property even hosted a school to teach children about nature – a beautiful example of how vineyards can serve as stewards of both tradition and environmental education.

THE WINES OF RIVETTO

Our tasting began with the 2021 Rivetto Langhe Nebbiolo, which sees no oak aging. It showed a typical Langhe Nebbiolo profile both on the nose and palate, earning 91 points from me for its purity of expression.

Next came the 2021 Rivetto Nebbiolo d'Alba Vigna Lirano. I found this to be more tannic than the Langhe Nebbiolo we'd just tried, scoring it 89 points. The comparison between these two expressions of the same grape was fascinating.

We concluded with the 2018 Rivetto Barolo Briccolina, the most structured of the three wines. It displayed that classic Barolo character that we'd come to love during our time in the region. While already impressive, I could tell it would be even more magnificent with additional age, and I scored it 91 points.

The tasting inspired a few purchases – I couldn't resist bringing home bottles of both the 2018 Barolo Briccolina and the 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo, while Dio selected some of their organic fruit juice.

ONWARD TO VENICE

With our wine secured and our hearts full of memories, we bid farewell to Barolo and began our journey to Venice and later to Vienna, the next two chapters in our grand European adventure. As we drove away from the rolling hills and vineyards, I couldn't help but reflect on how this region had exceeded all expectations. From the warmth of the people to the magnificence of the wines, from the luxurious accommodations to the simple pleasure of hunting truffles with a happy dog, Barolo had given us experiences we would treasure forever.

For my detailed tasting notes on all the wines we tasted in Barolo: