Three Terroirs, One Day: Exploring the Diverse World of Barolo
After exploring Paris, spending a week tasting through legendary Bordeaux châteaux (you can read about the beginning of our grand wine journey HERE), enjoying Barcelona's vibrant food scene, and a quick stop in Antibes to visit my wife Dio's family, we finally arrived in the Langhe wine region of Piedmont in northeastern Italy in early June 2023. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, renowned for its cultural landscapes and winemaking traditions dating back centuries, would be our home for three incredible days of wine tastings, meals and exploration.
A WINE DETOUR WORTH THE ADVENTURE
Our journey to Piedmont included a memorable detour during our drive from Barcelona to Antibes. At a dinner in Atlanta months earlier (you can read about that extraordinary evening HERE), I had discovered the remarkable 2019 Charles Heidsieck Coteaux Champenois Ambonnay Rouge from Todd French - founder of the influential online wine community WineBerserkers and a serious collector with impeccable taste. This still red wine from Champagne completely blew my mind, revealing a side of the region I'd never experienced before. Unable to find this rare bottle anywhere in the US, I tracked it down at a French wine shop called Cave Tanins that happened to be just off our planned route!
To ensure they'd have it ready, I reached out in advance:
"I will be travelling by car from Barcelona to Antibes on Saturday 3 June, and would like to pick up some 2019 Charles Heidsieck Rouge Ambonnay from your store while passing through Arles."
The shop proprietor, Paul, kindly arranged for bottles to be waiting at their location in Maussane les Alpilles. What should have been a simple 15-minute detour turned into an unexpected adventure when we encountered a traffic accident blocking the main road into town. With the store's closing time fast approaching, Dio pulled up alternative routes on her phone.
"Are you sure these are public roads and not private property?" I asked as we found ourselves driving on unpaved paths through what appeared to be residents' backyards.
"I'm not sure, but keep going!" was her determined reply.
After 20 minutes of navigating hills, woods, and pastures of southern France on these unpaved back roads, we arrived at the shop just 10 minutes before closing. Mission accomplished! I even received the original wooden case as a bonus.
After the acquisition, the accident still hadn't been cleared, so we grabbed some video of our crazy route back to the main road.
After that adventure, I now have two amazing stories (how I found out about it and how I acquired it) about this wine that I'll be able to share with the people I share it with!
CASTELLO DI SINIO: OUR MEDIEVAL HOME BASE
Our accommodations in Piedmont came via another fortuitous connection. At that same Atlanta dinner where I discovered the Charles Heidsieck rouge, I met Bob Cunningham, wine educator for Acker in NYC and a member of the prestigious "Order of Knights of the Truffle and Wines of Alba." Bob insisted we change our Alba hotel reservation to Castello di Sinio - where the Knights and wine professionals stay when visiting the region. He also strongly recommended we have the castle's concierge service plan our wine tastings and activities rather than trying to book them ourselves. This advice proved invaluable, as they arranged experiences we likely wouldn’t have known about if we booked the activities on our own.
The drive into Langhe was breathtaking, with rolling hillsides covered in meticulously maintained vineyards. As we navigated the narrow streets of the village of Sinio, the medieval castle came into view - an imposing yet welcoming structure that would be our home for the next few days.
Our room offered stunning views over the ancient rooftops and surrounding vineyards. The castle itself blended medieval charm with modern comforts, creating the perfect base for our wine adventures.
FIRST TASTES: DINNER AT PARDINI VINI E CUCINA
Our first taste of Piedmontese wines came that evening at the castle's restaurant, Pardini Vini e Cucina. The owner of the castle, Denise, is also the chef, creating a seamless experience of hospitality. The restaurant's cozy atmosphere with stone walls and candle-lit tables set the perfect mood for our first encounter with the region's wines.
Our evening began with the 2021 Deltetto Barbera d'Alba Bramé, whose ruby red color hinted at the fruity, fragrant profile that followed. The wine's high acidity and medium tannins made it an excellent companion to our first courses, balancing the rich flavors without overwhelming them. I found it to be a perfect introduction to the regional style, scoring it a solid 90 points.
As our main dishes arrived, we shifted to the 2015 Bric Cenciurio Barolo. Despite being relatively young for Barolo, it already showed the classic perfume and spice on the nose that makes these wines so captivating. The tannins, though still prominent, softened beautifully alongside the steak, offering a glimpse of how magnificently this wine will develop over the next decade. I awarded it 91 points, though I suspect it has potential for even higher scores with proper aging.
A DAY OF DIVERSE DISCOVERIES
Following a lovely breakfast in the castle's beautiful dining room the next morning, we were ready for our day of wine exploration. The breakfast was absolutely fabulous. Dio declared it was one of the best buffet spreads she'd encountered on our journey. The freshly baked breads and pastries, hand-squeezed juices, perfectly prepared eggs, sausage and bacon all impressed, but it was the tarte tatin that truly stole the show.
After breakfast, we enjoyed exploring the castle's garden before being treated to the region's characteristic morning fog - "nebbia" in Italian or "nebia" in Piedmontese. This wasn't just any fog, but the very phenomenon that gives the Nebbiolo grape its name, creating a perfect introduction to the region's signature variety.
Our guide Erika from Amanda's Wine Adventures arrived to take us on a tour of three very different producers, each showcasing a different aspect of Barolo's terroir:
Gheddo in La Morra (Tortoniano area, known for more elegant Barolos)
Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno on Cannubi hill (located between both soil types)
Germano Ettore in Serralunga d'Alba (Elveziano area, known for more powerful Barolos)
GHEDDO: SMALL-SCALE PASSION PROJECT
Our first destination was Gheddo in La Morra. As we drove there from the hotel through the countryside, the landscape unfolded in a series of beautifully sculpted vineyards climbing up and down the hillsides - a striking contrast to the relatively flat terrain of Bordeaux.
Approaching what we thought was merely the entrance to the vineyard, we found ourselves parking beside a tiny building known locally as a "ciabot" - the Piedmontese term for a small vineyard shelter traditionally used by workers for tools and occasional refuge during bad weather. To our surprise, the co-owners himself, Giovanni Pippia, opened a window of this diminutive structure and warmly welcomed us - this wasn't just the entrance, but the tasting room itself! Shortly after, two other folks from the same tour company joined our intimate tasting group.
Giovanni explained that the name "Ghëddo" comes from a Piedmontese dialect word expressing authentic, enthusiastic initiative - perfectly capturing how he and his partner had, through pure determination, made this winery happen from scratch. Their commitment extends to protecting vineyard biodiversity, following organic practices, and creating wines that honor both tradition and natural processes.
Giovanni led us on a vineyard tour behind the building, where the views were absolutely stunning - vineyards cascaded down the slopes in every direction. The vantage point offered a perfect introduction to La Morra's terroir, with Giovanni pointing out various parcels and explaining their specific characteristics.
He also shared fascinating viticultural insights throughout our visit. He explained how beneficial mold filaments can actually enhance the grapes by providing selenium, and demonstrated how strategic yeast applications help grape leaves close their pores, creating a natural defense against pests. These kinds of thoughtful, sustainable practices were evident in every aspect of his winemaking approach.
Inside the refurbished ciabot-turned-tasting room, Giovanni guided us through their wines while explaining the map of the region, the various terroir, and where they source grapes for each wine. He also clarified the differences between "Langhe Nebbiolo" and "Barolo" in terms of aging requirements and grape sourcing regulations.
The 2022 Ghëddo Dolcetto d'Alba caught my attention with its ruby color, though I found the nose unusually faint for this variety. The good tannic structure promised aging potential, leading me to score it 90 points. Moving on to the 2021 Ghëddo Barbera d'Alba, Giovanni explained how they keep it on the skins for 15-20 days before aging in old oak casks. The dark ruby color gave way to a fruity, pleasant character with surprisingly low tannins. What struck me most was how it reminded me somewhat of a Pinot Noir – not what I expected from Barbera! This pleasant surprise earned 91 points from me.
When we reached the 2021 Ghëddo Langhe Nebbiolo, often referred to as a "Baby Barolo," I immediately noticed its light crimson color from the year in oak. The medium tannins and quintessential Nebbiolo profile made for a classic expression of this grape in its more approachable form – worthy of 90 points on my scale.
The star of Giovanni's lineup was undoubtedly his 2018 Ghëddo Barolo. Darker crimson than the Langhe Nebbiolo, it delivered a wonderfully floral nose with pronounced violet and cherry notes. The balanced medium tannins and excellent structure earned it 92 points, and I immediately asked about purchasing several bottles. Unfortunately, he was nearly sold out – the universal sign of a winemaker doing something right!
Given their small production, Giovanni limited purchases to one bottle per wine per guest. I bought one each of the 2020 Ghëddo Barbera d'Alba, the 2022 Ghëddo Dolcetto d'Alba, and the 2021 Ghëddo Langhe Nebbiolo Langhe DOC. Before we left, Giovanni asked me to email him with my thoughts once I tasted them back in the Atlanta – a genuine request that showed his passion for customer feedback.
This intimate tasting experience reminded me of similar encounters at small family operations like Vignobles Arbo in Bordeaux (you can read about that experience HERE) and sharing Ramiro's personal syrah blend in Napa or tasting with Kerith, owner of Bruliam in Sonoma (you can read about both of those experiences HERE). These personal connections with passionate winemakers always create the most memorable experiences.
After tasting, we captured the spectacular 360-degree views surrounding the winery and took a final photo with Giovanni before departing.
LA MORRA: PANORAMIC PERSPECTIVES
After the tasting at Gheddo, we drove further up the road and learned that La Morra is the highest of the Barolo Villages - at an elevation of 513 meters. Once we reached the top of La Morra, we were rewarded with some of the most spectacular panoramic views of the stunning patchwork of vineyards stretching across hills and valleys I've ever experienced in a wine region.
Take a moment to check out the video we captured – I guarantee it will make you understand why I now consider this the most beautiful wine region I've ever visited. As wonderful as the wine tastings and grandeur of the châteaux in Bordeaux were, the beauty of Piedmont's dramatic hillside landscapes completely overshadows the relatively flat topography of Bordeaux.
FRATELLI SERIO E BATTISTA BORGOGNO: HISTORY ON CANNUBI HILL
After taking in the views from La Morra, we headed to Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno. During the drive, our guide Erika shared fascinating information about the Langhe region and its name:
"So this in this area we also have a lot of castles. It's called also Langhe de Casel. It means “the area with a lot of castles”. Langhe is the name of this area. It probably was a Celtic word with a different meaning, so it could be all connected to a population called Langaum or Langhe means that you see all the hills sort of long - langa or tongue so they have a different versions."
We arrived at the top of Cannubi hill with its magnificent 360-degree views. This winery sits directly in the middle of the Tortoniano and Elveziano soil regions, a position that would prove crucial to understanding the wines we were about to taste. Unlike the newer Gheddo operation, Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno boasts over 120 years of history and is now run by the 5th generation of the family, Emanuela Bolla and Federica Boffa.
The location "in the heart of Cannubi" provides incredible views of the area including La Morra to the northwest and Castiglione Falletto to the southeast.
View of La Morra from Canubbi Hill
Our guide Lucrezia Sandri first took us through their cellar, where we saw the signature large old oak barrels (barriques) - the traditional aging vessels for Barolo that this producer has maintained despite modern trends toward smaller barrels and new oak.
The tasting room featured an antique bottling line and charming displays of their wines.
At the beginning of our tasting, Lucrezia shared the fascinating history of the Nascetta grape. She explained how this prized indigenous variety from the hills of Novello in Piedmont had nearly vanished completely before being rescued by a dedicated group of passionate winemakers. The revival of this ancient grape represented a true labor of love, transforming it from near-extinction to earning its own appellation in less than twenty years.
The 2022 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Langhe Nascetta proved to be one of the most delightful surprises of our tasting journey. I had never encountered this grape variety before, making the discovery all the more exciting as its elegant, semi-aromatic character unfolded with notes of citrus, white flowers, and a distinctive minerality. Lucrezia mentioned that relatively little Nascetta is produced in the region, with locals preferring to keep this vinous treasure largely to themselves – perhaps explaining why I struggled to find any bottles when I returned to the US! I scored this wine 90 points.
Lucrezia explained that their Nascetta project began in 2018 in collaboration with Federico Sclerandi, initially using grapes from both Diano d'Alba and Sinio. In 2021, they established a new vineyard on family-owned land in Diano d'Alba, while continuing to source complementary grapes from Sinio from a family with whom they share viticultural philosophy.
Lucrezia poured two expressions of Nebbiolo side by side, allowing us to contrast their different approaches to this noble grape. The 2020 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Nebbiolo d'Alba, opened the previous day, showed how a bit of air can benefit these wines. Its darker crimson color suggested more extraction, while the tannic structure remained present but integrated nicely with the fruit – qualities that would pair beautifully with food. This earned 90 points on my scale.
In contrast, the 2022 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Langhe Nebbiolo had been opened just that morning. Lucrezia explained their unique approach: fermentation in steel with 20% whole bunch, followed by a few months aging in steel barrels. The result was a noticeably lighter ruby-crimson color and a more approachable, fruit-forward style that would work wonderfully even without food. I gave this fresher, more immediate expression 91 points for its purity and charm.
For the finale of our tasting, Lucrezia presented their flagship Barolos side by side – a masterclass in terroir expression. The 2019 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Barolo, opened the previous day, surprised me with its accessibility. After 18 months in wood, this classic expression showed a light brown color and remarkably approachable profile with distinctive licorice notes layered under lighter, fruitier elements. Its harmony and balance earned 92 points from me.
But the true revelation came with the 2019 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Barolo Cannubi. Freshly opened for our tasting, this wine immediately announced its presence with a light brown color barely containing the spicy complexity on the nose. Despite having spent 30 months in wood, the wine remained vibrant and full of potential. This was clearly a wine built for the long haul, already showing incredible poise that earned 95 points from me – and I'm certain it will only improve with time. This was the kind of wine that makes you understand why certain vineyards achieve legendary status.
As we tasted these Barolos, Lucrezia explained the significance of Cannubi hill while pointing to different areas on a map. On Cannubi hill, they own three hectares across three main sections of Cannubi for their Barolo production.
She detailed how the unique combination of soil types, exposures, and microclimate creates the perfect conditions for complex wines:
"For this reason, the [Cannubi] microclimate is absolutely fresher. It means it's very, very small, protected from the other hills around, so we have a warmer microclimate. For this reason, completely different characteristics. We call this kind of Barolo classico because it's classic. It's fruity, it's full body, traditional, very classic. Instead in Cannubi you will find more shades and flavors because of different weather, different expositions. But the other very important difference. This one Barolo area is divided into two main areas: Tortoniano and Elveziano. Tortoniano is typical from La Morra, from Novello, Barolo Novello, and it's like sand. So when it rains or snows, the water doesn't remain in the ground, and for this reason, when you try Barolos from this side, they are immediately more gentle speaking about tannins. Tannins aren't super dry and super strong. Everything is more elegant, we can say. But on the other side, so up there, we have Castiglione Falletto, Serraluga d' Alba and Monforte d' Alba. They have Helvetian soil that is like clay. So here the water remains in the ground and in fact they produce very powerful Barolo wines with very dry tannins. This is the main difference, elegance; super structured. Cannubi is in the middle, so we have both because we are also smaller, so every soil in Barolo area they finish here in Cannubi. Cannubi, it comes from the Italian word connubio that means union because here we have the union of the two sides of Barolo area Tortoniano and Elveziano. And that's perfect because we can produce a very complete wine. You will feel the elegance, you will feel a fresh taste, but also the structure at the same time."
Lucrezia also showed us the soil samples from their three vineyards - Gorat, Battista, and Nuova - explaining how they harvest and ferment from each separately. She discussed their biodiversity efforts, including planting additional plants and shrubs in their new Nascetta vineyard in Diano d'Alba and ongoing tree-planting projects on the Battista vineyard in Cannubi.
During our exploration of the winery, Lucrezia pointed out a poster for "The Truffle Hunters" documentary and enthusiastically described their special bottles labeled in tribute to the film and its colorful characters. Her passionate recommendation of the film, which chronicles the traditional truffle hunting culture of this very region, convinced Dio to make time to watch it that evening - perfect preparation for our own truffle hunting adventure scheduled for the following morning.
Finally, we saw their beautiful bottling line - the closest I've ever been to one of these pieces of equipment - before making some wine purchases.
I purchased three bottles: the 2019 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Barolo Cannubi, the 2013 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Barolo Riserva Cannubi (which we didn't taste, but I bought because I know how great the 2013 vintage can be!), and the 2019 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Barolo.
We then went outside to take more photos - including against the backdrop of those incredible vineyard views.
LUNCH IN BAROLO VILLAGE
Following our morning tastings, we headed to DiVin Cafe vino e cucina in the town of Barolo for lunch. The restaurant's casual atmosphere and regional cuisine provided a perfect midday break. Their tangerine with pesto creation proved to be a culinary revelation - one of those unexpected flavor combinations that somehow works brilliantly. The desserts, too, were memorably delicious.
Before continuing our journey, we ducked into a charming local shop to select some pantry treasures, arranging to have them shipped directly to Atlanta - ensuring a taste of Piedmont would be waiting for us at home.
After eating and shopping, we strolled through the charming village and admired Barolo's castle, home to the innovative WiMu Wine Museum. Though we didn't have time to visit on this trip, Erika assured us it was both interactive and educational - definitely on our list for our next visit.
GERMANO ETTORE: MODERN TRADITION IN SERRALUNGA D'ALBA
Our last stop of the day was at Germano Ettore in the Serralunga d'Alba commune in the eastern Elveziano area of Barolo. On the way there, we got stuck behind a tractor - a familiar sight that reminded me of similar experiences in Napa and Sonoma!
During the drive, Erika explained that while Barolo the DOC gets its name from Barolo the village, the essence of Barolo – its power, structure, nuance, cherry fruit, and distinctive aromas – is found more in Serralunga than anywhere else. This area stands opposite from La Morra on the Barolo spectrum, with Serralunga's high limestone content creating the region's most powerful expressions. This is why Serralunga represents the structured, powerful end of the Barolo scale, while La Morra showcases the more elegant side.
Once we arrived, our guide Paola began by explaining how they produce different red wines, including two styles of Barbera (one aged in stainless steel, another in wooden barrels), a Langhe Nebbiolo, and five different Barolos from four distinct areas plus a blend.
She then shared the winery's history: Since 1856, the Germanos have farmed vineyards on Cerretta hill, one of Serralunga d'Alba's most prestigious Crus. While Francesco Germano (great grandfather of current owner Sergio) and Alberto (grandfather) sold only grapes, Ettore (father and namesake) was the first to sell bottled wine. Sergio Germano, however, took the decisive step of bottling the estate's entire production beginning in 1993.
During our tour of the vat room and cellar, we briefly met Sergio himself. Paola later described him as a "modern traditionalist" - scientifically trained but grounded in regional traditions, aiming to express each vineyard, grape variety, and vintage while maintaining the "connection between Sergio Germano and Serralunga d'Alba."
Before our tasting, we took in the spectacular views from the Sky Deck of the surrounding vineyards and countryside. Paola pointed out their vineyards and various producer’s vineyards as we talked about Barolo’s need for more biodiversity.
We moved back inside to the tasting room for our third and final wine tasting of the day
We then started our tasting with another dimension of Nascetta. Scoring 91 points from me, the 2021 Germano Ettore Langhe Nascetta showed a fascinating disconnect between nose and palate – citrus aromatics gave way to herbaceous flavors that created an intriguing complexity. Having tasted two expressions of this indigenous variety in one day, I found myself slightly preferring this version to the Borgogno, though both showcased why local winemakers are so enthusiastic about preserving this once-endangered grape.
Paola shared that during his winemaking education, Sergio developed a passion for Italian white wines that has made him one of Piedmont's most respected white wine producers. His winemaking philosophy centers on expressing terroir and varietal character. He believes the most simple approach to the winemaking is expressing the terroir and the varietal character. He loves the minerality, freshness and longevity in white and sparkling wines.
Without question, the standout wine at Germano Ettore was the next wine we tasted: the 2019 Germano Ettore Barbera d'Alba. After 12 months in old wood barrels, this wine had developed a remarkable integration of flavors – ruby color in the glass gave way to dark fruit aromatics, followed by an unexpectedly silky texture. The tannins had mellowed beautifully, creating a round, balanced expression that showcased why Barbera deserves more recognition. Among all the wines we tasted at this producer, this one commanded my highest score at 93 points.
Paola showed us a sample of the vineyard's rocky soil, creating a tangible connection between what we were tasting and its origins.
Following the impressive Barbera, the 2021 Germano Ettore Langhe Nebbiolo offered a striking contrast with its very light ruby color. Despite being younger, it showed more pronounced tannins than the Barbera we'd just enjoyed. The fruity character on both nose and palate suggested this wine's youthful exuberance, earning it 90 points while hinting at its future development.
Paola explained how the well-drained, rocky soils and optimal sun exposure create ideal conditions for robust, aromatic grapes. The Germano family maintains high vine density through 'massal selection' propagation techniques, ensuring quality and diversity. Their sustainable viticulture emphasizes manual labor and natural fertilization.
Completing our exploration of Germano Ettore's portfolio were two distinct expressions of Barolo. The 2017 Barolo Cerretta, opened the previous day, showcased the quintessential profile of traditional Barolo with prominent tannins framing the classic aromatic and flavor profile. I awarded it 90 points, recognizing its adherence to style while noting it would benefit from additional aging.
Sergio's winemaking philosophy became clear when Paola explained his approach to tannin management: "to give longevity, but sweet quality." His technique involves late harvesting and extended maceration of 30-50 days on the skins to extract compounds that help with proper maturation.
By comparison, the 2018 Barolo Prapò had just been opened before our tasting. The difference was immediately apparent – this wine presented a more accessible nose with bright fruit characteristics and notably better integrated tannins than the Cerretta. This greater immediacy and harmony earned it 91 points and demonstrated how vintage variations and specific vineyard sites create distinctive expressions even under the same winemaker's hand.
I couldn't resist purchasing several bottles of the outstanding 2019 Germano Ettore Barbera d'Alba to bring home - it was simply too good to pass up.
WRAPPING UP A PERFECT DAY
Erika offered to hold and ship our wines to us in the fall, along with the Charles Heidsieck Ambonnay Rouge bottles I'd acquired. This thoughtful service meant we wouldn't have to carry bottles for the remainder of our journey.
Before heading back, she took us to her favorite viewpoint overlooking Castiglione Falletto for some final photos, capturing the essence of this breathtaking wine region.
In between the end of the wine tour and dinner, Dio watched 'The Truffle Hunters,' the documentary Lucrezia had so highly recommended. This beautifully crafted 2020 film offers an intimate look at the traditional truffle hunters of the Langhe region and their beloved, specially trained dogs. The timing couldn't have been more perfect, giving us valuable context for our own truffle hunt scheduled for 9 a.m. the following morning.
We ended the evening with a lovely dinner at Ristorante Iride, where Dio savored a mushroom risotto that captured the essence of the region, followed by a delicate strawberry meringue dessert. The regional cuisine and warm, unpretentious atmosphere created the perfect backdrop for reflecting on a day filled with remarkable wines, stunning landscapes, and the passionate people behind them.
Back at Castello di Sinio, we wandered the castle grounds at dusk, watching the lights of distant villages begin to twinkle across the valleys.
The best wine of the day was unquestionably the 2019 Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno Barolo Cannubi. Now I truly understand why Cannubi is so important and sought after in the wine world - the perfect union of elegance and power.
Stay tuned for my next post about our final day in Barolo - our truffle hunt and a surprise wine tasting at Rivetto!
