The Cellar Chronicles: Three Michelin Stars in a 17th Century Winery
Nine years in the making, our visit to Vienna finally fulfilled Dio's childhood dreams of experiencing the legendary opera and viewing Klimt's masterpieces firsthand. Beyond these cultural treasures, the city introduced me to an extraordinary wine experience that forever changed my perspective on dessert wines. Our adventures ranged from dining in a 17th-century winery to discovering mineral-rich healing water and developing an unexpected obsession with cheese-filled street sausages – proving once again that travel's greatest joys often come from the most unexpected places.
THE LONGEST DETOUR
My wife Dio and I got married back in 2014, and for our honeymoon, we decided to visit places neither of us had experienced before. We settled on Prague for the first half and Vienna for the second. Vienna was a must for Dio who, since childhood, had dreamed of experiencing its legendary art scene and attending the Vienna Opera.
After arriving in Prague that November, we encountered bone-chilling cold that made outdoor exploration nearly impossible. Reluctantly, we cancelled our Vienna plans since the weather would be equally frigid and searched for a warmer alternative. We discovered Milan had the warmest temperatures of any city with direct flights from Prague. Though Milan had never been on our travel wishlist, we took a chance and discovered an unexpected gem. We thawed out while admiring The Last Supper, exploring the Duomo, shopping, and enjoying spectacular food. Milan captivated us so completely that we've since returned!
When planning our 40-day European adventure in 2023, Vienna claimed a non-negotiable spot on our itinerary. For background on this epic journey, check out my post here. This time, we wisely scheduled our Vienna visit during summer! With our five-day stay secured, Dio immediately booked two experiences: lunch at Amador and an evening at the Vienna Opera – both on the same unforgettable day.
WINERY WALLS AND CULINARY ARTISTRY
On June 10, 2023, we traveled from our Park Hyatt Vienna accommodations to Amador via a quick 15-minute Uber ride. The restaurant's location immediately distinguished it from other fine dining establishments we've visited. Nestled in the Viennese foothills within the working Weingut Hajszan Neumann winery, Amador offers something truly unique before you even taste a morsel of food.
Playful penguin statues greeted us outside, adding an unexpected whimsical touch that foreshadowed the balanced approach of serious cuisine presented with creative spirit.
Stepping inside revealed one of the most distinctive dining spaces I've encountered – a long, half-cylindrical room with dramatic brick vaulted ceilings dating back centuries. The sleek dining room juxtaposes those rustic brick surroundings with crisp white tablecloths and strategic red accents.
Our server revealed the building's fascinating history – constructed in the 17th century as a sparkling wine production facility, destroyed during wartime, then lovingly rebuilt and repurposed by Austrian winemaker Wieninger. From our table, we enjoyed direct views into the winery's barrel cave where Mr. Wieninger crafts his celebrated Chardonnay and other Austrian specialties.
For a wine enthusiast, this setting couldn't be more perfect – dining inside a 17th-century working winery while discovering the relatively unfamiliar (to me) world of Austrian wines.
LIQUID SURPRISES BEYOND THE BOTTLE
I know it's unusual to start a wine pairing experience by talking about water, but I simply must highlight the extraordinary Thalheim Heilwasser that accompanied our meal. This special water offered a refreshing mineral-rich profile reminiscent of an unsweetened Gatorade. Our server seemed genuinely pleased by our enthusiasm for this distinctive water, explaining that most international diners request standard options instead. We became so enamored with this mineral water that upon returning to the US, we ordered it through Austrian Supermarket and now regularly enjoy it at home. Travel always reveals unexpected treasures beyond the anticipated highlights!
A CULTURAL FUSION BEHIND THE PLATES
Our Amador experience showcased the culinary perspective of a German-born chef with Spanish immigrant parents. This heritage appeared immediately in an impressive tapas-style opening sequence – a welcome change after the heavier Parisian cuisine we'd enjoyed earlier in our journey. The cuisine masterfully blended Spanish influences with French techniques and Asian flavor profiles, creating a distinctive and memorable culinary identity.
A TRIO OF AUSTRIAN TREASURES
Our wine journey began with the 2017 Wieninger Pinot Noir Wiener Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature, which earned 92 points from me. This Austrian sparkling exhibited a light amber hue and delightful floral citrus aromatics reminiscent of tangerine. It paired brilliantly with my seafood-free potato appetizer. Upon inquiring about where I could find this exceptional sparkling to purchase, our sommelier delivered disappointing news – it's exclusively available at Amador and not commercially released. Wine discovery's greatest frustration is finding something extraordinary that remains tantalizingly out of reach!
Dio enjoyed a beautiful Kingcrab dish with Jalapeño and Spiced-Tea accents, while I savored a potato creation crafted to accommodate my seafood allergy.
Our second pour featured the 2022 Wieninger Grüner Veltliner Wiener, scoring 90 points. The sommelier revealed this as their house wine, produced by the very winemaker whose operation shares the building – a rare and delightful connection between plate and glass! Nearly transparent in appearance with gentle tannins and pronounced melon notes, this wine beautifully accompanied my 'Walk in a forest' variation.
The dish was designed as a whimsical woodland scene. While Dio's version incorporated a velvety mashed potato base enhanced with subtle flavors and crowned with Royal Caviar and Buckwheat elements, mine offered a thoughtfully crafted seafood-free interpretation. The centerpiece of my plate featured an innovative mushroom bread designed to imitate a fallen tree trunk from which various mushrooms appeared to grow naturally. The presentation included different varieties of mushrooms, while vibrant parsley represented moss growing on the woodland floor. Our server invited us to take 'a walk through the forest' with this imaginative creation, which paired remarkably well with the wine's crisp character.
Completing our Austrian trilogy came the 2019 Weingut Hajszan-Neumann Riesling Nußberg, earning 89 points. Darker than the previous Grüner Veltliner yet still relatively light, this wine displayed greater structural complexity with distinct starfruit aromatics and more pronounced alcohol presence. Though not perfectly aligned with my personal preferences, its quality and classic Riesling character were undeniable.
Dio savored a creative 'Vitello Tonnato' with Rhubarb, Scallop, and Raspberry, while my version substituted Veal Tartare for the seafood component. My dish featured a refined cream made from different root vegetables, topped with shaved Parmesan and garnished with freshly cooked Roma tomato and Meyer lemon accents. Our server referred to the final element of the dish as 'the magic' – a small component designed to be eaten with our fingers to complete the experience. This reinterpretation of a classic Italian dish showcased the chef's innovative approach while providing an excellent canvas for evaluating the Riesling's structural elements.
These opening wines delivered something rare in fine dining – hyperlocal authenticity that connected our meal directly to its surroundings. I gained invaluable insight into Austrian winemaking literally from the source, guided by our knowledgeable sommelier.
THE IBERIAN INTERLUDE
Our journey continued with the 2018 Juvé y Camps Cava Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva from Spain. This cava presented significantly heavier than the previous Austrian sparkling, showing light brownish-gold color and an almost bitter palate when tasted independently. When first paired with our bread and butter course, it created an almost discordant experience that left me questioning its selection. My assessment at this point hovered around 87 points.
Our bread course featured artisanal creations from Julius Brantner of Munich. The first bread was notably plain yet delivered an exceptionally soft texture and delicate flavor profile. The second, darker sourdough incorporated fermented apple, adding a subtle sweet touch that balanced its earthy character. This thoughtful bread selection reflected Chef Amador's Spanish culinary roots. Accompanying the breads was slightly salted butter from Jean-Yves Bordier of Saint-Malo, France, complemented by a housemade bread spread crafted from chorizo. The crowning element was the extraordinary olive oil from Castillo de Canena in Jaén, Andalusia – a first harvest from wild olives evident in its vibrant green color and distinctive flavor intensity.
Something remarkable happened next – when I tasted the same 2018 Juvé y Camps Cava Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva with my non-seafood caviar alternative, the wine transformed completely. This pairing epiphany perfectly demonstrates how contextual wine appreciation can be, elevating my score on this wine to 91 points.
We had moved into the 'Momentum' section of the menu, beginning with an Iced Beurre Blanc course with variations for both Dio and myself – hers incorporating Gillardeau Oyster N°2, Hazelnutmilk, and Imperial Caviar, while mine offered a seafood-free interpretation. This clever transformation of a classic sauce into a frozen delicacy exemplified the chef's signature innovative approach.
The 2020 Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Parcela Única from Portugal's Vinho Verde region earned 91 points, displaying light gold coloration and pronounced melon aromatics. Its production incorporates both steel and oak aging, creating appealing tannic structure while maintaining excellent balance. This thoughtful selection complemented our Rouget de Roche course beautifully. The dish was artfully constructed with a delicate spinach puree forming the foundation on the plate. Crowning the creation was a playful spinach chip the kitchen team nicknamed 'the roller coaster' due to its curved, undulating shape. The composition was completed with an aromatic foam crafted from Arabica coffee blended with passionfruit, creating a sophisticated interplay of earthy and tropical notes that paired remarkably well with the wine's structured character.
CONVENTIONAL WISDOM CHALLENGED
Returning to Austrian selections, we received the 2018 Wieninger Chardonnay Grand Select, deserving 91 points. Light amber in appearance with pleasant petrol notes on the nose, this wine delivered a creamy, well-structured palate that stood confidently on its own merits.
What made this pairing truly revolutionary for me was its accompaniment to beef – specifically wagyu. The meat and sauce exhibited such delicate qualities that this white wine partnership proved remarkably successful. As someone who gravitates toward reds, this represented my first experience with white wine and beef – a combination I'd previously considered culinary heresy but now appreciate as inspired genius when properly executed. Dio enjoyed a Breton Turbot dish while I savored the wagyu, both featuring the same distinctive sauce based on a Hungarian dish called goulash. This vibrant orange sauce incorporated cabbage and bell pepper, topped with a warm caraway foam. Both presentations included an exceptionally thin slice of bresaola from Italy, a crisp pork belly chip, and a delicate turnip cabbage roll. Our server confided that this creation ranked among his personal top three dishes currently on the menu – a high compliment that proved well-deserved.
THE PIEDMONT POWERHOUSE
Our final savory course arrived with 2018 Le Piane Piane Rosso from Italy's Piedmont region, earning 92 points. This wine is classified as a Vino da Tavola (VdT), or "table wine" - a designation for wines made from grapes grown anywhere in Italy without specific geographical indication requirements. Dark ruby red with complex date and licorice aromatics alongside noticeable alcohol presence, this bone-dry yet balanced wine exemplified food-friendly Italian craftsmanship.
Our sommelier explained his philosophy behind this selection as 'getting out of the way of the chef' – choosing a wine that would support rather than overshadow our Mieral Pigeon dish. Having recently explored Piedmont earlier in our journey (you can read about those adventures here), I found this approach particularly interesting. Most Piedmontese wines we'd tasted – particularly the powerful, tannic Barolos – would never be described as "getting out of the way" of anything! This thoughtful contrast in style selection demonstrated our sommelier's skillful approach to pairing.
The pigeon was meticulously prepared to maintain its remarkably juicy red flesh, touched by heat for just the perfect duration to preserve its quality. It was elegantly glazed with purple curry, which also featured in the accompanying sauce along with hints of coconut. Completing the presentation was a delicate mango element that balanced the rich flavors. This signature creation delivered spectacular flavors that the wine complemented perfectly without competing for attention.
THE DESSERT WINE CONVERSION
The meal's vinous pinnacle arrived with dessert: 2016 Oremus Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos from Hungary, scoring an impressive 94 points. This extraordinary dessert wine offered greater minerality than the many Sauternes I've tried in the past while sharing similar aromatic qualities. Its impeccable structure allowed it to shine independently of food, though it created magical pairings with our sweet courses.
Our Hungarian sommelier introduced me to this style, which had previously escaped my attention. I was surprised to discover that Oremus is actually owned by Vega Sicilia - the legendary Spanish producer behind Unico, my favorite Spanish red wine. Learning that this prestigious Spanish house also produces wine in Hungary was an unexpected revelation! After years of finding most dessert wines excessively sweet or too alcoholic for my palate, I've FINALLY discovered one that speaks to me! The wine harmonized beautifully across our dessert progression.
The final course in the 'Momentum' section featured an elegant Malaga Strawberry dessert built around a delicate panna cotta crafted from sheep milk. The presentation included distinctive dark pearls infused with green Szechuan pepper, creating subtle heat to contrast with the sweet elements. Complementing the main component was a refined sheep milk yogurt preparation presented two ways - as both a silky ice cream and a light, airy foam. The composition was completed with a crunchy housemade granola that added textural contrast.
This was followed by 'Pequeñas Locuras' small bites: a Banana treat with Chocolate and Curry, Rhubarb Cake 'leger', a Carrot creation with Yoghurt and Walnut, Schwarzwälder Kirsch in both 'sweet & salty' variations, and an artistic dessert paying Homage to Joan Miró.
Coffee, tea, and a final "Happy End" bite concluded our planned menu, though we also received an unexpected anniversary treat due to some charming confusion about our special occasions!
THE GESTURE THAT DEFINES HOSPITALITY
As our extraordinary meal concluded, our sommelier returned with an additional glass of the 2017 Wieninger Pinot Noir Wiener Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature from our opening course – a thoughtful acknowledgment of my enthusiasm for this exclusive sparkling. Such personalized attention exemplifies the service that distinguishes truly exceptional dining experiences.
The culinary highlights varied between us – Dio particularly praised her Kingcrab dish while I favored the exquisite pigeon preparation.
Dio also appreciated the non-alcoholic pairing options, some featuring the sommelier's personal distillations crafted specifically to complement certain dishes.
Beyond the meal itself, we established a warm rapport with our sommelier who generously shared recommendations for both dining and wine shopping in Vienna, specifically directing us to Wein & Co.
What impressed me most was the hyper-local focus of the wine program – some wines produced literally within the same building as our meal! This genuine connection to place created an authenticity that can't be replicated, culminating perfectly with our Hungarian sommelier proudly sharing a treasure from his homeland.
This exceptional experience in such a distinctive setting ranks among our most memorable three-star adventures, approaching the standard set by our favorite, Addison in San Diego (you can read our experience at Addison HERE).
OPERA NIGHT AFTER AUSTRIAN DELIGHTS
Pleasantly full after our magnificent lunch, we returned to our hotel and ventured out shopping to aid digestion. While Dio explored various retail establishments, I headed straight to Wein & Co. on our sommelier's recommendation. Successfully locating two Wieninger bottlings – 2022 Wieninger Nussberg Gruner Veltliner Wiener Wein & 2019 Wieninger Chardonnay Select Wiener Wein – allowed me to bring a taste of our experience home.
After refreshing ourselves at the hotel, we prepared for Dio's lifelong dream – attending the Vienna Opera for a performance of The Marriage of Figaro. Though 3.5 hours long, the experience proved absolutely magical, especially meaningful in Mozart's city where this masterpiece first debuted.
While we weren’t able to film any footage of the show itself, we did get shots of the stunning building before and after the show
We concluded this perfect day with an authentic local touch – stopping at a street stand for Käsekrainer sausages and Coca-Cola, combining high culture with street food in true Viennese style.
DREAMS FULFILLED, NEW PASSIONS DISCOVERED
Our Vienna stay delivered other bucket-list moments, including viewing Klimt's The Kiss at the Belvedere Museum – another childhood dream realized for Dio.
Between cultural highlights and museum visits, we discovered unexpected culinary treasures. The humble Käsekrainer – cheese-filled sausages available at stands throughout Vienna – became something of an obsession during our stay.
I find myself unable to declare a winner between Amador's three-star refinement and the simple pleasure of these street sausages. Both represent Vienna's culinary identity from opposite ends of the spectrum, each perfect in its unique way.
Our belated Vienna visit, nine years after our original honeymoon plans, proved well worth the wait – fulfilling Dio's lifelong dreams while creating new memories and discoveries we'll cherish forever.
