Cultivation Trip 2023: Five Days of Wine Discovery in Sonoma and Napa

This past July, my wife Dio and I embarked on our third California wine adventure, but our first as part of the Atlanta High Museum Wine cultivation team. Unlike our previous self-guided explorations (if you're interested in our first two adventures, you can check them out here and here), this trip placed us in the unique position of ambassadors for one of the country's premier wine auctions.

As benefactors who had enthusiastically embraced the High Museum Wine Auction's mission over the years, joining their official cultivation trip felt like a natural evolution of our involvement. These journeys – aptly named because representatives "cultivate" relationships with boutique producers – blend official visits with spontaneous discoveries, all while strengthening connections between Atlanta's wine and art communities.

The biggest difference with this trip was that I didn't plan our winery visits like I did for our previous two Napa adventures. Instead, our schedule was crafted by the High Museum team, which meant we went into many tastings not knowing what to expect – a refreshing change of pace that added an element of discovery to each stop. While I was already quite familiar with Pride Mountain, Pahlmeyer, and Fait-Main (the latter being home to my favorite American winemaker, Benoit Touquette), the rest of our itinerary introduced us to producers I'd never encountered before.

For five packed days, our small group visited fourteen distinctive wineries across Sonoma and Napa, sampling more than sixty wines along the way.

We started our stay with a weekend in San Francisco, revisiting favorites like Cotogna and making the obligatory In-N-Out Burger stop while traveling to Sonoma.

Let me take you along this remarkable journey through California wine country!

CHECKING INTO MONTAGE HEALDSBURG

After arriving in Sonoma on Sunday, July 9, we checked into the luxurious Montage Healdsburg. We spent the afternoon exploring the stunning property, taking advantage of the refreshing pool, and simply unwinding before our packed schedule began. For dinner, we enjoyed our first meal of the trip at the resort's restaurant, savoring local cuisine while reviewing our itinerary for the days ahead.

CYCLING CHAMPION TURNED WINEMAKER AT HAMEL FAMILY

Monday morning began bright and early with a visit to Hamel Family Wines, where hosts Vicki Tomiser and Geoff Labitzke welcomed us to their stunning property. Our experience started with an impressive tour of their cave system, where we were immediately struck by the meticulous arrangement of oak barrels lining both sides of the long, arched corridors. The pristine white walls and carefully controlled environment created a cathedral-like atmosphere for wine aging.

A highlight of the tour was their unique egg-shaped concrete fermentation vessel, dramatically positioned in a specially designed circular alcove with exposed brick. This distinctive fermentation tank, which looked almost like a space capsule against the earthy backdrop, showcased their commitment to both tradition and innovation in winemaking.

We also explored their glass-enclosed wine library and private tasting area, getting glimpses of both the technical and hospitality sides of their operation. Throughout these impressive spaces, we could see how thoughtfully the architecture had been designed to enhance both the winemaking process and visitor experience.

After our comprehensive cave tour, we moved to their elegant tasting room. There, Associate Winemaker Maura Kinsella led us through their portfolio and shared her fascinating background with us. A former professional cyclist who represented the USA National Team, her winemaking journey took her through New Zealand before she earned a master's degree in Winemaking and Viticulture at the University of Bordeaux. Her impressive resume includes stints at prestigious estates including Château Palmer and J.P. Moueix in Bordeaux, Emiliana Organic Vineyards in Chile, and Eisele Vineyard in Napa before joining Hamel in 2020.

Their 2020 Hamel Family Wines Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, which I scored 91 points, immediately caught my attention, tasting more like a white Burgundy than a California Sauvignon Blanc – buttery with excellent minerality and structure. I was impressed enough to purchase some bottles for my cellar.

Among their reds, the 2017 Hamel Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Nuns Canyon from Moon Mountain District, earning 91 points from me, was the clear standout – deep purple in color with balanced light tannins and an elegant approach that favored finesse over power.

We also sampled their 2018 Hamel Family Wines Isthmus, a Bordeaux-style blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. With its purple color and herbaceous nose, this wine scored 88 points but wasn't quite in my wheelhouse, featuring an atypical profile with bitter notes I found challenging.

One interesting note: their 2019 Hamel Family Wines Grenache initially didn't impress me at the winery, scoring 88 points. However, later that evening when we opened a bottle of it with dessert at dinner, it had transformed completely with air, prompting me to raise its score to 90 points. It's a good reminder of why I shouldn't rush to judgment on young wines!

After speaking with Maura after the tasting, I discovered a remarkable coincidence that perfectly illustrates how small the wine world truly is – she had been friends and roommates with Alexa Boulton, who had hosted Dio and me during our memorable visit to Château Figeac in Saint-Émilion just months earlier! This unexpected connection between Sonoma and Bordeaux reminded me of why I love these wine journeys – they're as much about discovering the intricate web of relationships between the people who make these wines as they are about the wines themselves.

STARSCAPE VINEYARD WITH JOSEPH JEWELL

In the afternoon, we met with Adrian Manspeaker of Joseph Jewell at his charming tasting room.

After getting acquainted, Adrian invited us to follow him to the beautiful Starscape Vineyard for a truly memorable experience. Surrounded by vines under blue skies, we sampled his exceptional small-production wines right in the middle of the vineyard – a magical setting that enhanced our appreciation of each bottle.

His 2021 Joseph Jewell Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard, which I rated 91 points, was aged in concrete rather than oak, offering refreshing minerality – exactly what we needed on a scorching hot afternoon. But the star of the show was undoubtedly the 2019 Joseph Jewell Pinot Noir Martini Clone "Old Girls" Starscape Vineyard. This single-block Pinot showed beautiful balance, minerality, and red fruit notes, earning 93 points.

After our vineyard tasting, we returned to Adrian's tasting room where I purchased a bottle of this exceptional Pinot on the spot.

DINNER AT VALETTE

For dinner, we headed to Valette in Healdsburg, where we enjoyed the Joseph Jewell Pinot Noir we'd purchased earlier – a perfect pairing with the restaurant's inspired cuisine. This proved to be an excellent opportunity to further discuss the day's discoveries with our fellow cultivation team members while enjoying one of Healdsburg's finest dining establishments.

POOLSIDE DREAMS AT REEVE WINES

Tuesday morning started with Reeve Wines, where hosts Morgan Gray and Tayir Cuneo welcomed us to their beautiful tasting room. The property featured an enviable guest house and pool that immediately caught my attention. We began with their 2022 Reeve Wines Rosé of Pinot Noir Vecino Vineyard, a bright and acidic offering that scored 89 points. Their 2021 Reeve Wines Riesling Vonarburg Vineyard followed, showing pear, citrus, and orange notes but with a very sweet-tart profile that earned 88 points.

Next came the 2021 Reeve Wines Pinot Noir Thorn Ridge Vineyard from Sonoma Coast with its dark ruby color and fruity profile, scoring 89 points. The 2017 Reeve Wines Pinot Noir Kiser Vineyard Lower Block from Anderson Valley had been decanted that morning, displaying dark fruit and blackberry notes with resolved tannins for 90 points.

Their 2021 Reeve Wines Sangiovese Windsor Oaks Vineyard in the Chalk Hill AVA was my favorite of their lineup, scoring 91 points – medium ruby in color with a cherry-forward nose and palate that transported me straight to Tuscany.

WRESTLING WIND AT ENRIQUEZ ESTATE

By midday, we arrived at Enriquez Estate, where owner Cecilia Enriquez hosted our tasting at her Russian River Valley property. We jumped into a 4WD vehicle and traversed the vineyard to a shaded picnic table offering wonderful views of neighboring properties. Cecilia thoughtfully provided snack boxes – a lovely touch that complemented our tasting experience.

During our visit, Cecilia shared her fascinating origin story: what began as a family ski trip to Lake Tahoe morphed into a wine-tasting adventure in Sonoma County when snow conditions disappointed. A fateful dinner with a winery owner (who happened to have a real estate license) led to viewing a property in Petaluma. While her mother initially refused to even leave the car, Cecilia was ready to quit her Wells Fargo job to start a family wine business. By 2011, she had moved to Petaluma and immersed herself in learning farming and winemaking from Sonoma's best. Today, she lives on their 8.5-acre vineyard in Forestville, producing about 1,000 cases annually.

The blustery conditions made taking proper notes challenging, but we started with 2017 Enriquez Estate Winery Brisa, a Sauvignon Blanc with light gold color that was light and refreshing from its stainless steel aging, scoring 89 points.

Their 2019 Enriquez Estate Winery Muscat particularly impressed me with 90 points – it offered the sweet floral nose typical of the varietal but surprised with a dry palate. It was my first Sonoma Muscat, and it certainly won't be my last!

The 2019 Enriquez Estate Winery Tempranillo Rosé showed a light brown color with a somewhat sour profile that earned 88 points – not my favorite of the flight, though someone else in our group loved it. We moved on to the 2017 Enriquez Estate Winery Pinot Noir Reserve, which had spent five years in barrel. With its brownish-red color and port-like aromatics, this atypical Russian River Pinot showed strong alcohol and chocolate notes, scoring 88 points.

We finished with the 2016 Enriquez Estate Winery Tempranillo Gran Reserva, aged three years in wood. After 40 minutes open, this wine really came into its own, showing licorice and port-like aromatics that evolved nicely in the glass. I gave this wine 90 points, appreciating how it opened up throughout our visit.

WREN HOP'S STUNNING VISTAS AND PINOTS

Our Tuesday afternoon concluded at Wren Hop, where founder James McDonough and hospitality host Marisa McKenstock treated us to exceptional wines and one of the most breathtaking views of the trip.

We began with their 2022 Wren Hop Joker to the Thief, an almost transparent bronze/gold wine with melon notes that earned 91 points. Their 2021 Wren Hop Chardonnay Local Wisdom followed, showing bright, refreshing characteristics with light butter notes from 14 months in new French oak. This wine from old vines planted in 1969 scored 91 points for its creamy texture, and I decided to add a bottle to my collection.

I was also impressed enough by their 2019 Wren Hop Chardonnay Ritchie's Gold Russian River Valley to purchase one for my cellar.

The 2021 Wren Hop Pinot Noir Crushed & Broken from Russian River Valley was the standout, earning 92 points for its complex integrated tannins and what I can only describe as a "Pinot for Cab lovers." It performed beautifully at dinner that night alongside a NY strip steak, proving that food pairing magic doesn't always follow conventional wisdom. I couldn't resist adding this one to my purchases as well.

We finished with their 2021 Wren Hop Pinot Noir Code Red from Sonoma Coast, a dark ruby offering with blackberry aromas and blue-dark fruit flavors. Despite some tannic structure, it was quite nice, scoring 91 points.

At the end of our visit, we toured what would become their future tasting area and sky deck, making a mental note to return once this exciting addition was completed.

DINNER AT THE MATHESON

In the evening, we enjoyed dinner at The Matheson in Healdsburg, where we continued discussing the day's impressive lineup of wines while savoring innovative local cuisine. This was a perfect opportunity to compare notes with our cultivation team before our transition to Napa the following day.

CHATEAU MONTELENA DETOUR

Wednesday morning, we checked out of Montage and began our drive to Napa. En route, we made a quick detour to see the historic Chateau Montelena. While we didn't taste their wines during this brief stop, we couldn't resist the opportunity to view the stunning grounds and the iconic chateau that played such a pivotal role in California wine history through the famous 1976 "Judgment of Paris."

GEORGIA MEETS CALIFORNIA AT PHIFER PAVITT

By mid-morning, we arrived at Phifer Pavitt, where fellow Georgian Suzanne Phifer Pavitt and Darlyne Miller welcomed us warmly. There's something special about connecting with people from your home state who've followed their passion to California wine country.

We started outdoors with 2019 Phifer Pavitt Date Night from Sonoma County, a light bronze wine with melon notes that scored 89 points.

After a quick tour of the winery, we headed inside the “Eco-Barn”. We continued the tasting with the 2018 Phifer Pavitt Cabernet Sauvignon Date Night, which I scored 91 points, displayed beautiful black fruit notes and balanced tannins – more approachable than the 2017 Phifer Pavitt Cabernet Sauvignon Date Night (90 points) we tasted alongside it, but both showed the distinctive character that's made this Georgia-owned winery so successful in Napa. I decided to take home a bottle of the 2018.

We finished with the 2017 Phifer Pavitt Cabernet Sauvignon XROADS from Stags Leap District, which showed remarkably similar characteristics to their 2017 Date Night with its dark ruby-purple color and comparable profile, also earning 90 points.

Though they had never participated in the High Museum Wine Auction before, Darlyne had experience with another winery at the event. They had many thoughtful questions and suggestions about participation, and I feel strongly that the Georgia connection and our willingness to accommodate their meaningful ideas played a significant role in their decision to join the auction for the first time in 2024!

HEART BLOCK SHINES AT GAMBLE FAMILY

By early afternoon, we visited Gamble Family Vineyards, where hosts Francesca Carbello and Ana Gatto welcomed us.

I discovered what would become one of my favorite white wines of the entire trip – their 2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Heart Block from Yountville. Scoring 92 points, this wine captivated me with its light yellow color, lemon nose, and perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. I purchased some bottles, knowing this would be a wine I'd want to revisit at home.

We continued with the 2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Family Home from Oakville, which comes from vines close to the legendary Screaming Eagle vineyard. Opened the day before, this wine showed a dark ruby color with a very fragrant black fruit nose, earthy character, and somewhat dry but balanced tannins, earning 90 points.

Their 2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Cairo also impressed, earning 91 points for its distinctive black fruit character that makes Oakville such a sought-after appellation. I decided to add a bottle to my collection. We finished with 2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Mary Ann Red from Mt. Veeder, a Cabernet Franc-dominant blend named after Tom Gamble's mother. With its very dark ruby color and medium tannins, this nice wine scored 90 points. Owner Tom Gamble also dropped in near the conclusion of our tasting, adding a personal touch to the experience.

As we were heading to our car, we ran into Tom again outside, and he was nice enough to pose for a selfie with us – a perfect end to our visit.

CHECKING INTO ALILA ST. HELENA

In the late afternoon, we checked into the Alila St. Helena, a property we'd enjoyed so much on our previous trip that we specifically chose to stay there again. The serene setting and contemporary luxury provided the perfect respite between our packed days of tastings. We spent a lot of time just relaxing on our patio and if you check out this video, you’ll understand why - what amazing views!

DINNER AT LUCY RESTAURANT

Our Wednesday evening culminated with dinner at Lucy Restaurant and Bar in the Bardessono Hotel. This farm-to-table restaurant provided a wonderful backdrop for discussing the day's discoveries while enjoying locally sourced cuisine.

MARKHAM'S HISTORIC ST. HELENA DIGS

Thursday morning began outdoors at Markham's historic St. Helena tasting room, where our host Jacey provided a traditional Napa experience.

We started with the 2021 Markham Pinot Noir Rosé, which featured fruit from Oak Knoll. This oak-influenced rosé showed a light peach color with medium fruit and a slightly tannic profile that earned 89 points.

The 2020 Markham Sauvignon Blanc from Oak Knoll followed, displaying the influence of 8.5 months in oak with its French style. With a transparent yellow-pear color, watermelon aromatics, and a slightly bitter profile with good acidity, this wine scored 89 points.

Their 2020 Markham Chardonnay aged 10.5 months in new French oak presented a light yellow color with a light lemon nose, but its somewhat sour profile and lack of buttery character wasn't quite my style of Chardonnay, earning 88 points.

The 2018 Markham Petite Sirah St. Helena emerged as my clear favorite – dark ruby with raisin notes on the nose, beautiful acidity, and refined tannins. I scored this wine 92 points, making it the standout of the Markham tasting, and I purchased some bottles to take home.

We compared two merlots side by side: the 2018 Markham Merlot Yountville Estate showed a ruby color with dark rose aromatics but was quite tannic and mouth-drying, scoring 88 points, while the 2018 Markham Merlot Little Cannon Vineyard presented a darker ruby-purple color with brighter raspberry notes and lighter tannins, earning a more favorable 91 points.

The 2021 Markham Frenchman's Blend from Oak Knoll District impressed with its light gold color and intense melon aromatics and tangy palate, scoring 90 points. We concluded with the 2017 Markham Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Ranch, presenting a brownish-red color with pleasant black fruit aromatics and medium tannins – a good Cabernet that scored 89 points.

INTO THE AMULET CAVE FOR BARREL SAMPLES

By midday, we arrived at Amulet Estate for what would prove to be one of the most memorable experiences of our trip. Our visit began with an extensive cave tour led by winemaker Shawn Johnson. The impressive underground cellar featured long, arched tunnels with textured sand-colored walls where meticulously arranged oak barrels lined both sides of the corridors. The dramatic lighting highlighted the contrast between the red-banded barrels and the earth-toned surroundings.

After exploring the main barrel storage area, Shawn led us to an elegant tasting alcove carved right into the cave. This intimate space featured a stylish wooden table centered between two large oak casks, with flickering candles and carefully arranged bottles creating a warm, inviting atmosphere. The thoughtful design balanced rustic elements with sophisticated touches—the perfect setting for the exceptional wines we were about to taste.

We began with the 2020 Amulet Estate Chardonnay Platt Vineyard from Sonoma Coast, showing a white light bronze color and green melon aromatics. This oak-influenced wine delivered tangy acid and citrus notes, earning 90 points.

We then sampled a series of single-vineyard Cabernets, starting with the 2019 Amulet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Bale Mill Creek from St. Helena. Opened the day before, this organic wine showed a dark purple color with dark red fruit aromas and dry, mouth-drying tannins for 91 points.

The 2019 Amulet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Ranch followed, displaying a brighter nose than the Bale Mill and slightly darker color. Its mixed dark berry profile and acidic structure (3.5 pH according to Shawn) earned 91 points and would pair beautifully with food.

Their 2019 Amulet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III showcased the legendary status of this vineyard with blueberry and cherry notes backed by herbal complexity, earning 93 points from me. But it was their 2018 Amulet Estate Mockingbird Blue blend that truly stole the show – fragrant cinnamon aromas gave way to balanced black cherry flavors that earned 94 points and my highest score of the trip to that point. I couldn't resist purchasing a bottle of this exceptional blend.

In an unexpected honor, Shawn invited us to taste three different barrel samples of a new wine they were adding to their portfolio. When he asked which was our favorite, I'd like to think we had some involvement in their final selection, though we'll never know for sure. This behind-the-scenes glimpse into a winery's creative process was one of the most unique experiences of our wine journey.

MOUNTAIN MAGIC AT PRIDE

In the afternoon, we visited Pride Mountain, where hosts Jessica Baker and Stuart Bryan welcomed us to their spectacular mountaintop setting. What made this visit particularly unique was the property's location straddling the Napa/Sonoma county line – they even have a marker and brick line in the concrete showing this divide!

Our tasting experience was delightfully different as well, conducted "on-the-go" as we toured the cellar and winemaking facility with strategically placed bottles awaiting us at various points along the way. We began with their 2021 Pride Mountain Vineyards Chardonnay from Napa Carneros, showing a light amber color with green apple aromatics and ripe pear-apple flavors backed by good acidity with a tangy, sour profile that scored 90 points.

Next came their flagship merlot blend, the 2020 Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot, which had spent 20 months in oak. With its ruby color and medium tannins, this easy-drinking wine earned 90 points. The 2021 Pride Mountain Vineyards Syrah from Sonoma County followed, blended with a small amount of Viognier and aged 18 months in oak. Showing a brownish-red color with blue fruit notes and medium tannins, this crowd-pleaser earned 91 points and found its way into my purchase list.

We compared two of their Cabernets: the 2020 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 13% Petit Verdot showed a brownish-red color with bright raspberry notes and low tannins, scoring 90 points, while the 2019 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon containing just 1% Petit Verdot displayed a similar color but with darker fruit aromatics and medium tannins, earning 91 points.

We concluded our tour at a table in the shade for our final pours, taking in the spectacular views from this unique property.

A BORDEAUX INTERLUDE AT CHARTER OAK

For dinner, we dined at Charter Oak in St. Helena. I decided to give our tasting group a break from California wines, bringing along a 2003 Château Cos d'Estournel from my cellar, which the sommelier kindly decanted to remove sediment.

After days of young, primary California wines, this 20-year-old Bordeaux offered a fascinating counterpoint – still showing vibrant fruit but with the additional complexity that only time can provide. Scoring 96 points in my notes, this wine reminded everyone at the table why classic Bordeaux holds such a special place in wine history. My tasting companions seemed to appreciate the change of pace, and someone jokingly asked, "You brought your own wine with you to wine country? WTH?"

My response: "Yep... nothing like an aged Bordeaux after drinking a ton of young Cali cabs!"

After dinner, with no Ubers available, we took a lovely evening stroll back to our hotel at Alila St. Helena – a perfect way to end our day.

MOUNTAINTOP MAJESTY AT PAHLMEYER

Our final day kicked off in the morning with Pahlmeyer's tasting at Stagecoach Vineyard. Host Jill Snaroff welcomed us to this breathtaking setting, which required a lengthy drive up winding mountain roads to reach. This historic vineyard, steeped in Napa lore, rewarded our journey with some of the most spectacular panoramic views of the valley I've ever experienced – we couldn't stop taking photos and video of the incredible landscape spread out below us.

We started with the 2021 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay Napa Valley, which had been aged in 100% new oak. With its light yellow color and fragrant, ripe pear aromatics, this wine showed remarkable acidity and some butter notes, creating a mouth-coating, tangy experience with more structure than most Chardonnays I've encountered. I scored it 90 points.

Their 2019 Pahlmeyer Merlot was a revelation – dark fruit flavors with velvety mouthfeel and a thick, mineral-driven, earthy character that reminded me why Merlot deserves more respect than it often receives. I scored this wine 93 points and would have purchased some had they not been sold out (they were pre-selling the 2021 vintage).

Their 2019 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red Bordeaux-style blend, comprising 78% Cabernet, from the same vintage matched its quality with additional complexity. Slightly darker than the Merlot, it displayed bell pepper and dark fruit aromatics with a remarkably layered profile, showcasing earthy mushroom notes and somewhat tannic structure. This excellent wine also earned 93 points from me.

ARROW&BRANCH DELIVERS THE TRIP'S TOP WINE

In the early afternoon, we visited Arrow&Branch, hosted by Michael Ploetz. Our experience began in the main house where Michael welcomed us with a pour of their 2022 Arrow&Branch Rosé of Cabernet Franc. With its light peach color, orange aromatics and pleasant tanginess on the palate, this refreshing wine scored 90 points in my notes – a perfect start to our visit.

Michael then led us outside to tour the estate vineyard, where we walked among their Cabernet Franc vines while enjoying our next pour, their 2022 Arrow&Branch Sauvignon Blanc. Aged in both stainless steel and oak, this wine showed a light yellow color with subdued pear and melon-grapefruit aromatics, delivering an acidic, citrusy palate that earned 90 points.

During our vineyard walk, we also viewed their beautiful entertaining area, which Michael mentioned could potentially be part of a future auction lot for the High Museum.

Returning to the owner's lovely home, we settled at the dining room table to continue our tasting. Michael shared the fascinating story of how Steve Contursi, a prominent coin dealer with a passion for Bordeaux wines, purchased this Napa property and decided to start making his own wines.

Moving to reds, we sampled the 2019 Arrow&Branch Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label, a blend of 95% Cabernet and 5% Merlot. Decanted and poured an hour before our arrival, this medium ruby wine showed fresh dark fruit aromatics with medium tannins and a dark red fruit palate, scoring 92 points.

The 2019 Arrow&Branch Right Bank Blend, predominantly Cabernet Franc, had also been decanted and poured an hour before we arrived. This wine displayed a brighter, lighter nose than the Black Label with a relatively smooth palate despite medium-high tannins, earning 93 points – I preferred this to the Black Label.

Then came the biggest surprise of the trip – their 2019 Arrow&Branch Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard. Scoring an impressive 95 points, the fragrant nose gave way to layers of flavor with perfectly integrated tannins. I didn't hesitate to secure some bottles for my cellar. What made this such a shock was that while I always respect quality wherever I find it, Benoit Touquette (of Fait-Main) has consistently been my favorite winemaker, with his Las Piedras standing as my perennial favorite American wine. Yet here was the Dr. Crane from Arrow&Branch, completely captivating me and establishing itself as the standout wine of the entire journey.

We concluded with their 2019 Arrow&Branch Cabernet Sauvignon Vine Hill Ranch from Oakville, which had been decanted and poured an hour before our arrival. With its dark ruby color and darker, cooler fruit aromatics compared to the Dr. Crane, this beautifully balanced wine with fine tannins showed remarkable elegance, earning 94 points.

FAIT-MAIN: PERFECTING PRONUNCIATION AND CABERNET

In the late afternoon, while Dio enjoyed a well-deserved spa afternoon at Alila, I made a solo visit to Fait-Main, a name I finally learned to properly pronounce as "Fay Maah," though they've embraced the nickname "Fat Man" due to how often people mispronounce it. This was actually an unofficial addition I arranged myself to cap off our journey, driven by my long-standing appreciation for Benoit Touquette's winemaking. Tasting with Nikita Touquette in St. Helena, I experienced the pinnacle of winemaker Benoit Touquette's craft.

I let Nikita know that I was in Napa because of the High Museum Wine Auction. She expressed considerable interest in potential future participation, so I shared all about the event and its mission. We agreed to keep in touch regarding not only their possible participation but also potential Atlanta-based winemaker tastings and dinners.

I began with the 2021 Fait-Main Cabernet Sauvignon, a Coravin pour from a bottle opened prior to my arrival. With its round dark ruby color and fragrant aromatics, this wine showed blue fruit character and medium tannins with light fruit expression, earning 92 points.

Next came the 2021 Fait-Main Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper from Oakville, another Coravin pour opened before my arrival. Darker ruby in color with a deeper, darker nose than the standard Cabernet, this wine featured more refined tannins and dark cherry notes on the palate, scoring 93 points.

The 2021 Fait-Main Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Las Piedras captivated me with its bright red fruit, pronounced minerality, and impeccable balance, earning 94 points. While this normally would have been my highest-rated wine of the trip, the surprising excellence of the Arrow&Branch Dr. Crane had already claimed that title – a testament to how unpredictable and exciting wine exploration can be. I purchased some bottles of this Las Piedras in 750ml format and a magnum for special occasions.

Close behind was their inaugural 2021 Fait-Main Cabernet Sauvignon Tierra Roja Vineyard – more masculine and powerful but equally impressive at 94 points. Nikita mentioned this wine was more masculine than the Las Piedras, and while I might not have noted that characteristic independently, it certainly showed impressive power with its dark ruby-red color, red fruit profile, and good minerality. Its balanced but slightly more tannic structure compared to the Las Piedras made this my second favorite of the four poured that day. I purchased a magnum of this exciting new addition to their portfolio.

THE VERDICT: STANDOUTS FROM A STELLAR LINEUP

After five days, fourteen wineries, and dozens of exceptional wines, several stood apart from the rest. The Arrow&Branch Beckstoffer Dr. Crane emerged as the wine of the trip and my biggest surprise, edging out my usual favorite from Benoit Touquette. The Amulet Estate Mockingbird Blue impressed with its masterfully crafted blend and distinctive character. The Fait-Main Beckstoffer Las Piedras continued its tradition of excellence as what has long been my favorite Napa Cabernet. The new Fait-Main Tierra Roja Vineyard made an impressive debut. And of course, the aged Château Cos d'Estournel proved that sometimes bringing your own Bordeaux to wine country is the perfect complement to all those young California beauties.

Beyond the wines themselves, this trip reminded me of what makes these cultivation journeys so special – the people, the stories, and the ever-deepening appreciation for the craft of winemaking. From Adrian Manspeaker's focused approach at Joseph Jewell to Suzanne Phifer Pavitt's Georgian hospitality transplanted to Napa soil, these personal connections enrich every sip.

As we flew home to Atlanta, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to represent the High Museum on this journey. Not only did we strengthen relationships with wineries for the upcoming auction, but we also discovered new producers and wines that will undoubtedly enhance next year's event.

What struck me most was how not planning our visits ourselves - as we had on our previous trips - unexpectedly made this journey so unique. Walking into each tasting without knowing exactly what to expect created a sense of discovery that added an extra dimension to our experience. It was a refreshing change to simply show up and be surprised, and it turned out to be an absolute blast. Sometimes the best adventures are the ones you don't plan yourself! Until next time, wine country!

For those interested in my detailed tasting notes on all wines mentioned, you can find them here:

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