When Treasured Bottles Unite: My First Sommelier Guild Paulée

It's often said that the best wine experiences aren't about what's in the bottle, but who you're sharing it with. After attending my first official Paulée with the Sommelier Guild of Atlanta, I can wholeheartedly confirm this to be true. This annual celebration, inspired by the traditional Burgundian harvest festivities, proved to be an evening of remarkable wines, delicious Indonesian cuisine, and the kind of camaraderie that only develops when passionate wine lovers gather to share their prized bottles.

THE TRADITION MEETS THE GUILD

For those unfamiliar with the concept, a Paulée is a Burgundian celebration held at the end of grape harvest. Once widespread throughout France, it now primarily refers to festivities in Meursault. The Guild's version has evolved into what they aptly describe as an "oenophilic banquet" - an extravagant dinner where members bring bottles from their personal collections to share with fellow enthusiasts.

The setting for this year's gathering was WIN Gastrobar in Buckhead, an Indonesian restaurant offering a perfect backdrop for both the official business portion of the evening and the main event - sharing exceptional wines around the table.

BUSINESS BEFORE PLEASURE

As this was my first Paulée since joining the Guild (you can read about my introduction to the group in my earlier post), I wasn't entirely sure what to expect. The evening began with a quick review of the Guild's finances and some elections, efficiently handled so we could move on to the main attractions - the food and wine.

AN EMBARRASSMENT OF RICHES

Having been advised this was a BYOB affair where members share special bottles, I carefully selected two wines from my collection. The first was a 2009 Château Figeac from Saint-Émilion, which I'd recently enjoyed at the château itself during our Bordeaux trip (you can read about that memorable visit here). I decanted it about an hour before sharing to manage its sediment.

My second contribution was something more unusual - a 2021 Étienne Calsac Coteaux Champenois Photogramme, a still wine from Champagne made from the rare Petit Meslier grape. I'd purchased this bottle in Paris near the end of our 40-day European adventure and thought the Guild members might appreciate trying something so uncommon.

Little did I know the treasures that would emerge from other members' collections. As we worked our way through WIN's Indonesian specialties - from Crispy Corn Fritters (Bakwan Jagung) to Beef Rendang - extraordinary bottles began appearing around the table.

THE UNUSUAL SUSPECTS

The lineup was nothing short of spectacular:

The 2009 Château Figeac (which I scored 94 points) showed beautifully despite the relatively short decant, demonstrating why this Saint-Émilion Grand Cru producer holds such a revered place in Bordeaux history.

Perhaps the biggest surprise of the evening was when someone casually produced a 1982 Château Sociando-Mallet. At 41 years old, this mature Haut-Médoc was drinking superbly, offering a masterclass in well-aged Bordeaux. I gave it 94 points and couldn't help but marvel at the generosity of sharing such a bottle.

Not to be outdone, another member contributed a 2000 Clos du Marquis from Saint-Julien, which earned 93 points from me for its exceptional balance and complexity.

My introduction to properly aged Port came in the form of a 1977 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto, which promptly earned 96 points and my "Wine of the Night" designation. This eye-opening experience finally helped me understand why Port enthusiasts speak so reverently about aged examples of this fortified wine.

Among the whites, a 2001 Karl Erbes Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett from Germany's Mosel region stood out, earning 94 points for its perfect balance of sweetness and acidity.

My own contribution of the Coteaux Champenois was certainly the most conversation-provoking bottle. Scoring it 90 points, I noted it was "super interesting and super tart," with an almost beer-like quality reminiscent of a Saison - "refreshing" but admittedly not entirely to my personal taste.

LEARNING FROM MISTAKES

This being my first Paulée, I made the rookie mistake of driving myself, which limited my ability to fully indulge in all the magnificent wines being shared. Next year, I'll definitely arrange alternative transportation so I can fully appreciate the remarkable bottles that appear at this annual tradition.

THE FINAL VERDICT

What struck me most about this evening wasn't just the exceptional quality of wines being poured, but the spirit in which they were shared. There was no pretension, no competition - just genuine enthusiasm and the joy of experiencing these bottles together.

The Paulée perfectly encapsulates what I love about wine culture: its ability to bring people together, create memorable experiences, and foster connections that transcend the liquid in our glasses. As we concluded the evening, surrounded by empty bottles that collectively represented centuries of winemaking tradition, I couldn't help but feel grateful to be part of this community.

Until next year's Paulée, I'll be contemplating which treasures from my cellar might contribute to making that gathering equally special.

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