From Paris to Pauillac: The Beginning of Our Grand Bordeaux Adventure

PLANNING A WINE LOVER'S DREAM TRIP

Sometimes the most extraordinary wine journeys begin with seemingly unrelated events. In November 2022, my wife Dio and I received an invitation to join the Atlanta High Museum Director's Circle Trip to Copenhagen planned for June 2023. The timing of this art-focused adventure sparked an idea - why not also finally make our long-delayed dream of exploring Bordeaux's legendary wine estates a reality?

This wasn't just any hastily planned wine trip. The seeds had been planted years earlier, back in 2018, when I discovered Michel Thibault Wine through wine-searcher while hunting for specific Bordeaux vintages. What began as simple online wine purchases evolved into lengthy phone conversations about wine with Michel himself. Over the years, he became my trusted source not just for remarkable Bordeaux finds, but also as Dio's go-to resource when selecting birthday and Christmas wines for me.

In early 2020, we were in the planning stages of a week-long Bordeaux tour with Michel and his wife Marla for that fall. When the pandemic hit, those plans were put on hold before we could finalize anything. But relationships, like great wine, certainly improve with time. When we reached out to Michel in late 2022 about finally making this trip happen, everything aligned perfectly. We would be their only guests that spring, transforming what would typically be a small group tour into a private experience.

When Michel asked about which châteaux I wanted to visit, I made an unusual choice for an Old World wine enthusiast - I let him decide. After years of reading his "View from the Road" newsletters and seeing his deep connections in Bordeaux, I trusted his judgment completely. My only requests? Include a few of the legendary names but also some under-the-radar gems. I wanted to experience the full spectrum of what Bordeaux had to offer.

The itinerary he crafted exceeded our wildest expectations. From First Growths to biodynamic innovators, from historic cellars to cutting-edge winemaking facilities - every day promised new discoveries. When we realized this trip could also be combined with our Copenhagen plans into one grand European adventure, everything fell into place. After ensuring I could maintain connectivity and productivity while working remotely from Europe for a few weeks in the middle of the 40-day journey, and confirming my mom could watch our dogs, our extended European odyssey was set in motion!

PARIS PRELUDE

We began our journey in May 2023 in Paris, where Dio had family she wanted me to finally meet. Our base was Hotel Le Ballu in Montmartre, chosen for its proximity to her relatives. Between family gatherings, we immersed ourselves in the city's incredible art scene. Here are just a few highlights of our artistic exploration:

The Musée d'Orsay's magnificent collection, housed in a former railway station, provided our first encounters.

We continued our art journey at the Musée national Picasso-Paris, where the master's works took on new meaning in the intimate setting of the Hôtel Salé.

The Carnavalet Museum offered a fascinating journey through Paris's history, its recently renovated rooms telling the city's story through art and artifacts. We were delighted to discover Fouquet's Jewelry Shop by Alphonse Mucha inside this museum. Having fallen in love with Mucha's work during our honeymoon in Prague, walking into a space he designed was an unexpected surprise!

Our final evening in Paris proved the perfect bridge to our upcoming wine adventures. At L’Ivress wine bar, joined by Dio's Parisian cousin, and her brother and his fiancee, we enjoyed our last Parisian meal. This hip local spot, recommended by her cousin, offered a perfect blend of wine and ambiance that set the stage for our Bordeaux journey ahead.

THE ROUTE DES CHÂTEAUX BECKONS

The next morning, we boarded our Eurail train from Paris Montparnasse to Bordeaux St Jean, excitement building with each passing mile. We sent this pic via text to let Michel and Marla know we were on the way!

One of the many thoughtful aspects of Michel and Marla's tour planning was that they had arranged all transportation for the week once we arrived in Bordeaux. They met us right at the train station, having rented a car to drive us to all wine tastings and restaurants throughout our stay. This meant we could fully immerse ourselves in the wine experience without worrying about logistics - we just needed to meet them in the hotel lobby each morning.

After checking into the Hotel De Seze in the town of Bordeaux, our first stop was the Cité du Vin, Bordeaux's modern temple to wine culture. This architectural marvel, with its swirling glass facade meant to evoke wine moving in a glass, offered the perfect introduction to the region we were about to explore in depth.

That evening, we experienced our first taste of Bordelais cuisine at La Tupina. Michel, who would select all our wines at restaurants throughout the week, chose the 2018 Château Phélan Ségur Frank Phelan. This began what would become a wonderful pattern - Michel consistently selected wines from châteaux we wouldn't be visiting, maximizing our exposure to different Bordeaux producers. This second wine from Chateau Phélan Ségur proved an excellent taste of St. Estèphe terroir, its pleasant character and good structure pairing beautifully with both my selections and Dio's poulet with fries. While there was noticeable sediment, the wine showed well, earning a solid 90 points from me.

A LEGENDARY DRIVE

The next morning brought what would become one of the most memorable drives of my wine journey. As we set out on the D2 (the famous Route des Châteaux), despite the morning's gray skies, my expectations were high - nothing could dampen my excitement for what lay ahead. What followed was a revelation - over the course of our drive, we would pass no fewer than 18 legendary wine estates, many of which I had only known from labels in my cellar.

Taking the D2 just left of the Gironde, we began our journey through some of the world's most famous wine villages: Margaux, St. Julien, and Pauillac. Want to experience what it's like driving past some of the world's most famous wine estates? Here's a video from our journey along the Route des Châteaux:

The first notable property we passed was Prieuré Lichine, which Michel noted had impressed him on recent visits. Then Château Kirwan, followed by Château d'Issan (which we'd be visiting the next day). Michel explained that d'Issan consistently offers exceptional value, given its prime location between Château Palmer and Château Margaux, with similar terroir but at a fraction of the price.

We passed Brane Cantenac, then Cantenac Brown, before coming upon Château Palmer (above) with its distinctive roof. Marla explained that Palmer was currently under renovation and fully committed to biodynamic practices. Rauzan-Ségla appeared next, where Michel detailed Chanel's spectacular renovation work.

Then came the moment that connected directly to my wine journey's beginning - an avenue of plane trees leading to the neoclassical facade of Château Margaux. This First Growth estate, whose 1982 vintage had sparked my passion for fine wine, commanded attention even from a distance.

The village of Margaux itself presented an interesting contrast - quiet and somewhat subdued except during school hours, as Michel noted. Through the Central Médoc, we saw numerous Cru Bourgeois properties before reaching the village of Arcins, home to Le Lion d'Or, the Médoc's most famous restaurant among wine professionals. Michel mentioned we'd be dining there the following day.

Entering St. Julien brought us past Château Beychevelle, where Marla shared the fascinating story behind their dragon ship logo we saw as we passed the sign in front of the property. The Duke of Épernon's authority to charge tolls on passing ships, requiring them to lower their sails in tribute, led to this enduring symbol. Years later, this dragon imagery would prove particularly appealing to Chinese wine collectors, leading to significant investment and quality improvements at the estate.

We passed Château Gloria (one of my favorites), Branaire-Ducru (which Michel praised for its fabulous wines), and the neighboring estates of Léoville Barton and Langoa Barton. Michel mentioned that our upcoming visit tomorrow to the Barton property would be a first for him and Marla as well, particularly exciting given their brand new cellar.

The "super serious properties," as Michel described them, came next. Michel pointed out Château Léoville Poyferre, explaining how they have pipes running under the road to their winemaking facilities. Across the way stood Léoville Las Cases, which Michel suggested would likely be classified as a First Growth if the 1855 classification were redone today. This led to an engaging discussion about the 2005 and 2015 Léoville Las Cases vintages resting in my cellar, with Michel suggesting the '05 would be drinking beautifully now.

Marla then explained how the original Léoville estate had been divided through marriage, creating these distinct properties we see today. As we approached Pauillac, we passed the historic rivals Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Château Pichon Baron - another example of how family divisions shaped Bordeaux's wine landscape.

We actually stopped a few minutes to admire Pichon Baron, which Michel considers possibly the most beautiful property in all of Bordeaux. He pointed out how Opus One's California cellar was modeled after this architectural marvel, though he noted the interior retains an appealingly old-world character. From this vantage point, we could spot Château Latour in the distance.

Passing through the village of Bages, we saw Château Lynch-Bages, and then caught sight of Pontet-Canet, where we would be spending our afternoon. By now, the morning's gray skies had given way to sunshine - a fitting metaphor for how this drive had illuminated the rich tapestry of Bordeaux's wine culture.

MOUTON ROTHSCHILD: A FIRST GROWTH FIRST

There was something poetically fitting about Château Mouton Rothschild being our first tasting in Bordeaux. In 2017, I'd purchased my first First Growth wine - a bottle of 2005 Château Mouton Rothschild that is still sitting in my cellar - yet I'd never actually tasted their wines. As we drove up, Marla shared fascinating stories about the Rothschild family. She explained that the name of this Jewish family means "red shield," originating in Frankfurt. The family patriarch, Mayer Amschel Rothschild, sent his sons to establish branches in various cities such as London, Paris, Vienna, and Naples. Today, only the London and Paris branches remain, with the French side owning Mouton Rothschild. The Rothschild crest, featuring five arrows, has become an iconic symbol representing the five sons who established these banking dynasties.

As we walked towards the lobby, Marla pointed out the Rothschild family house in the background, noting that while the family primarily lives in Paris, they frequently visit the estate. Our host, Marie, greeted us in the lobby.

Soon, we departed for a vineyard tour. The property's manicured grounds featured perfectly sculpted topiaries lining pristine gravel pathways, creating an elegant approach to the vineyards. Beyond the ornamental gardens, rows of vines stretched across the rocky terrain - a stark reminder that beneath the estate's polished exterior lies the serious business of making world-class wine.

After exploring the grounds, we entered the winery's production facilities, where traditional winemaking meets cutting-edge technology. We learned that in recent years, the winery underwent a complete renovation under the guidance of noted architects and designers. The renovations included a state-of-the-art gravity-fed vinification cellar, featuring an innovative design element - windows installed in the large oak fermentation vats that allow winemakers to monitor the entire fermentation process from top to bottom. Though we couldn't get a closer look that day, we enjoyed watching the team at work with their 2021 vintage, getting a rare glimpse into the behind-the-scenes operations of one of Bordeaux's most prestigious estates.

The museum portion of our tour, where photography wasn't permitted, proved particularly captivating. The Label Room documented the estate's unique artistic legacy. During our drive, we'd learned about the original 1924 art deco label featuring a sheep's head with five arrows emerging from a red sun, symbolizing the five Rothschild sons. Now we could see how this artistic tradition evolved through the decades, with works from masters like Picasso, Dali, and Chagall gracing their bottles. While we weren't allowed to take photos in the museum, you can get a sense of the label gallery's impressive scope here.

The family's private art collection proved equally impressive. We saw a rug with a fascinating provenance - Queen Victoria had given it to a staff member after receiving it from Napoleon III, and it eventually found its way to the Rothschilds. After being displayed in their home for years, it was moved to the museum when the Queen Mother expressed concern about people walking on it. We also saw the small glass figure that inspired the wine label of Château d'Armailhac, another Rothschild property. The collection's array of Chinese porcelain and artifacts from the Sung, Ming, and Qing Dynasties demonstrated the family's broad artistic interests.

The culmination of our production facility tour brought us to Mouton's awe-inspiring Great Barrel Hall. The sheer scale was breathtaking - row upon row of oak barrels stretched into the distance, the parallel lines seeming to converge at the far end of this vast chamber. Though we hadn't managed to photograph the Rothschild crest during our earlier discussions of the five arrows representing the family's banking dynasties, we found it here, prominently displayed at the end of the hall. But what truly caught our attention was the text Marie pointed out on Mouton's bottles - "TOUTE LA RÉCOLTE MISE EN BOUTEILLES AU CHÂTEAU" (The entire harvest bottled at the château). This wasn't just marketing text - it represented a revolutionary change in Bordeaux wine production when implemented in the 1920s. While other châteaux had done some estate bottling before, Mouton was the first to insist that their entire production be bottled at the estate, ensuring complete control over their wine from grape to bottle. This commitment to quality control, once considered unusual in Bordeaux, would eventually become standard practice among top estates. Looking around this immense hall, it became clear why such a massive space was necessary - if you're going to bottle and age your entire production at the château, you need an equally ambitious space to house it all.

Finally, we reached the tasting room. Our first wine was the 2014 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild, which showed beautifully after an hour of air. Very balanced and fruity with moderate tannins, it earned 92 points from me, though I suspect it will improve further with age. Both Dio and I were particularly taken with its art deco label, featuring Jean Carlu's dynamic design that perfectly balances sensual shapes with clean geometries.

The 2015 Château Mouton Rothschild demonstrated why it's considered one of the world's greatest wines. Even with just an hour of air, the complexity and quality difference between it and the second wine was evident. While I scored it 94 points today, I could easily see this developing into a 96-97 point wine with proper aging.

LUNCH AT RESTAURANT SAINT-JULIEN

Following our morning at Mouton, we enjoyed lunch at Restaurant Saint-Julien. Dio started with shrimp cassolette which she declared was "superb, tasty, and comfy. It was so good, I had to grab two pieces of bread to wipe the bowl." We both then had the beef filet, which was just okay. Dio finished with a lemon tart, but maintained that the shrimp was the highlight - delicate, warm, and perfectly balanced in flavor.

Michel selected the 2016 Les Fiefs de Lagrange, which earned 92 points from me. This second wine of Château Lagrange paired beautifully with the beef, and Fiefs continues to be one of my favorite second wines. Comparing it with the 2014 Le Petit Mouton we'd tasted earlier that morning, I scored them the same - either this is an exceptional value, or Le Petit Mouton might be a bit overpriced!

PONTET-CANET: BIODYNAMICS IN ACTION

Our afternoon visit to Château Pontet-Canet offered a fascinating contrast to the morning's experience. Unlike Mouton, I have tried their wines, having enjoyed several different vintages over the years. The property's unique approach to winemaking would prove just as intriguing as the wine itself.

Our guide Violaine Figon immediately immersed us in the estate's philosophy. During our vineyard tour, we witnessed two horses watering the fields - not for show, but as essential workers of the estate. Their use prevents soil compression, allowing oxygen to better penetrate the earth and create healthier vine roots.

The estate's commitment to biodynamic farming began experimentally in 2004 with 14 hectares. By 2005, they had converted the entire estate, though 2007 brought challenges when mildew pressure forced them to use conventional sprays. After regaining organic status three years later, they've maintained their biodynamic practices across all 80 hectares.

Dio particularly connected with the horses, and we spent extra time in the stables meeting these magnificent Percherons. They were primarily white, save for one black horse, and their impressive size was matched by their gentle demeanor.

In the courtyard, Dio was immediately struck by how the entire property seemed to radiate vitality. "You could really feel how happy the land was," she noted, pointing out the lemon and orange trees surrounding the courtyard, the abundance of roses, and the butterflies fluttering about. We examined the specialized tools created by the estate's mechanics specifically for biodynamic treatments using horse power. These machines generate only 500 grams of pressure per square centimeter - four times less than a typical tractor's 2000 grams.

The tisanerie proved to be one of the most fascinating stops on our tour. This building, dedicated to producing biodynamic preparations, housed an array of ingenious equipment. We saw boxes of cow horns waiting to be filled with manure and buried in the vineyard for six months - a key component of biodynamic farming. To handle their significant scale, they've developed custom equipment, including an apparatus for automatically filling the horns.

The property's commitment to natural processes extends to their water treatment. A series of stone waterfalls creates "dynamized" water through vortex action. The tisanerie's drawers contained various dried preparations - chamomile, dandelion, and others - creating an aromatic atmosphere reminiscent of a high-end tea room.

Next we visited their vat room, where we saw their unique concrete vats. Made of concrete and finished with soil from their own vineyard to ensure "the terroir is always around the grapes," these custom-built vats demonstrate the estate's commitment to maintaining a connection with their land throughout the entire winemaking process. We also saw their custom-built concrete amphora, similarly finished with soil from the vineyard.

In the sorting area, we saw their dedication to minimizing artificial influences. Everything is wood and stone, with minimal metal to avoid static electricity. They use only 12-volt LED lighting, and all destemming is done by hand. The focus on manual processes and natural materials reflects their philosophy that great wine begins with minimal intervention.

The barrel room led to their cave, where that characteristic cellar mold created not just an aroma but an atmosphere. Their library of wines stretched back decades, testament to the estate's history and evolution.

Finally, we arrived at the tasting room. We were presented with the 2014 Château Pontet-Canet, a vintage I hadn't tried before, served from a 375ml bottle. It showed beautifully with soft tannins and elegant structure, earning 94 points from me. What struck me most was its approachability - while it may continue to improve for a few more years, it's drinking wonderfully now. Dio preferred this wine to the Mouton we'd tasted earlier, noting its harmonious character and lack of tannic aftertaste.

THE EVENING WINDS DOWN

As day turned to night, Michel and I made our way to Aux Quatre Coins du Vin, where we enjoyed several wines including the 2019 Aline Beauné Montagny Blanc. Light and refreshing, it proved the perfect way to conclude our first full day of tastings, earning 90 points from me. Michel's thoughtful wine selection once again introduced me to something new and delightful.

TWO LEGENDARY ESTATES: LESSONS IN TRADITION

Reflecting on our first full day in Bordeaux and these two world-class estates, I was struck by the contrasts - from First Growth grandeur to biodynamic innovation, from historic traditions to forward-thinking practices. These exclusive properties, each among the most prestigious in Bordeaux, offered their own interpretations of excellence, setting the stage for what promised to be an extraordinary week of discoveries. But what really fascinated me were the fundamental differences between tasting at these elite châteaux versus my experiences in Napa and Sonoma.

The most noticeable difference was the tasting format itself. Michel explained that since tastings at properties of this caliber are primarily conducted for wine professionals - critics, négociants, and serious buyers - the protocol is quite different. You receive one modest pour of each wine, and it's expected that you'll spit rather than swallow. No additional pours are offered, and there are no accompanying cheese plates or charcuterie boards. This formal, professional approach makes perfect sense given the prestigious nature of these properties and Bordeaux's historic wine trade system.

That system, which I knew about but had never experienced firsthand, became much clearer during our visits to these legendary estates. Unlike American wineries, these top Bordeaux châteaux sell their entire production (minus what they reserve for tastings and their library) to négociants, who then distribute to wine shops and restaurants worldwide. There are no tasting room sales, no wine club sign-up forms, no direct-to-consumer shipping options. If you enjoy a wine you taste, you'll need to source it through traditional retail channels. This centuries-old approach allows these premier châteaux to focus solely on winemaking, leaving the business of sales and distribution to others.

In fact, our visits to these exclusive properties were structured around this traditional system. Michel had arranged our tastings through the négociants he works with, essentially allowing us to experience these prestigious estates as wine trade professionals rather than typical tourists. After each tasting, these négociants would contact Michel about purchasing allocations - a behind-the-scenes glimpse into how Bordeaux's fine wine trade actually operates at the highest levels.

THE JOURNEY CONTINUES

Stay tuned for my next post covering the rest of our tour of the Left Bank, including our visits to Château d'Issan, Château Léoville-Barton, Château Langoa Barton, and culminating at Château Smith Haut Lafitte.

For my complete tasting notes from this remarkable day, you can find them here: