Through the Heart of Médoc: Our Left Bank Journey Continues

If you've been following my Bordeaux journey, you know that my wife Dio and I arrived on May 21st, 2023 and spent our first day exploring the city of Bordeaux. The next day brought us two extraordinary tastings - Château Mouton Rothschild in the morning and Château Pontet-Canet in the afternoon (you can catch up on those adventures here.)

Now, I'll take you through our next two days on the Left Bank, which would prove equally memorable.

STARTING WITH A SURPRISE

Our morning at Hotel De Seze on May 23rd began with an unexpectedly off-putting breakfast - something wasn't quite right with the taste. Looking back, this minor hiccup would prove to be a harbinger of things to come, though not in the way we expected.

A LEGENDARY DETOUR

Running slightly ahead of schedule for our morning appointment at Château d'Issan in the Margaux appellation, Michel took advantage of the extra time to make a special stop. Given that the 1982 Château Margaux was the wine that started my entire fine wine journey (you can read about that pivotal moment in my Bio), he wanted to show us the legendary First Growth estate up close.

As we approached Château Margaux, we passed the church and cemetery that sit directly adjacent to the property. With a laugh, Marla joked that the wine isn't exceptional because of better compost from the cemetery! But her actual explanation proved far more interesting - the proximity of many châteaux to churches and cemeteries dates back to when clergy founded the early wineries. Already skilled in winemaking and choosing terroir, they naturally selected the best land for both religious buildings and vineyards.

Michel pointed out recent updates to the property, including their new cellar, while explaining that the main house sees limited use by its Greek owners. Though we couldn't visit today, just viewing the tree-lined approach to this historic First Growth felt special - a full-circle moment connecting back to where my wine journey began.

Check out this picture of the front Château Margaux and our drive down the tree-lined approach:

A mere five-minute drive from our impromptu Chateau Margaux visit brought us to our morning's destination - their next-door neighbor, Château d'Issan.

CHÂTEAU D'ISSAN: WHERE HISTORY MEETS MODERNITY

Like Mouton that we visited yesterday, d'Issan was a producer I was familiar with - I even had their 2015 vintage resting in my cellar back home - but had never tasted their wines. As we arrived for our morning appointment, the contrast with our previous day's visits was immediately apparent. Where Mouton and Pontet-Canet showcased different interpretations of classic Bordeaux grandeur, d'Issan presented something entirely different - a genuine medieval castle complete with a water-filled moat.

The property's romantic setting was enhanced by nature itself - birds chirping in the trees, ducks gliding across the moat's tranquil surface. We noticed a gardener tending to roses along the vineyard edges, leading Michel to explain a fascinating bit of viticultural wisdom: roses in vineyards serve as early warning systems for mildew, acting like "canaries in the coal mine" for vine health. These roses weren't just beautiful - they were functional tools in the winemaker's arsenal.

UNDERSTANDING D'ISSAN'S RANGE

Our guide began by asking if we were familiar with their more "confidential cuvées" - Moulin d'Issan and Le Haut-Médoc d'Issan. I admitted I wasn't, learning that these smaller production wines (60,000 bottles of Moulin and just 10,000 of Le Haut-Médoc) are typically only found in Bordeaux itself. For comparison, he noted their combined production of first and second wines (Château d'Issan and Blason d'Issan) totals around 200,000 bottles.

Pointing to vineyards on our right, he showed us where they produce Moulin d'Issan, their "third label" or Bordeaux Supérieur wine. These plots, closest to the Gironde estuary but outside the Margaux appellation, feature clayey limestone soils particularly suited to Merlot - a grape variety not commonly associated with Left Bank wines. The wine takes its name from the ruins of a 17th-century windmill still standing among the vines. The high percentage of Merlot in the blend gives this wine its characteristic elegance and silky texture.

Even more intriguing was learning about their first wine's evolution. Recently, owner Emmanuel Cruse received an unexpected opportunity when a neighboring property came up for sale. The owner, facing health issues, preferred selling to a local family rather than an anonymous corporation or investment fund. This allowed d'Issan to expand beyond its ancient stone walls for the first time, acquiring prime vineyard land between their property and Château Margaux. The acquisition included outstanding old vine parcels of both Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, adding new dimensions to their traditional Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend.

A FORTRESS OF WINE

Our guide led us toward the castle, explaining that its construction dates back to 1626 when d'Essenault, a nobleman and French Parliament member, undertook an extensive rebuilding program. Standing before the moated fortress, I found myself thinking about how many other Bordeaux estates claim deep historical roots, but few can match the tangible medieval heritage that d'Issan wears so naturally.

While we couldn't tour the historic castle's interior, the grounds themselves told a compelling story. Our guide mentioned that wines from these vineyards had supplied Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine's wedding in the 1100s - a remarkable connection to history that few wine estates can claim.

MODERN WINEMAKING IN MEDIEVAL SURROUNDINGS

Moving from history to modern production, we entered the vat house with its array of stainless steel tanks. Their second wine, the 2021 Blason d'Issan, was resting here awaiting bottling at the end of the month or in June. The space houses various sized vats, enabling precise parcel-by-parcel vinification.

THE ART OF RACKING

Our tour continued in the barrel room.

Our timing proved incredibly fortunate - we happened upon the cellar team performing traditional racking using a candle, a rare sight even for Michel and Marla.

Our guide explained the process as we watched: "Racking separates the clear wine from the sediments at the bottom of the barrel. We check the wine's clarity by pouring some in a glass and examining it by candlelight. When the wine begins to cloud, we tilt the barrel back and stop the process to clean out the sediments. This clarification happens every three months throughout aging - 12 months for Blason d'Issan and 18 months for Château d'Issan, meaning the grand vin undergoes six complete rackings during its maturation."

I noticed the variety of barrel producers represented in the cellar, and spotted a helpful indicator on one row marking it as the 2022 vintage. These little details showed meticulous barrel selection decisions and the organization required to manage such complex aging programs.

THE TASTING

Our tasting began with a side-by-side comparison of their first and second wines. The 2017 Château d'Issan Blason d'Issan showed its pedigree immediately. While already drinking beautifully and earning 90 points from me, I suspect a few more years in bottle could add another point to its score.

The 2017 Château d'Issan demonstrated why it's the estate's standard-bearer. More complex and powerful than its sibling, this wine earned 93 points from me today, though it clearly has more to reveal with additional aging.

Next came their "confidential" offerings. The 2016 Moulin d'Issan presented itself as an inviting, accessible wine that earned 89 points from me. While certainly more straightforward than the grand vin, it delivered quality well above its humble Bordeaux Supérieur classification.

The 2016 Le Haut-Médoc d'Issan edged slightly ahead of the Moulin with a 90-point showing. While also displaying primary characteristics, it offered an additional layer of complexity that demonstrated the team's consistent winemaking skill across their entire range.

The tasting room's display of soil samples and maps helped visualize the terroir differences we were experiencing in our glasses.

These wines impressed me so much that I've since added several vintages to my cellar.

LUNCH AT THE LEGENDARY LION D'OR

From d'Issan, we headed to Restaurant Le Lion d'Or, known throughout Médoc for its connection to the wine trade. Michel selected a 2017 Château Paveil de Luze from a 375ml bottle - a producer I wasn't familiar with before this lunch. Paired with my pigeon, the wine showed fully resolved tannins and earned 89 points from me.

BARTON FAMILY WINES: A STORY OF LEGACY

Our afternoon visit took us to one of Bordeaux's most historic producers. The Barton family owns two classified growths in St.-Julien - second-growth Château Léoville Barton and third-growth Château Langoa Barton - along with their more recently acquired property, Château Mauvesin Barton in Moulis.

During our drive, Michel and Marla shared some fascinating background about the property. The family is known for maintaining the only forest in the St.-Julien appellation within Léoville Barton's boundaries. While they could clear this land and plant more vines to increase production, they've chosen to preserve the forest, believing that maintaining a healthy ecosystem serves their wines better in the long run.

This visit held special meaning for me. Back in November 2019, having just learned that Château Léoville Barton's 2016 vintage had been named Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year, I decided to share a bottle of their 2009 vintage at our annual "It's fall y'all party" in Atlanta with my wine friends in attendance. One of my oldest, dearest friends was also there - someone who often reminds me that he is NOT a wine drinker and doesn't like wine (he's a mixed drink/beer guy). After trying the 2009 Léoville Barton, he declared "it changed me." While I'm not sure if it was quite the watershed moment my '82 Margaux was for me, he still considers it the best wine he's ever tasted.

INNOVATION MEETS TRADITION

Within minutes of arriving, we were greeted by Alexandra Nebolsine who led us directly to their brand new cuvier (vat room). This three-year project, delayed by COVID, had only reopened for visits that month - we were among the first to experience this stunning new space. If you are interested in pictures of the demolition and construction process go here and for a video of the renovation on the Barton Family Instagram, go here.

Alexandra's pride in showing us this facility was evident, and we felt fortunate to see it before its first harvest later that year. All the vats are made of oak and come in various sizes - allowing them to now separate both plots and grape varieties, which wasn't possible before. While Langoa and Léoville wines are made separately, they share this cuvier, with enough vats to enable complete selection for both.

Interestingly, the cuvier isn't air-conditioned - they rely on well-insulated walls and ceiling, along with the claustra (wooden slats that allow for natural ventilation) visible on the back windows, to maintain temperature control.

UNDERGROUND CONNECTIONS

The new cuvier connects to the newly renovated cellar on the other side of the property via an underground tunnel. At the tunnel's end, Alexandra pointed out a touching memorial to the younger brother of Lilian Barton Sartorius, the owner of Barton Family Wines, who was tragically lost in a car accident in the 90’s.

We then explored the recently renovated cellar basement. I even received permission to photograph the architect’s "Plan niveau bas chai" (lower level plan) of the very room we were standing in!

One of the tour's highlights was Alexandra's explanation of their traditional barrel cleaning and preservation method. This centuries-old technique serves two purposes: First, they burn sulfur inside recently emptied barrels to prevent mold and bacteria growth, allowing them to store empty barrels indefinitely. Additionally, as the sulfur dioxide soaks into the oak, it later seeps into the wine when the barrel is refilled, helping with preservation. Alexandra showed us the sulfur and metal hook attached to the "barrel bung" used in this process.

When you see "Contains Sulfites" on a wine bottle, it's likely because this method was used to clean the barrels.

Moving to the upper level of the cellar, we saw their wines aging peacefully. One row was clearly marked "Leo" (for Léoville Barton).

THE TASTING EXPERIENCE

We moved to a large room on the other side of the cellar for our tasting. Here's a quick 360 video of this impressive space:

My excitement peaked when I discovered we would be tasting barrel samples of the 2022 vintage! This would be my first experience tasting barrel samples in Bordeaux and my first taste of the 2022 vintage in this region, which we had learned during our previous visits was receiving considerable praise from critics. The bottles were clearly marked "ECHANTILLON" (sample, in English).

I also managed to capture some shots of the wine data sheets that were on the table:

THE TASTING NOTES

The 2022 Château Mauvesin Barton showed impressive early potential, earning 91 points from me. Though I was unfamiliar with this wine before today, it displayed beautiful strawberry notes on the nose and remarkable drinkability for its youth. The approachability this early in its life was striking.

The 2022 Château Langoa Barton demonstrated why it's consistently one of Bordeaux's most reliable performers, earning 93 points from me. More elegant than its sibling Léoville due to a higher percentage of Merlot in the blend, it showed tremendous promise. My wife Dio particularly favored this wine among the three we tasted.

The 2022 Château Léoville Barton proved to be my favorite of the trio, earning 95 points from me. More powerful than the Langoa thanks to its higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, it demonstrated why the 2022 vintage is generating such excitement. While drinking surprisingly well for its age, I believe this wine will need significant cellar time. With 10 years of proper aging, it could easily gain 2-3 more points.

GARDENS AND GOODBYES

After the tasting, Alexandra showed us their beautiful gardens, which Michel and Marla told us are considered among the finest in all of Bordeaux.

As we made our way back to where we parked, we met Damien Barton Sartorius' dog roaming the grounds (Damien is the General Manager of Barton Family Wines and son of owner Lilian Barton Sartorius). For dog lovers like us, meeting winery dogs is always a highlight!

While we didn't get to meet Damien during our tour, we spotted him coming outside to take a call and pet his dog as we were driving away. Thats a good dog!

This was also the first time we didn’t get a chance to tour the vineyards at a tasting…

THE DRIVE BACK TO BORDEAUX

As we passed Château Prieuré Lichine, Michel told us about this château's non-traditional history: like Château Margaux that we'd seen earlier, Château Prieuré Lichine sits next to its own church, another reminder of the deep historical connection between Bordeaux's religious institutions and its great wine estates. But unlike most Médoc properties, Prieuré Lichine embraced a more New World approach to wine tourism - their prominent signs welcoming visitors and direct-to-consumer sales would feel right at home in Napa or Sonoma.

Later during our drive back to the city of Bordeaux, I started inquiring about purchasing wines from some of the properties we'd visited. I decided that if Michel had wines from the properties available, I would be buy them from him. I first inquired about Pontet-Canet. Michel indicated he had various vintages of that producer in his warehouse back in Austin, so I "placed my order" by sending him an email to hold bottles of the 09, 10 and 16 vintages for me.

When I asked about the three Barton 2022's we had just tasted, I then learned that Michel was starting the process of retiring from selling wine and that this would also be one of his last Bordeaux tours. How bittersweet! Because of his impending retirement, he was no longer going to be participating in Bordeaux’s annual "En Primeur" campaign. However, he and Marla were in the process of transitioning their en primeur participation to Marla's daughter, Victoria. Victoria had actually been in Bordeaux earlier in the year for En Primeur to taste the 2022's. Through Victoria's website (Double P Imports), I was able to order a half case of the 2022 Langoa Barton right from my phone in the car! After returning to the US, I also purchased several 2022's of both Léoville Barton and Mauvesin Barton, the former from Victoria as well!

EXPLORING THE CITY OF BORDEAUX AND DINNER

Unfortunately, Dio started feeling even worse than she was that morning, so she decided to stay at the hotel while Michel, Marla and I went to dinner.

We walked from the hotel and I grabbed several pictures of the very charming city of Bordeaux, including the main drag on our way to dinner at Brasserie Bordelaise.

At dinner, the 2018 Fugue de Nénin, Michel's wine selection, showed impressive fruit and tannin structure, earning 91 points from me. Even after sitting in the glass for an hour, the tannins remained prominent. Another example of Michel introducing us to producers beyond our scheduled visits and this wine was good preview of the style of wines we would be tasting on the Right Bank in just a few days!

SMITH HAUT LAFITTE: OUR FINAL LEFT BANK VISIT

The morning of May 24th marked our last Left Bank appointment. Our plan was straightforward - tour and taste at Château Smith Haut Lafitte (SHL), then enjoy lunch at La Table du Lavoir before heading to the Right Bank. Since the restaurant is part of the adjacent Les Sources De Caudalie hotel complex on the property, we parked there first.

Walking from the hotel grounds to the winery, we encountered our first piece of art - the "protector of the vineyard," the Bronze Hare by Barry Flanagan. We would later appreciate the irony of this sculpture "protecting" the vineyard while its living counterparts are typically considered vineyard pests!

Shortly after entering the boutique to begin our tour, Dio started feeling much worse than she had at breakfast the day before. Michel, demonstrating the kind of connections that made him such an extraordinary guide, reached out directly to Daniel Cathiard, owner of Smith Haut Lafitte. Their connection went back decades to Michel's hometown near Uriage, a French spa town near popular ski resorts. The Cathiard family had started a small grocery store in Michel's village, and while Daniel was closer in age to Michel's brother (they often skied together), Michel had watched Daniel's meteoric rise. Daniel went on to join the legendary French alpine skiing team alongside Jean-Claude Killy, Adrien Duvillard, Charles Bozon, and Jean Vuarnet. It was during this time that Daniel met his future wife Florence, herself a world university ski champion. Interestingly, Daniel's love of wine began through Killy, who was known to enjoy a glass of Bordeaux to calm his nerves before big races. Within minutes of Michel's call, Daniel graciously arranged a room at Les Sources De Caudalie where Dio could rest while we toured the property.

THE PARKER PROTEST

Once we got Dio settled, our tour began with what might be my favorite piece of wine world art - a crumpled paper sculpture made from nickeled bronze by artist Wang Du. Our guide revealed its delightfully petty origin story: it represents a wadded-up page of Robert Parker's unfavorable review of an SHL wine that had particularly irritated Daniel Cathiard. While the sculpture existed for some time, it was kept private until Parker's retirement, when it was finally displayed publicly in the vineyard. If you've been following my blog, you know I appreciate this level of wine world drama!

CRAFTING THEIR OWN DESTINY

We then entered something increasingly rare in Bordeaux - a working estate cooperage. In fact, SHL is one of only a small handful of Bordeaux producers that make their own barrels. Built in the mid-90s, stepping inside felt like traveling back centuries. The space was filled with the evocative aromas of seasoned wood and open fire, while traditional barrel-making tools lined the walls. While we had learned all about barrel making during our visit to Caldwell Vineyard in Napa back in 2022 (you can read about that experience here), this was our first time actually seeing a cooperage in operation.

EXPLORING THE PROPERTY

For another perspective on the property, we climbed the tower above the cooperage. Our guide detailed which vineyards were planted to which varieties. From this vantage point, we could also spot Torsion II, a dramatic sculpture by Charles Hadcock installed to celebrate SHL's acclaimed 2009 vintage.

INSIDE THE WINEMAKING FACILITIES

Next, we visited their impressive barrel storage room.

Then we moved to the vat room.

The underground cellar tour followed, where we saw various pieces of art and even an example of how far down grapevine roots can grow.

INTO THE ORANGERIE

Daniel joined us in the orangerie for our tasting, and the warmth between him and Michel was evident as they caught up on mutual friends from their skiing days. The first surprise came when he revealed a secret stairway hidden beneath the floorboards. This led to his personal cellar, housing not just a library of SHL vintages but also his collection of historic bottles, including SHL wines dating back to 1878.

He pointed out an especially interesting 1879 bottle labeled both "Smith Haut Lafitte" and "Cafe Voisin" - a relic from the era before châteaux bottled their own wine. Back then, they would ship barrels to négociants, distributors, restaurants, etc. who would handle the bottling themselves. Daniel mentioned that Cafe Voisin still operates in Paris today, offering a tangible connection to wine history.

Among the cellar's artifacts was an antique bottle opener that seemed to tell its own stories of vintages past.

THE ART OF ILLUSION

One of the most striking features in the secret cellar was a piece called "2008 Well 3" by artist Chul Hyun Ahn - an optical illusion creating the appearance of a bottomless pit. Daniel couldn't resist a bit of wine industry humor, quipping that owning a winery was exactly like throwing money down a bottomless pit!

FAMILY MATTERS

This led to a delightful story about his daughter Mathilde. She had asked permission to use what most would consider waste products from winemaking - grape seeds, vine cuttings, and other byproducts. Using these materials, she and her husband created skincare and anti-aging products, founding the now-incredibly successful Caudalie brand. Daniel joked that when he and his daughter travel together, she always flies first class while he sits in the back!

His other daughter Alice, he mentioned, runs Les Sources de Caudalie, the hotel where Dio was currently resting. It was fascinating to see how Daniel and Florence, from their beginnings in the French ski world that Michel knew so well, had built an entire luxury lifestyle ecosystem around wine..

THE TASTING

Our tasting in the orangerie included red wine and a white wine - a first on this trip. Daniel was particularly enthusiastic about their white wines - in fact, he revealed that SHL's ability to produce both red and white wines was one of the key factors that attracted him and his wife to purchase the estate.

Our tasting in the orangerie began with the 2016 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Le Petit, which showed the quality you expect from a second wine at this level, earning 90 points from me. It demonstrated the estate's commitment to excellence across their range.

The first wine, the 2017 Château Smith Haut Lafitte, impressed with its balance and freshness, garnering 92 points from me. While already showing beautifully, this wine has significant potential for improvement - I could easily see it gaining 2-3 more points with proper aging.

Last in our tasting sequence, but notably our first white wine of the entire Bordeaux trip, came the 2019 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, which provided an excellent introduction to Bordeaux whites, earning 92 points. The complexity and balance showed why Daniel takes such pride in their white wine program.

INNOVATION IN THE SHADOWS

Daniel then told us about their "Stealth" winery, though we didn't get to see it in person. This innovative facility houses the world's first system for recycling CO2 emissions from fermentation, representing their commitment to eco-friendly viticulture. The facility operates on positive energy, using minimal resources while generating its own solar power. It also features rainwater recovery systems and a ground-coupled heat exchanger for natural cellar cooling. True to its name, it's hidden away in the woods, out of sight from the main winery.

From left to right: Brad Jensen, Michel Thibault, Ludovic Fradin, Marla Norman, Daniel Cathiard

After our tasting, we left the orangerie and made our way back to the boutique where we started our tour. We purchased several Caudalie products - perfect gifts for my mom who was back in Atlanta watching our dogs. I also noticed SHL had wine for sale directly for consumers! This was the first property we visited in Bordeaux where that was the case.

A FITTING FINALE

Our last Left Bank lunch at La Table du Lavoir proved the perfect way to conclude this portion of our journey. We dined outside, surrounded by the beautiful grounds of Les Sources de Caudalie. You can see the stunning outdoor seating area here. Michel's final Left Bank wine selection for us, the 2020 Château Olivier, showed remarkably well for its youth, earning 91 points from me while complementing our meal beautifully.

After lunch, we reunited with Dio, who had absolutely fallen in love with the accommodations at Les Sources de Caudalie. She had taken several photos and a video specifically to convince me that this should be our home base for our next Bordeaux visit - and after seeing these images, I completely agreed! While her being ill during our tour was unfortunate, her unexpected rest gave us a preview of this wonderful property that we might have otherwise missed.

REFLECTING ON THE LEFT BANK

As we prepared to cross the Gironde to St. Emilion, I found myself amazed by the unique experiences we'd had. That first drive up the D2 had offered a perfect introduction to the legendary estates. We'd witnessed centuries-old traditions like candle-lit racking at Château d'Issan and learned fascinating technical details like how burning sulfur in barrels leads to those "Contains Sulfites" notices on our wine labels. Other firsts - my first Bordeaux barrel samples and my first taste of the exciting 2022 vintage. Discovering how restaurants like Cafe Voisin once bottled château wines themselves. Over these three days, we'd tasted 20 or so different wines from seven different Bordeaux appellations, each adding to our understanding of this amazing wine growing region.

Now we were headed to the Right Bank, and I found myself wondering if it could possibly match what we'd experienced these past few days. More importantly, I hoped Dio would start feeling better so she could fully enjoy what lay ahead. While her unexpected rest at Les Sources De Caudalie had given us a preview of where we'd definitely stay on our next visit, I was eager for her to experience the full magic of Bordeaux again.

For my detailed tasting notes from these remarkable days, you can find them in my CellarTracker notes below: