From Right Bank to Right At Home: An Unforgettable Evening at Vignobles Arbo
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So far on our first trip to Bordeaux, we'd spent several incredible days exploring the Left Bank's legendary Classified Growths - from our first taste of Bordeaux at Mouton Rothschild to our enlightening visit to Smith Haut Lafitte (read about those adventures in this post and this post). But it was an evening with a family-owned estate that would prove to be the highlight of our Bordeaux journey thus far.
CROSSING TO THE OTHER SIDE
After bidding farewell to Smith Haut Lafitte, we crossed the Gironde via the François-Mitterrand Bridge, literally and figuratively bridging the gap between Left and Right Bank Bordeaux. The 1.5-hour drive gave me time to reflect on how different these two regions are, despite being so close geographically.
Our first stop was Saint-Emilion, a UNESCO World Heritage site where medieval architecture and world-class wines create an almost fairy-tale setting. The limestone buildings seemed to rise organically from the hillside, their pale stone glowing in the afternoon light.
Photo Credit: Fabien1309, CC BY-SA 2.0 FRSLEEPING WITH HISTORY
The Badon Boutique Hotel in Saint-Emilion's heart proved to be another example of Michel's thoughtful planning. The rare on-site parking was a genuine luxury in this medieval town. But the property held an even more interesting wine connection - before its conversion to a hotel, the building had been used by Jean-Luc Thunevin of Château Valandraud during the garagiste movement. Our room offered a stunning view over the ancient rooftops, providing a perfect vantage point to appreciate the city's timeless beauty. (Hint: If you want this same view, stay in room 6!)
A WINE SHOP WORTH THE WAIT
I'd been hoping to visit a wine shop since arriving in Bordeaux, but Michel had suggested waiting for Saint-Emilion - specifically, ETS Martin. Now I understood why. While Michel needed to purchase champagne as gifts for upcoming tastings, I found myself mesmerized by their cellar, which housed one of the most impressive collections I've ever encountered. We made plans to return when we had more time to properly explore their extensive inventory.
HEADING TO VIGNOBLES ARBO
With my wife Dio still needing rest at the hotel, Michel, Marla and I embarked on a half-hour drive to Vignobles Arbo in the Francs Côtes de Bordeaux region. During our journey, Michel explained his connection to the estate - he knew the owners' daughter, Margaux Arbo, from her time as his representative at Twins Bordeaux. This visit would fulfill my request for "under-the-radar gems" alongside touring legendary estates. More excitingly, this wouldn't be a typical tasting - we were invited into their home and would be treated to a home-cooked dinner! In addition, Michel and Marla hadn’t yet met Margaux’s parents before that night, so they were also looking very forward to what would become a truly unforgettable evening!
TERROIR 101
Just before reaching Montagne, Michel pulled over for an impromptu lesson in Bordeaux terroir. The contrast between Left and Right Bank became immediately apparent. The Left Bank's relatively flat landscape features predominantly gravelly soils over limestone, resulting in excellent drainage. The Right Bank, however, presents a more varied topography with hills and higher clay content, the limestone lying closer to the surface. These fundamental differences in soil composition help explain the distinct characteristics of wines from each region.
A FAMILY LEGACY IN TRANSITION
Upon arrival, Margaux welcomed us warmly, leading us to what would become their future tasting room. A photo of the estate's founder - Margaux's great-great-grandfather - stood proudly beside their lineup of wines. His early 20th-century dream of establishing a vineyard had been temporarily interrupted by World War I, but eventually became reality.
The storage area, with its beautiful stone walls, was in an exciting state of transition. Margaux explained that she and her brother were transforming this space, previously used by their parents Bernadette and Joseph for storage, into a proper tasting area. Mental note made to return on my next Bordeaux visit to see the completed transformation.
THE WINES SPEAK
Our tasting moved to their back porch, where formality gave way to genuine hospitality. Between comparative tastings, we played fetch with their dog while chatting with Margaux's husband, Edouard Braastad, about his family-run company Braastad Cognac, . The relaxed atmosphere perfectly complemented these honest, terroir-driven wines.
The side-by-side comparisons proved fascinating. Their unoaked Château Puyanché offerings showed how vintage variations express themselves differently - the 2019 Château Puyanché displaying more muscular tannins while the 2018 Château Puyanché took a softer approach. Both earned 88 points from me for their pure expressions of terroir.
The Château Godard Bellevue series demonstrated their skill with oak aging. The 2019 Château Godard Bellevue (89 points) and 2018 Château Godard Bellevue (90 points) showed how bottle age enhances integration. But it was their 100% Merlot, the 2016 Château Godard Bellevue L'Etoile (91 points), that captured my heart - a beautiful example of Right Bank Merlot at its best.
Their white wines impressed equally, with both the 2022 and 2021 Château Puyanché Francs Côtes de Bordeaux Blanc Sec earning solid 91-point scores while showcasing distinct vintage personalities.
BEYOND THE TASTING
As we concluded our formal tasting, our hosts surprised us with pre-dinner snacks, including chips and salsa - a thoughtful nod to Michel and Marla's Texas roots. During this relaxed interlude, I learned more about Margaux's expanding role in Bordeaux wine. Beyond Vignobles Arbo, she now heads sales and distribution at Château La Vieille Cure in Fronsac. As a longtime fan of that producer, I was fascinated to hear about its recent transition from American back to French ownership.
DINNER AMONG FRIENDS
Inside their home, Bernadette treated us to a wonderful home-cooked meal. The conversation flowed as naturally as the wine, ranging from restaurant recommendations for our upcoming Berlin visit to discussions about Spanish wines. Joseph's enthusiasm for Spanish wine became infectious as he began sharing bottles from his personal collection.
A 1983 DISCOVERY
As we were nearing the end of the meal, I was told to follow Joseph into another area of their home. We arrived at his personal cellar and he asked me what year I was born. 1974, why? Because I'm going to grab a bottle of your birth year vintage of our wine to open right now! Unfortunately, he didn't have that vintage and started naming other vintages from the 70's that he did have. I asked, do you happen to have the 1983 vintage? That's my wife Dio's birth year! YES, he had that vintage!
Using an Ah So Wine Opener, he carefully extracted the cork, sharing fascinating historical insights during the process. The unusually heavy capsule was made of lead, common for that era. The label bore only "1983 Bordeaux Superieur Cotes de Francs" because when his grandfather harvested the fruit, he would deliver it to the "cooperative intercommunale" (wine cooperative or “co-op”) where their shared winemaker would produce and bottle wines for multiple local properties.
The 1983 proved to be an absolute revelation. Drinking perfectly with fully resolved tannins and complete integration, it showed remarkable complexity and finesse. This was definitely my Wine of the Night, earning 93 points from me and demonstrating why aged Bordeaux holds such a special place in wine lovers' hearts.
A GESTURE OF KINDNESS
Just when I thought the evening couldn't get more memorable, the family surprised us with one final gesture. Since Dio hadn't been able to join us, they gave me another bottle of the 1983 to share with her. Their only request? Let them know how she enjoyed it.
CONNECTIONS THAT LAST
The next day, realizing I'd forgotten to purchase wine during our visit, I asked Michel for Margaux's contact information. This led to a wonderful email exchange, beginning with my heartfelt thank you for their hospitality. I made sure to extend an invitation to Atlanta, promising to dig deep into my cellar if they ever visited.
Margaux responded warmly, mentioning that they work with Savannah Distributing and their wines could be found at several Georgia locations, including Cellar 13 and Tower in Atlanta. She also pointed me to retailers in New York and Missouri carrying their 2018 Château Godard Bellevue. While they didn't yet have distribution in Barcelona, where we were headed next, she mentioned they did sell in small stores in Priorat.
THE BARCELONA TASTING
True to my promise, I sent photos when we opened that special 1983 bottle six days later in Barcelona with Dio's brother and his wife. The wine showed magnificently, proving an ideal way to share a piece of our Bordeaux experience with family.
BUILDING THE CONNECTION
Back in Atlanta, I tracked down their wines at local shops, sending photos to share my successful hunt. I even found their 2018 Arbo Malbec, which I had not tasted when in France! I was even able to source the 2018 Château Godard Bellevue from one of those retailers in New York!
This evening at Vignobles Arbo absolutely transcended typical wine tasting experiences. While the legendary châteaux impressed with their grandeur, it was this intimate evening with the Arbo family that truly captured the spirit of Bordeaux - where wine becomes a bridge between cultures, creates lasting friendships, and reminds us that sometimes the most extraordinary discoveries come from unexpected places.
For my complete tasting notes from this extraordinary evening and our entire Bordeaux trip:
Editor's Note (June 2024): Our correspondence continued over the months, leading to an exciting development in May 2024 - an invitation for Vignobles Arbo to participate in the Atlanta High Museum Wine Auction in March 2025. Margaux has enthusiastically agreed to participate, making this story even more special. I'm particularly excited that Dio will finally get to meet Margaux, making up for missing that memorable evening in Bordeaux last year. Sometimes the best wine stories continue to evolve in unexpected and wonderful ways.
