Return to Napa: When Four Months is Too Long to Stay Away

After experiencing our first three Michelin three-star restaurants - SingleThread (read about it here), Quince (read about it here), and The Inn at Little Washington (read about it here) - my wife Dio and I had committed to trying all the remaining three-star establishments in the United States. On November 1st, 2022, we secured a reservation at Per Se in Manhattan for mid-December. Shortly after booking Per Se and before our New York trip, fortune smiled on us - on December 1st, we managed to book a table for four at The French Laundry (TFL) for February 2023.

Here's a pro tip for those seeking TFL reservations: Given the restaurant's intimate size, there are very few tables for two. By booking a table for four instead, you're competing with a smaller pool of reservations - competing with hundreds (maybe thousands?) of people for those few two-tops isn't ideal. TFL has many more tables that seat four or more people than tables for two. This strategy finally worked for us after months of unsuccessful attempts.

While I won't be doing a separate blog post about our December Per Se experience (I was under the weather during our visit, which muted my taste experience), we both loved the space, service, staff, and the stunning Central Park views. Dio assured me the food was "on point!" During that same New York trip, Dio dined solo at three-starred Masa - my seafood allergy made that one a non-starter for me. The Per Se experience offered an intriguing preview of what awaited us at TFL, as our server shared two fascinating details: many menu items are identical between Per Se and TFL, and they maintain a live video feed between both kitchens so Thomas Keller can monitor operations regardless of his location.

PLANNING OUR RETURN

With our TFL reservation secured, we crafted an ambitious West Coast itinerary spanning San Francisco, Napa, and San Diego - the latter being a first visit for Dio. We invited my longtime friend Jeff and his wife Sharon to join us for the Napa portion. As fellow wine enthusiasts living in different cities, this would be a perfect reunion opportunity.

EXPLORING SAN FRANCISCO

Landing in San Francisco on February 15th, we headed straight to Cotogna, the sister restaurant to Quince that we'd learned about during our previous visit. The meal was fantastic! After dinner, we experienced firsthand San Francisco's famous hills during our nighttime walk back to the hotel - those steep inclines are no urban legend! The city's illuminated streets and historic buildings created a magical atmosphere despite the workout.

FROM CITY TO VALLEY

The next day began with exploring Golden Gate Park, where winding trails and graffiti-covered bunkers offered a fascinating glimpse into the city's military history along with stunning bay views. After some shopping in the city, we made our way north, crossing the iconic Golden Gate Bridge toward Napa Valley. We couldn't resist making the obligatory West Coast pilgrimage to In-N-Out Burger just north of San Francisco. The line was long but moved quickly, making the wait worthwhile.

Then it was off to MacDonald Vineyards for an extraordinary tasting experience (you can read about that memorable visit here). We concluded our evening at Bouchon Bistro, another Thomas Keller establishment right next door to The French Laundry. The meal was superb, with the macarons from Bouchon Bakery next door stealing the show. We even secured a to-go box of macarons, cleverly avoiding the bakery's notorious lines by ordering them at dinner.

BALLOON DREAMS AND BAKERY CONSOLATIONS

The next morning began with disappointment when our scheduled hot air balloon ride was cancelled due to wind conditions. However, being directly across from Bouchon Bakery proved fortuitous - with no line at opening time, we enjoyed a fabulous breakfast that somewhat cushioned our balloon disappointment.

REUNITING WITH NAPA FRIENDS

Lunch at Mustard's Grill brought us together again with Angela from Impensata (you can read about our first meeting here). I brought along a 2018 Bruliam Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard, having visited them on our last trip. Angela surprised us with a wonderful gift - a shiner of their not-yet-released 2019 Impensata Ecotone Merlot.

A MEADOWOOD RETREAT

After lunch at Mustards, we experienced an unexpected change in accommodations that turned into a delightful surprise - relocating to Meadowood Napa Valley for the remainder of our stay. Our room proved to be the perfect wine country retreat, with its rustic stone fireplace, elegant marble bathroom, and private deck overlooking the wooded hillside.

While our previous stay at Alila Napa Valley (which you can read about here) impressed us with its sleek, contemporary luxury and vineyard views, Meadowood offered a different but equally exceptional approach - one of timeless, residential comfort. Where Alila embodied modern wine country chic, Meadowood captured the classic soul of Napa Valley. Both properties exemplify luxury hospitality at its finest, just through different lenses, and we're already planning return visits to both.

The property's attention to detail shone through in every aspect. Mornings began with either room service by the fire or breakfast in their sun-filled restaurant, where fresh berries and local ingredients took center stage. Each evening, we'd return to find our fireplace prepared and ready to light, creating the perfect ambiance for enjoying a glass of wine while watching the sunset through the ancient oaks.

That evening, we dined at La Toque, nestled in downtown Napa's Westin Verasa hotel. As a one-Michelin-starred restaurant, it offered an interesting comparison to our previous experience at one-Michelin-starred Auberge du Soleil - in our opinion, La Toque proved far superior. The elegant dining room, anchored by an open kitchen where we could watch Chef Ken Frank's team at work, set the stage for what would become a three-hour culinary journey. The thoughtfully paced chef’s tasting menu, coupled with the staff's warm attentiveness, made for a truly memorable evening and another highlight of our trip.

WINE AND FRIENDSHIP

Jeff and Sharon arrived late that evening, and we kicked off their visit the next day with lunch at The Charter Oak. Having enjoyed it so much during our first Napa trip, particularly their fresh vegetables, we knew it would impress. The big fire-cooking setup inside created a wonderful atmosphere. We brought along a shiner of Ramiro's Syrah blend from Caldwell Vineyard (if you haven't read about meeting Ramiro during our first trip, you can catch up here), wanting to give them a taste of our previous discoveries.

The afternoon brought us to B Cellars - marking my first return visit to any Napa winery. I'd enjoyed my October experience so much (which you can read about here) that I knew my wife Dio and our friends had to experience it for themselves, since Dio had to miss the visit last time. While the cold weather prevented the full outdoor experience, the cellar tour still impressed. What truly sets B Cellars apart is their unique tasting setup - the room centers around a chef's area where their Michelin-experienced team prepares perfect pairings for each wine. After the standard flight, we explored several impressive single-vineyard offerings. The 2019 B Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley and 2021 B Cellars Pinot Noir Manzana Vineyard particularly stood out - both earned spots in my cellar.

That evening at TORC, I shared another treasure with our group from our previous trip - the 2019 Caldwell Platinum. The meal was exceptional, with the chef thoughtfully visiting our table to help us navigate the menu to accommodate our various allergies. Although we were too engaged in conversation to capture many photos, we did capture some of a few of the standout dishes.

SHARING OLD FAVORITES AND NEW DISCOVERIES

The next day brought a lively lunch at Gott's Roadside in St. Helena with Ramiro from Caldwell joining us. True to form, he arrived bearing gifts - more of his own wine plus his barrel-aged tequila, aged in barrels he crafts himself as Caldwell's master cooper. The lunch turned pleasantly boozy, and when we mentioned our upcoming tasting at D. R. Stephens Estate, Ramiro happily accepted our invitation to join.

John, our host at Stephens, graciously opened on President's Day despite being technically closed. Knowing they were sold out of their 2019 D.R. Stephens Malbec Collateral Lily Vineyard that I'd enjoyed so much at the Braves event (read about that adventure here), I brought one of my bottles to share with our friends at this tasting.

John guided us through an impressive lineup in their cave. For Cabernet Sauvignon, we explored both their 2019 Collateral Napa Valley and the single-vineyard 2019 Moose Valley from St. Helena, each expressing distinct personalities. The 2019 Collateral Malbec I'd brought along provided an interesting counterpoint to their Cabernets. We also tried their Burgundian varieties - the 2019 Star Vineyard Chardonnay from Rutherford and the 2021 Silver Eagle Vineyard Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley. Each wine showcased such impressive character that I couldn't resist adding them all to my cellar.

The devastation from the fires of 2020 was evident as we emerged - the view from their winery of the Valley completely transformed by the loss of all surrounding tree coverage.

MOUNTAIN VIEWS AND STUNNING WINES

We bid farewell to Ramiro and headed to Lerner Project, where Stu Lerner and his wife Karen welcomed us to their Armstrong Ranch Estate home. Their sky deck offered breathtaking views, and the wines matched the scenery. While their 2017 Tench Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon impressed, their 2019 Lerner Project Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County, available only during estate tastings, proved to be the standout. I made sure to secure several bottles for my cellar.

After such a full day, we returned to Meadowood for a quiet evening with room service, preserving our energy for what lay ahead.

THE FRENCH LAUNDRY BECKONS

Our final day in Napa began with a relaxed morning before visiting Reynolds Family Winery. Their outdoor tasting, complete with vineyard and pond views, provided the perfect finale to our wine experiences. Their 2019 Reynolds Family Winery Merlot particularly impressed me, earning a spot in my cellar.

That evening, we all gathered at The French Laundry for a truly memorable experience (read about that unforgettable dinner here). It was the perfect way to conclude our time with Jeff and Sharon before they headed home the next morning.

SAN DIEGO SOJOURN

From Napa, Dio and I flew to San Diego, where another three-star experience awaited at Addison (read about that memorable evening here).

The remainder of our San Diego stay at the Alila Marea Beach Resort offered the perfect coastal retreat. Our room featured a private ocean-view patio with a fire pit - the perfect spot for enjoying morning coffee or evening wine while listening to the waves crash below. We spent our mornings walking along the beach, and our evenings alternating between dips in the illuminated pool and relaxing by the property's various fire features. The Pocket, their casual restaurant, became a favorite spot with its satisfying pub fare and live music. The beachfront setting and attentive service provided exactly the relaxation we needed after our whirlwind wine country adventure.

We spent our days exploring the USS Midway Museum, enjoying another In-N-Out fix, touring the Japanese Garden in Balboa Park, and visiting the San Diego Museum of Art. The beachfront setting proved perfect for unwinding after our whirlwind wine country adventure. We even found time to plan our upcoming 40-day European adventure while enjoying the ocean views and resort amenities.

Looking back, this second Napa trip taught us valuable lessons about pacing. Fewer tastings per day and building in true vacation time made for a more refreshing experience than our first visit. The combination of luxury accommodations at Meadowood, reunions with friends both old and new, and the perfect mix of wine and relaxation created an unforgettable journey. Sometimes, the best way to appreciate wine country is to slow down and savor it.