Welcome To My First Wine Country Adventure

FIRST THINGS FIRST

Welcome to my newly launched wine and food blog! 

If you're looking to learn more about me and my wine journey, hop over to my About page. You can also explore my cellar's makeup through detailed charts and graphs at My Cellar, showing everything from regional diversity to where I source my wines.

For more regular updates and behind-scenes content, follow along on Instagram and YouTube. 

For wine enthusiasts interested in my detailed wine tasting notes, I maintain comprehensive notes and scores on CellarTracker under my heavypourwine profile. I use CT’s Tasting Story feature to group related wine flights or tastings together, making it easy to follow my wine journey chronologically. Each blog post on heavypourwine.com will have a direct link to a corresponding CellarTracker tasting story.

Here’s my CellarTrack Tasting Story for this trip:

I'd love to connect - drop me a line at somm at heavypourwine.com, fill out my contact form), or send me a DM on Instagram.

Now, on to my very first blog post!

HOW A $20 BORDEAUX LED TO NAPA

Sometimes the most amazing journeys start with the simplest discoveries. For me, it was stumbling upon a bottle of Arbalest at an Atlanta grocery store back in 2017. This $20 Bordeaux had me intrigued enough to research its background, leading me down a rabbit hole exploring winemaker Benoit Touquette's various projects like Fait Main, Realm, and Teeter Totter. His wines quickly became some of my favorites, and I've been buying wine direct from all three projects since 2018.

During the quieter Covid-era days of 2020 and into 2021, I dove deep into learning about U.S. wine, including a deep dive into Realm’s story. While reading about Benoit's journey with Realm, a particular passage caught my eye: "We did well at the High Museum auction in Atlanta..."

Wait - what auction? Despite living in Atlanta since 2005 and being into fine wine since 2006, I had no idea we had such a major annual wine event - in it’s 30th year - right in our backyard. After some quick research and a chat with my wife Dio, we immediately signed up as Wine Auction Benefactors. The big draw? Benefactors are guaranteed entry into intimate winemaker dinners featuring global producers paired with Atlanta's top chefs, hosted in local homes.

MY FIRST HIGH MUSEUM WINE AUCTION DINNER: THE TRIP'S CATALYST

Our first winemaker dinner in March 2022 proved to be a pivotal evening. Hosted steps away from my previous townhouse in Midtown, the event featured Component Wines (represented by owner Michael Kennedy) and Littorai (with legendary owner/winemaker Ted Lemon). Chef Andy Tran of Murphy's Atlanta crafted a beautiful multi-course meal that perfectly complemented the wines.

Ted shared both current releases and library wines from his portfolio, with the 2009 Littorai Pinot Noir B. A. Thieriot Vineyard being an absolute standout - so much so that I immediately ordered my maximum allocation of three bottles. Michael poured his 2019 Gagnon-Kennedy Beckstoffer Georges III and 2018 La Caccia Di San Giovanni, both of which showcased his winemaking philosophy beautifully.

THE BIRTH OF A WINE COUNTRY PLAN

During dinner, Ted observed something fascinating - he proclaimed Dio to be a "super taster," placing her in that rare percentage of people who can precisely identify notes on wines on both the nose and palate. I'll admit, I'm a bit jealous of this distinction! We also connected with Michael, learning about his unique venture, Vin Fraiche, which would later play a significant role in our Napa adventure.

Following the success of our first winemaker dinner, we were determined to secure one of the auction lots at the main event. Two days later, at the Vintner's Reception preceding the auction, we reconnected with Michael and met his equally charming wife.

Their wines continued to impress, and we set our sights on the "Gagnon-Kennedy Vineyards" lot:

When the gavel fell, we were the high bidders - and just like that, our first real wine country adventure was set in motion!

PLANNING THE PERFECT WINE COUNTRY ITINERARY

We scheduled our trip for early October 2022, planning six days of wine tasting, a few days exploring San Francisco, a Phoenix concert at the Greek Theatre in Berkeley, and our first TWO Michelin three-star dining experiences. I handled the winery selections while Dio took charge of our restaurant reservations.

My winery selection criteria was specific:

- Avoid the famous, well-known producers
- Seek out under-the-radar gems
- Prioritize unique tasting experiences over just great wine

After extensive research through Cellartracker reviews and recommendations from friends and family, we had our lineup. We then invited our good friends Kendric and Mara from LA to join us for the first few days, including our stay at the guest house (officially known as the "Smuggler's Hideaway").

SAN FRANCISCO: SETTING THE STAGE

Our adventure began in San Francisco on October 1st. After checking into our hotel with its spectacular bay views, we spent the day exploring iconic spots like Coit Tower. The beautifully preserved murals inside the tower and the sweeping city views from above provided the perfect start to our California journey.

That evening, we kicked off our gastronomic adventure at Roka Akor. Dio raved about the sushi's freshness, while I savored an excellent wagyu dish. After dinner, we took advantage of the clear night for a romantic walk, capturing some stunning shots of the illuminated city skyline and bay.

WINE COUNTRY DAY 1: FROM CITY LIFE TO VALLEY VIEWS

The next morning, our friends met us at our hotel in San Francisco, and we all headed to Napa together. Our first stop? Robert Sinskey Vineyards. We were greeted with a pour of their 2018 Robert Sinskey Vineyards Libration from a Magnum - a perfect welcome drink that would later prove to be one of my favorites. The property tour was a sensory delight, with our host encouraging us to pick fresh fruit from their organic gardens while explaining their sustainable farming practices.

Back in the tasting room, we experienced their "Root to Table" tasting, where the wines were thoughtfully paired with small bites. The food was exceptional - their wood-fired pizza ended up being one of the culinary highlights of the trip. The 2015 Robert Sinskey Vineyards Merlot Los Carneros particularly impressed me, showing just how elegant California Merlot can be.

After saying goodbye to Sinskey, we drove to the Caldwell property, where an incredible experience awaited. The "Smuggler's Hideaway" cottage, our home for the next few days, sat nestled among the vines, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains. A bottle of 2019 State of Mind The Cheese Shed welcomed us - a fitting introduction to what would become a memorable stay.

Our afternoon tasting with Dan at the Vin Fraiche Cheese Shed was extraordinary. The historic building, literally across the driveway from our cottage, provided an intimate setting for a global wine journey. Dan started us off with a bold choice - the 2019 State of Mind Chardonnay LS Vineyard from Oregon's Eola-Amity Hills, a refreshing start perfect for the warm day.

Inside the Cheese Shed, we explored an impressive lineup including the 2018 La Caccia Di San Giovanni from Tuscany, 2014 Component Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill, 2019 Component Cabernet Sauvignon Caldwell Vineyard, and 2020 Gagnon-Kennedy Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Ross Vineyard. The 2019 Component Caldwell Vineyard particularly impressed me - so much so that I secured a bottle for my cellar.

During the tasting, Dan took us on a 4WD tour of the Caldwell vineyards, where we learned about the 123-acre property (60 under vine), their experience with the 2020 fires, and their innovative approaches to dealing with smoke exposure. Dan's laid-back approach and willingness to join our (occasionally colorful) conversations made for an unforgettable experience. We also learned about Marc Gagnon's dual role as both the Vin Fraiche and Caldwell winemaker and the exclusive rights Vin Fraiche holds to host tastings in this historic space.

The day concluded with dinner at Angèle, where we opened our welcome bottle of Cheese Shed Blend - it paired beautifully with both my pasta and Dio's steak.

WINE COUNTRY DAY 2: BECOMING FRIENDS WITH A NAPA LEGEND

Our second day began with what would become one of my top 5 tastings of the trip - Caldwell Vineyards with Ramiro, their master cooper. The R-rated banter flowed as freely as the wine as we lost count of the F-bombs dropped. Between tasting excellent wines and champagne, we learned fascinating bits of cooper wisdom (who knew you could aerate wine by rolling the glass sideways on the table?) and got the inside scoop on John Caldwell's famous "vine smuggling" escapades.

Ramiro's enthusiasm was infectious as he shared his expertise about barrel-making and its crucial role in winemaking. The highlight? When he decided to pour their limited 2019 Caldwell Platinum - as he put it, "I don't usually pour this because there's limited supply, but I really like your group so what the hell!" When we playfully accused him of saying that to everyone, he shut that down quickly. This prop blend of their best barrels absolutely wowed Dio - so much so that we ended up buying a case, which is saying something since she rarely gets excited enough about a wine to want to purchase it!

After the tasting, we ran into Dan again on the property. We neglected to get a group photo with him at our tasting the day before, so we corrected that oversight immediately!

For our afternoon tasting, we had Memento Mori - so we headed to their St. Helena tasting room. The surprise star here was actually their white wine from Maxem (Sam Kaplan makes the wine for both labels). The 2020 Maxem UV Vineyard Chardonnay impressed us so much that both we and our friends couldn't resist picking up some bottles.

I purchased their 2019 Memento Mori, which came in a striking presentation box - when opened, it revealed not just the wine but also a meaningful quote, perfectly capturing the brand's thoughtful approach.

Back at the cottage that evening, something magical happened. Following Ramiro's suggestion, we explored the property until we found John Caldwell (aka JFC) himself hanging out at the office connected to the Cheese Shed. What followed was pure Napa Valley magic - JFC welcomed us into his office where we swapped stories (or were they tall tales?), sampled his whiskey and tequila aged in his barrels, and even got a sneak peek at an early cut of a documentary being filmed about him. Even his wife Joy joined in the fun! The F-bombs continued to fly as John and Kendric particularly hit it off - they've kept in touch ever since!

We capped off this incredible day at Grace's Table, enjoying that Sinskey Merlot we'd picked up the day before. Looking back, if our trip had ended right then, it still would have been amazing. But we still had four more days to go!

WINE COUNTRY DAY 3: MOUNTAIN VIEWS AND STUNNING WINES

After checking out of the Smuggler's Hideaway cottage, excited for our next accommodation, we headed to Almacerro. The property took our breath away - from the sweeping vineyard views to the spot that inspired their bottle label. Our tasting revealed the fascinating contrast between vintages, with their 2019 Proprietary Red Blend showing particularly beautifully. As a pleasant surprise, Lindsay confirmed I'd get a spring allocation - something to look forward to back home!

Lunch at Mustards Grill gave us a chance to enjoy our Sinskey white blend while saying goodbye to our LA friends. This "fancy rib joint with way too many wines" (as locals playfully call it) has been a Napa staple for over 30 years, pioneering the farm-to-table movement with their on-site organic gardens. Kendric and Mara's enthusiastic recommendation led us to this beloved valley institution, where hearty American fare meets wine country sophistication. It was the perfect setting for our farewell lunch - though watching our friends head home to their kids made it bittersweet.

Checking into the Alila in St. Helena revealed a stunning view of the vineyard through our room's sliding door. We stepped out onto our private deck to take in the full panorama, capturing a video of Beringer Estate's historic vineyard stretching out before us. What a spectacular vantage point!

After soaking in that incredible view, we got the text message of the trip from John Caldwell himself: "Wondering how our guest cork soaker is doing this morning? -JFC". Just like that, we could say we were friends with a Napa legend!

The afternoon brought us to Vice Versa at Wheeler Farms, where I got my first glimpse into the fascinating world of "custom crush" facilities. All of their wines impressed, especially the single vineyard offerings, and I found myself admiring both the wines and their artistic labels. A surprise highlight was meeting Nigel Kinsman during our tour - though in retrospect, I wish we could have met him after the tasting at Impensata a few days later to tell him in person how much we enjoyed those wines!

The day's perfect ending came at Oenotri, where we experienced one of the trip's most special moments. Ramiro, who had really connected with Dio during our Caldwell tasting (so much that she started helping him with some graphic design projects), joined us for dinner. He brought a shiner of his personal (and un-named!) Syrah-dominant blend made from Caldwell fruit, which we also shared with the restaurant's sommelier. The wine was exceptional - one of the week's standouts. He also gifted us some additional wines and a very special mini wine barrel he had crafted with his daughter.

WINE COUNTRY DAY 4: A SONOMA SOJOURN

The morning began with a scenic drive over the mountain from St. Helena to Sonoma. Our first stop was at Grand Cru Custom Crush to taste with Bruliam Wines' owner Kerith - a visit recommended by friends back in Atlanta who are huge fans of the winery. After a brief video introduction to Bruliam, we toured this impressive custom crush facility, which gave us another fascinating look into the shared winemaking spaces of wine country.

We were already familiar with Bruliam's wines thanks to our friends' previous shares, and all the pinots we tasted lived up to expectations. The 2018 Bruliam Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard we tasted remains my favorite, so we made sure to add more to our collection along with some Soberanes.

After a quick lunch, we headed to Littorai - a visit we'd been eagerly anticipating since meeting Ted Lemon at the High Museum Wine Auction dinner earlier that year. That dinner had already convinced us to join their wine club, and we'd been thoroughly enjoying his wines in our regular shipments since then. The tour of their biodynamic farm was fascinating, and tasting under the tent (a Covid-era setup they maintained out of caution) created a unique atmosphere. The bleating of goats in the background added a distinctly pastoral soundtrack to our tasting of Ted's exceptional wines.

Still feeling peckish after Littorai, we made the essential West Coast pilgrimage to In-N-Out. Being from Atlanta, these opportunities are rare and precious!

Dinner that evening at Auberge du Soleil turned out to be the trip's sole disappointment - the food, service, and atmosphere didn't justify the price point. Ironically, their house cabernet was quite nice! Sometimes a fast food lunch can outshine a Michelin-starred dinner, but at least we got a good photo at the end.

WINE COUNTRY DAY 5: SOLO ADVENTURES AND SHARED EXPERIENCES

With Dio needing some rest, I ventured alone to B Cellars on the recommendation of Cellartracker user "mark1npt" (thanks Mark!). I took plenty of pictures to share with Dio later!

My host Peter (also recommended by Mark as the best in Napa Valley) started me off with a refreshing white before touring the impressive grounds. A highlight was sampling the '22 B Cellars To Kalon straight from the stainless steel tank - delicious! For Mark's benefit, Peter even showed me the tank holding what he predicted would be Mark's favorite '22 B Cellars Missouri Hopper!

The tour continued into B Cellars' cave, where I spotted a familiar name - a barrel made by Ramiro from Caldwell. Napa really is a small world!

What set B Cellars apart was their unique tasting setup - the room centered around a chef's area where their Michelin-experienced team prepared perfect pairings for each wine. The combination of expertly crafted small bites with the wines made this one of my top 5 visits. After the standard flight of wines, Peter treated me to several single vineyard cabs, each one more impressive than the last. The Super Tuscan-style 2019 B Cellars Blend 24 we tasted during the standard flight particularly stood out - I ordered a few bottles of what would become one of my top 3 wines of the trip.

After picking up Dio, who was feeling better, we headed to Charter Oak in St. Helena for lunch. We were fascinated to learn that they source their vegetables from the same garden that previously supplied The Restaurant at Meadowood (a three-Michelin starred establishment that tragically burned in the 2020 fires). These vegetables turned out to be Dio's favorite dish of the entire trip - she still raves about their extraordinary freshness and flavor. The rest of the meal impressed too - from the burger to the overall atmosphere. Definitely add this to your Napa must-visit list!

With renewed energy, we drove up to Howell Mountain to visit Angela and learn about the exciting new Kinsman/Abreu project, Impensata. While waiting for their newly planted estate vines to mature, they're sourcing fruit from prestigious vineyards like Ecotone Vineyard to craft their current releases. Their 2018 Impensata Merlot blend was among the week's finest wines. Angela's personal delivery of our order to our hotel later was just another example of the incredible hospitality we encountered throughout our trip.

The evening culminated with our first three-Michelin-star experience at SingleThread in Healdsburg - you can read about this amazing meal here!

WINE COUNTRY DAY 6: OLD WORLD WINE INFLUENCES

The next morning, seeking some exercise after days of indulgence, I walked from our hotel down St. Helena's charming main street to the historic Pritchard building for a tasting with Erin of Di Costanzo. After learning that the 2019 Di Costanzo Cabernet Sauvignon Farella Vineyard would be their last vintage from that vineyard and tasting its excellence, I had to secure some bottles. The conversation with Erin flowed easily as we discovered our shared passion for Southern Italian reds.

Our final winery visit was Morlet, recommended by my trusted French wine specialist Michel Thibault. The property's gorgeous historical building set the stage for an exceptional tasting. Their welcome champagne (from the family's Champagne holdings) rivaled the 2003 Dom Perignon P2 I'd had at SingleThread the previous night. We learned that Luc Morlet not only crafts fantastic wines but also invented the sorting table used by many wineries! While my preference leaned toward the En Famille Pinot, Dio favored the 2014 Morlet Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Passionnément - guess which one we ordered?

With our wine country adventure complete, we headed to Berkeley's Greek Theatre to catch Phoenix with our friend Brandon who lives in Berkeley. The venue's beauty matched the music's energy.

FINAL DAY IN SAN FRANCISCO

After returning to San Francisco for our final night, we enjoyed watching the Blue Angels practice between the city's skyscrapers.

Our evening concluded with dinner at three-Michelin-starred Quince - you can read about this spectacular dining experience here.

Before heading to the airport the next day, we made time for one final San Francisco experience - visiting SFMOMA. While I'd spent the week immersed in my passion for wine, it was fitting to end our trip exploring Dio's world of art and design. Our timing proved perfect as we caught the special Diego Rivera exhibition, the centerpiece of our visit. We spent a few captivating hours exploring his powerful works, along with the museum's impressive permanent collection including pieces by Frida Kahlo, Mondrian, and Robert Indiana. The modern architecture and stunning building architecture and light installations provided a perfect backdrop for reflection on our memorable California adventure.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

Top 5 Tastings:

1. Caldwell with Ramiro - The perfect blend of exceptional wines, education, and entertainment. When your host is dropping F-bombs while teaching you about barrel-making and pouring limited production wines, you know you're having a special experience.

2. B Cellars with Peter - The combination of chef-prepared small bites perfectly paired with each wine, along with Peter's extraordinary hospitality, set a new standard for tasting experiences.

3. Almacerro - Breathtaking mountain views combined with stellar wines, including both the excellent '18 Cab and the outstanding '19 Proprietary Red, made this visit unforgettable.

4. Vin Fraiche at the Cheese Shed - Dan's global wine journey and laid-back approach made this historic setting even more special. Getting to walk "home" to our cottage afterward was a nice bonus!

5. Robert Sinskey - Starting with picking fresh fruit from their garden and ending with what turned out to be some of the best pizza in Napa, this visit showed how food and wine should complement each other.

The unexpected moments often become the most memorable - from spontaneous late-night storytelling with John Caldwell in his office to Ramiro joining us at Oenotri with his personal blend. Even a chance text message can remind you that in Napa Valley, legendary figures can become fast friends.

This combination of stunning locations and exceptional wines made for an unforgettable first real wine country adventure.