Day Two of the Official Napa Cultivation Trip
The second "official" day of our Napa Cultivation Trip on behalf of the High Museum's Wine Auction took Dio and I back to the very same mountain we had visited just the day before when we toured Chappellet winery. However, this time, we were on a property and at a facility that was about as steeped in the history of this valley as one could ever imagine.
Continuum Estate Vineyard and Winery is the latest in an incredibly impressive line of California endeavors which bear the name Mondavi. In the world of wine, that surname is indeed legendary, as Robert Mondavi has long been one of the most popular brands of vino in America, and Robert himself is considered one of the most influential figures of his time in the American wine world.
In fact, the name Continuum was chosen in part to denote the amazing fact that since 1916, this Italian immigrant family of Old World-trained vintners has not missed a single California harvest. That's despite the ups and downs of the industry (such as during the days of Prohibition when their company and arguably their entire way of life was threatened with termination) and the major upheavals in their own business.
After Prohibition ended, Cesare and Rose Mondavi settled in the city of St. Helena, CA and began making bulk wine. In 1943, their son Robert persuaded them to purchase the famed ―yet inactive― Charles Krug Winery, and it was there that he began his own career, after returning to Europe to immerse himself in their traditional methods of working the land and making fine wine. This winery became a great success. However, in the mid-1960s, a rather infamous family dispute saw Robert eventually ousted from the winery's board, leaving his brother Peter (with whom he'd shared management duties) fully in charge.
Robert subsequently formed a new winery under his own name, which went public in the early 1990s. It was that business which sold in 2004 for over a billion dollars (!), with part of that windfall being used to purchase the sprawling, sloping mountain property on Pritchard Hill which now houses Continuum. His children Tim and Marcia (and their own children) were determined to add their own twist to the Mondavi legacy, and to that end they have abandoned the valley floor soil that helped to define previous Mondavi wines and dedicated this company to exclusively sourcing grapes grown at high elevation on the rugged hillsides of East Napa's Sage Mountain Vineyard.
(For a better understanding of the inherent differences between valley fruit and mountain fruit and how those differences manifest in wines, be sure to check out my most recent blog post.)
An existing building on the property is currently being renovated to serve as a new, upgraded hospitality site for the winery's guests. We were directed to the "Lake House" which is temporarily being used as both a starting point for tours and as a tasting facility.
There we were met by Carrissa Mondavi, who explained to us the details of the renovation, and showed us renderings of what the finished project will look like.
We then were treated to an absolutely amazing view from the windows of the Lake House.
VINES, WINES AND PEOPLE
Immediately thereafter Carrissa gave us a personal tour in their retro open-back Land Cruiser, allowing us to get an up-close look at their celebrated vines. At one point, she explained that we were amongst the oldest block of vines on the property, which dated back to 1991.
“We’re big believers that older vines have greater stories to tell,” she offered. “My dad was always saying, ‘Vines, wines and people have a lot in common. The good get better with time!’ So, we’ll find more depth in character, more layers and more complexity. Young vines can be very pretty, but (they’re) more lacking in that depth and richness…”
Next, we saw the “construction zone” where one day the renovated building will be used to its full potential. We also got a gander at a fairly incredible vista from this mountaintop perch, where, on a clear day one can actually gaze across the Bay and see the skyline of San Francisco. Take a look at both in the video below.
According to Carrissa, the rocky terrain on their land results in smaller-than-average yields of fruit (only one-and-a-half to two tons per acre). However, the combination of their property’s volcanic soil and Continuum’s organic and regenerative farming practices results in extremely nutrient-rich grapes. Here in this video, Carrissa explains just how they go about determining the best time to harvest their fruit for the optimum flavor balance. (Hint: it’s all about the lignification ― the process that occurs when the seeds lose their protective pulp.)
Next we headed to the winery, where, in a lovely tree-lined grove just outside the building, we were greeted by a statue of Robert Mondavi by esteemed sculptor John Henry Waddell.
We learned that Continuum's 2013 vintage was the very first that was made from "estate fruit" harvested from this site. Then we entered the winery and enjoyed our first wine of the day (if you'd like, check out my full tasting notes for this 1st Flight over at CellarTracker), their "2nd wine," the lovely 2021 Continuum Novicium, presented dramatically in front of a cut in the mountain rock.
Made from 17-year-old vines, it was an earthy blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot that was double decanted for two hours ahead of time. Only 5,000 cases were produced, and it can only be purchased directly from Continuum’s website or on-site at the estate itself. Did I grab some for my cellar? You bet I did!
Inside the production facility, we got a firsthand look at their impressive array of winemaking equipment - from massive oak fermentation tanks to their state-of-the-art sorting and processing machinery. I love seeing active production areas like this, where the stainless steel tanks and neat rows of barrels remind you that while winemaking is an art, it's also a precisely orchestrated science.
Our tour concluded in their pristine barrel room, where neat rows of French oak barrels held future vintages, awaiting their moment to showcase the exceptional fruit from their mountain estate.
BACK ON THE LAND CRUISER
Then, we hopped back in the vehicle for another ride through the vineyard. This time, Dio and Carrissa got to chat about the different types of plants that thrive here on their mountain land. We wound up picking and smelling a variety of local herbs.
We wound up saving one of those herbs, and it’s now on display in our home.
It was around this time that we happened upon and were introduced to Lupé, the Vineyard Foreman, who Carrissa had nothing but kind words for. He's worked for her family since the days at the original Robert Mondavi Winery and is one of the experienced employees who makes sure they still put the same care into their harvesting process as that older winery was known for. We learned that they continue several traditions from the Mondavi days, including the annual blessing of the harvest - a ceremony that brings together the vineyard workers to celebrate the start of this crucial period. It's these kinds of continuities, alongside their dedicated employees like Lupé, that inspired the name Continuum - representing an unbroken line of winemaking excellence that stretches back through generations of the Mondavi family.
MORE MONDAVI!
Then, it was back to the Lake House where we began, to continue the tasting. On the way, I mentioned to Carrissa that one of the wines we enjoyed on my 50th birthday earlier in the year was a 1974 Robert Mondavi Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. I even showed her some photos of that moment. She replied that she’s had that vintage before as well, and that it’s wonderful. Then she pointed out some of the signature bottles they have on display in the Lake House.
Once inside the “tasting room,” we were met with a charcuterie of nuts and cheese, olive oil they produce on the property and some order forms should we wind up desiring to own some of these wines or oil for ourselves.
The second wine of the day was a white, made by her sister Ciara, who also created the artwork which was used on the bottle ― a drawing of a wild iris. This 2022 Continuum Sauvignon Blanc Sentium was made from the fruit of Sauvignon Blanc vines from another vineyard a couple of hours north in Mendocino County, Ca.
The third and final wine of the day was a 2021 Continuum Proprietary Red which had been decanted for three hours before we tasted it. Boasting a super expressive nose, this "1st wine" was way more tannic than the Novicium.
At the conclusion I purchased a three-pack of the Novicium for my collection. Here’s a shot of the Novicum’s packaging that salutes the historic achievements of immigrants to these shores.
IT’S GOTTA BE GOTT’S ― AGAIN?
After that rather epic visit to the latest chapter of the Mondavi family saga, we headed to a special "Thank-You Lunch" in recognition of the many Napa-based wineries that have supported the High Museum throughout the years. Originally planned for Pizzeria Tra Vigne in St. Helena, a water main break (we actually saw water gushing onto the main street!) forced a last-minute move to Gott's.
That means Dio, I and Rand got to enjoy Gott's (I couldn't help myself) two days in a row! No complaints from me on that one.
It was great to catch up with folks from all these different producers, and to once more enjoy a meal with Jenifer Freebairn (of Lasseter and Wow and Flutter) whom we'd just dined with just a few months prior.
THE SPIRIT OF WINE ITSELF
Next, it was on to a Mending Wall tasting in Calistoga. Proprietor Frank Dotzler describes Mending Wall as a place "built around the spirit of wine itself," where wine can be "shared and enjoyed without pretension."
This endeavor began with 20 acres of land under the name True Vineyard. A little over two decades ago, Outpost Winery and Vineyard (and its owners Mark Pulido and Donna Walker) came into the fold, expanding the footprint of the vineyard. Eventually, legendary winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown (with whom Pulido and Walker already had an existing business relationship) was brought onboard as a fellow proprietor, and with that, the Mending Wall team was deemed complete.
Brown is famously the youngest winemaker to receive a perfect 100-point score from Robert Parker (the first of close to two dozen such scores ever since). He's also the first American winemaker to earn a perfect score of 100 from Wine Spectator (he's gotten two of those), and was named 2010 Winemaker of the Year by none other than Food & Wine Magazine
When we first arrived, we entered a very cool and intriguing modern building and were shown to the tasting room by our host, Erin Scally, who’s worked with Mending Wall for the past couple of years. She moved to Napa from the East Coast in 2017 and her background in luxury hospitality and sales in both the hotel and wine industry made her a perfect choice for her current role overseeing sales and events. Even if you’re not able to ever make it out to the valley, you might still get to meet Erin, as she travels the country handling tastings all over the place.
However, we also got to meet her dog Marty, who’s apparently well known for roaming the winery with his mom!
It's worth noting how the name of this establishment came about. According to Erin, the winery's neighbors were not too pleased with the look of the building chosen by the owners. Apparently, some of them made critical comments, saying they felt it looked boring and out of place, like a "big box" store (think a Costco wholesale club). This was, of course, before all the plants and vegetation grew in. However, Thomas, being both a cheeky kind of guy and a literature major, named the winery "Mending Wall," after Robert Frost's famed poem of the same title…
MEETING ANOTHER MASTER WINEMAKER
There were plenty of different wines for us to make our way through, as well as an assortment of snacks to accompany them.
The first wine we were able to sample was a Sauvignon Blanc: the 2022 Mending Wall Stone on Stone, which was creamy with just a hint of acidity. Overall, it was extremely clean and fresh to the palate, which is just how Erin told us Thomas Rivers Brown prefers his white Burgundies. (As always, if you want my full thoughts on each wine, check out the notes for Flight 2 over at my Cellar Tracker.)
Our second selection was the 2021 Mending Wall Mortar & Stone, our first red. The grapes used in this blend are "everything but Cabernet," and resulted in a fun drinking experience with very light tannins. It contained Petite Sirah from Palisades Vineyard, which was interesting to learn, since we had just been at Palisades Canyon Wines the day before (check out that post HERE).
We had no idea that Mending Wall not only sourced fruit from that vineyard, but that Steve, Felicia and Graeme MacDonald from Palisades use the Mending Wall facility as a custom crush facility, so their wines are made right here!
It was at this point in the tasting when Thomas surprised us by popping in to inquire about participation in the High Museum Wine Auction. He also helped himself to a glass of the Stone on Stone we'd just tasted (reinforcing what we'd heard about his love of Burgundian-style whites!). We filled him in on the details of the event, knowing it would be awesome if he could join us there, but in the end, it turned out he will not be able to make the journey cross-country, as he is in the process of raising some very small children and that makes it difficult for him to travel. Maybe some year when they’re older!
After he left, we continued the tasting, but luckily Erin was kind enough to take a photo with all of us before he had to go.
The second red we tried was the 2021 Mending Wall Cabernet Sauvignon Godward Vineyard, which wound up being my own personal favorite of all the wines we enjoyed that day. A super approachable and well-balanced wine, it had plenty of toasty notes which came courtesy of the fabled “Rutherford dust,” (which is a colloquial term often used to describe the deeply earthy flavor imparted in Cabernet Sauvignons from the Rutherford AVA in the Napa Valley. The ancient, mineral-rich soil of that specific region imparts a trademark signature on the grapes grown there, which translates into an instantly recognizable nuance in the wines, which is discernable if you know what to be on the lookout for.
After Constellation came in and purchased Beaulieu Vineyard, BV ended their contract with Godward and stopped sourcing fruit from there. The bottle we tried was from 2021 and stands as the very first Mending Wall vintage using Godward’s grapes. It was approachable already, but can certainly be aged nicely, as it had only been open for an hour.
Our next selection was a 2021 Mending Wall Cabernet Franc Oakville Ranch, and, if I’m completely honest, it just didn’t do it for me. This is a bit of a “Unicorn Wine,” as it was only in production for one year, and only 75 cases were made. There was not a lot of fruit present, but plenty of tannin and a good amount of black spice. This was good juice, but I found it left my mouth feeling dry.
After all the talk of the Palisades Canyon Petite Sirah earlier in the tasting, Erin was nice enough to give us an “off the list” pour: the 2021 Mending Wall Petite Sirah Palisades Vineyard. It had not been planned as a part of our tasting, but they just happened to have opened it earlier that day, so it was ready to go. I can’t tell you how cool it was to try another winemaker’s unique take on a Palisades Vineyard Petite Sirah! Plenty of mouth drying tannins with a dark, inky purple color.
All in all, this was a really impressive facility and a very enjoyable tasting. I wound up buying two vintages of the Mending Wall Petite Sirah (the 2021 which I had tried and the 2022 which I did not), so that I can at some point do a side-by-side comparison with both my Palisades Canyon Petite Sirahs once they arrive back in Atlanta. That’s going to be a really fascinating opportunity for me: same grapes, same vintages, same winemaking facility ― literally, the only difference will be two different rock-star winemakers and how they decide to vinify their juices.
I also grabbed some of the Godward Cab and Mortar & Stone, as those were my two favorites of this tasting.
THE “RIGHTEOUS” GEMSTONE
At this point, we headed over to Gemstone Vineyard to pick up the wine we had tasted and ordered a month prior when we met the Gemstone folks at The Vine Club event in Atlanta. By swinging by their facility while I was in the neighborhood and using my VinGuardeValise suitcase which I brought with me, I saved a good bit on S&H costs. And, more importantly, I didn’t have to wait till fall for them to send me the wine. I’ll get to enjoy these wines at home much sooner!
I grabbed my wines from their tasting room and grabbed some photos in the room and the valley floor vineyards in the process.
Since Gemstone was aware that Dio and I were there as part of the Cultivation Trip, they had indicated their interest in participating. Since there was no time for our team to have a full visit at their property, they kindly gave us a “Tasting Kit,” to share with our group, which included three bottles of what they’d most often pour for their guests. How nice! I took this kit with me to Sonoma the following day and our group enjoyed it greatly during our final dinner together before heading back home.
One other thing I wanted to mention: I later learned that Thomas Rivers Brown, whose wines we had just tried at Mending Wall, was the winemaker responsible for the vintage of Gemstone that I had tried earlier in Atlanta and just picked up for my own collection. Wild, right? Though he’s no longer making Gemstone’s wine, he did make the specific vintage I loved and purchased. Again, what a small world Napa can be…
ENDING THE DAY AT AN OLD FAVORITE
By this point, half of our group had already left Napa and headed to Sonoma. Dio and I suggested that those of us who were still in the immediate area meet for dinner at the local “rib joint” Mustards Grill. If you're curious about why this beloved valley institution is known for begin far more than just a "fancy rib joint with way too many wines," check out my post about our first visit during our October '22 trip.
Our dinner with the small group, including our friends Dain and Lauren, was really lovely and fun. I brought a bottle of 2012 Billecart Salmon Louis Salmon brut blanc de Blancs because I adore it, and I knew Dio does too. It was happy that everyone else did as well!
This whirlwind trip to the Napa side of Wine Country had finally come to a close.
The next morning we would start our equally quick and jam-packed visit to Sonoma on behalf of the High Museum Wine Auction. There was plenty more to see, taste and learn about, and plenty more people to meet…