Cultivation Trip 2024: On Our Own
Have you ever noticed that life can ―at times have a surprising way of marrying your passions with your goals? Not always, of course, but often when you least expect it?
That’s basically what occurred when Atlanta’s High Museum approached my wife Dio about serving as co-chair of their 2025 Atlanta High Museum Wine Auction. For those unfamiliar with this event, it’s a pretty huge deal in the worlds of wine and fine art. Since 1993, the High Museum Wine Auction has served as more than just the city’s premier wine fest; it’s also raised close to $40 million for the museum.
That makes it the single largest charity wine auction benefiting the arts in the entire USA, and as she and I deeply value arts and culture as an integral part of our daily existence, this was an opportunity that Dio could not imagine passing up ― and which I was thrilled to take part in myself.
HOW WE WOUND UP ON THIS JOURNEY
In a way, this honor felt like the natural progression of our involvement with the event.
She and I have loved everything about the High Museum Wine Auction since we first enthusiastically attended it years ago. To us, it was a grand undertaking that brought together Atlanta’s esteemed wine and art communities for the common good. Its myriad of activities, from tastings to winemaker dinners, allowed us to not only enjoy and educate ourselves but to meet and form lasting relationships with others who shared our interests and passions.
Having participated in our first cultivation trip in 2023, we were already familiar with the unique blend of official duties and impromptu adventures these journeys could offer. However, when Dio accepted this invitation to play a key role in organizing the 2025 auction, we were somewhat unprepared for just how quickly things would kick into high gear (pun intended).
Every year, in anticipation of the auction, representatives from the museum make a “diplomatic mission” to California’s wine country. By that I mean Napa Valley and Sonoma County. This journey helps to foster new partnerships with up-and-coming vineyards and wineries and to maintain long standing collaborations with those producers who have been stalwart supporters of this fundraiser for ―in some cases― three decades. When we learned the dates for this trip were August 10 through 15, we began to map out plans for our journey.
These Cultivation Trips (so named because the emissaries from the High Museum are “cultivating” relationships with top-tier boutique companies) are a coveted co-chair benefit, and they are welcome to bring their spouse, partner or significant other along with them (that’s me!). It’s also worth noting that other guests may sometimes be allowed to join the excursion if they are approved by the Wine Auction committee.
When I noticed that the official events of the trip did not actually begin until Monday, August 12, I realized that gave us two open days in Napa. I already had several must-see wineries in the back of my head, waiting for just such an occasion (including, thanks to a recommendation from a fellow CellarTracker user I’d met at the Arrow&Branch Investors weekend, Palisades Canyon Wines, crafted by none other than winemaker Graeme MacDonald). But my excitement grew once I learned our friends Dain and Lauren Reeves had agreed to join Dio and myself for the trip as well. The Reeves are ten-year veterans of the auction and would make for perfect companions.
The timing of this trip proved especially serendipitous, as Lauren had recently been asked to serve as second co-chair for the 2025 auction alongside Dio, though she was still evaluating how to balance this role with her other charitable commitments. Experiencing the cultivation trip firsthand helped make her decision clear - shortly after we returned home, she enthusiastically accepted the position!
A SHORT FIRST DAY IN CALI
As I’ve mentioned before on this blog, sometimes the best experiences one will have while in wine country are born out of what some might call “perfect timing.” After an early flight arrival and an extremely smooth drive from SFO Airport to the town of Yountville, we realized we were staying only a few minutes from the brand-new A&B winery. Knowing the Reeves were there already for a tasting with our trusted friend and associate Michael Ploetz (the winery’s V.P. of Hospitality and Sales), I couldn’t resist surprising them all.
I arrived just as Dain and Lauren were finishing their order forms. Michael immediately reached for a glass and poured me something special: a 2015 A&B Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Cabernet Sauvignon. (He gets me… He really gets me…) After a brief decant, it showed beautifully and reminded me of why Dio and I have become such firm believers in the quality of A&B’s wines. I soon learned the 2021 Right Bank Blend they’d been tasting beforehand was just as impressive!
You can find my detailed tasting notes (including scores) on these two wines on CellarTracker in “Flight 1” of my tasting story.
THE BISTRO BECKONS
When planning our visit, I'd reached out to Michael about having dinner together. He suggested Bistro Jeanty—and given his years of experience in Napa Valley hospitality and wine, we knew we could trust his recommendation. The restaurant, a passion project of Chef Philippe Jeanty, has been offering classic, home style French cuisine to the Napa Valley for two decades. After our impromptu tasting at A&B, I headed back to grab Dio from the hotel, which was conveniently just a few minutes away, before meeting the group for dinner.
Michael brought another A&B wine that―unfortunately―was corked. A reminder that in the world of wine there are some things even the most careful and exemplary producers cannot control. (I should mention that most truly great wineries ―such as A&B, for example― can be counted on to happily replace a corked bottle for their valued customers, and after our stellar experiences at the winery, none of us minded this a bit.)
FUELING THE ADVENTURE: MORNING TO MIDDAY
The next morning, we tried another of Michael’s reliably solid tips and stopped into Yountville’s Mini Model Bakery. It’s the latest, smallest location of a bakery that’s been legendary in the Napa Valley for close to 100 years. Oprah Winfrey swears by their English muffins (and even travels with them), but I opted for their sausage breakfast sandwich and a latte, both of which were damn near perfect. It was important to get something substantial in our systems, as we needed proper fuel for the two significant winery visits we had on our docket for that day.
Since we had two back-to-back winery visits planned, Dain and Lauren had the brilliant idea to pre-order picnic supplies from Oakville Grocery. The four of us stopped there together to pick up our lunches, and I couldn't believe Dio and I had somehow never visited this area landmark during our five previous Napa trips. The moment we walked in, it was obvious why this old-fashioned store has been a bona fide institution since 1881. An estimable wine selection, a bustling deli counter, and all manner of locally-sourced and made provisions turned this historic building into both a gourmet paradise for visitors and a traditional hub of the community. Just soaking up the ambience gives one a true sense of the day-to-day reality of life in wine country.
With provisions secured, it was onward to our first appointment of the day.
A PEEK INSIDE THE HOURGLASS
We had two incredible tastings lined up for the afternoon, both arranged by Dain - Hourglass and Venge. While I'd enjoyed wines from both producers before, I'd never visited either estate, so I was particularly excited about what lay ahead. Our first stop was at the Hourglass Blueline Estate.
Driving from the entrance of the Blueline Estate to the crush pad - the perfect preview of the stunning property!
As we stepped out of our cars, our host Amanda MacNeill greeted us in true Napa style - with a glass of their 2022 Sauvignon Blanc in hand. The wine, a beautiful blend of Napa and Sonoma fruit, set the perfect tone for what would be an unforgettable visit.
Panorama of the crush pad and the Blueline Vineyards
As we sipped our welcome wine, Amanda explained it's interesting story. The 2020 fires had led to some reimagining of their vineyard plantings, and where Merlot once grew, they've now planted their first-ever Sauvignon Blanc vines. While waiting for these young vines to mature, they're sourcing the Sauvignon Blanc in our glasses from some stellar neighbors like Larkmead, Lassiter, and Theorem. It was a perfect example of how Napa vintners can adapt and innovate, even in the face of challenges.
As our conversation continued, Amanda shared another fascinating aspect of Hourglass's story. As a drummer who's been performing and recording since high school and collecting wines since the early 2000s, I was particularly intrigued to learn about owner Jeff Smith's journey from guitarist in the 1980s and 1990s Bay Area band Noonday Underground (not to be confused with the later and more well-known British band of the same name) to founding his own winery. Jeff wasn't there during our visit, but hearing how he approached winemaking through the same lens he used while making music and trying to break his band into the big leagues made a big impact on me.
I find it fascinating that the same types of disciplines and concepts which apply in making music ―such as texture, vibration and emotional resonance―can also be applied to the art of making wine. It's rare to find someone who speaks the languages of both of my passions so fluently.
Following our discussion at the crush pad, we piled into a 4WD vehicle for the next part of our tour. As we bounced along the vineyard paths, Amanda shared the property's rich history, including stories of a historic hunting lodge from 1888 that had served as their original hospitality space before being lost in the 2020 fires. She told us of summer days ending with cold beers by the lodge's pool, and explained how our current destination - an Airstream trailer - had once been parked beside that landmark building. Along the way, she helped us understand the broader context of Hourglass's two estates: we were currently exploring their "Blueline" property, while their original four-acre Hourglass estate lay about four miles south on Lodi Lane.
This musical connection became even more apparent as we approached the "tricked out" Airstream trailer (complete with a fairly amazing turntable and sound system), which was nestled among the vines. Amanda explained that they use this funky, cozy, non-traditional space for events, such as a recent "Vintage & Vinyl" gathering, where guest DJs paired music from different decades alongside rare, iconic wines from Smith's personal cellar ― all accompanied by wood-fired pizzas.
It was at that moment that I realized my bucket list just got a little bit longer…
After sampling some grapes straight from the vine and exploring their beautiful garden area, we headed back to tour the cave.
The tour of the cave continued in this same vein. First, we passed through an entrance dramatically lined with illuminated bottles, setting the mood for what lay ahead. The journey continued past an impressive soil sample display that showcased the various terroirs of their vineyard sources, before opening into long, arched tunnels where rows of wine barrels lined both sides of the corridor. The cave's theatrical lighting created an almost cathedral-like atmosphere, with the curved ceiling drawing our eyes down the seemingly endless passage. When we finally reached the main tasting room, we were immediately struck by two showstopping features - a spectacular Swarovski crystal light fixture that caught and reflected light throughout the space like a constellation of stars, and a sophisticated marble tasting table that operated on hydraulics. Every detail, from the bottle-lit entrance to the engineering marvel of the table, had been thoughtfully designed to enhance the tasting experience.
THE HEADLINER: SIX STELLAR POURS
After Amanda explained the origin of the Hourglass name - how Lodi Lane represents the narrowest point between Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail, creating an hourglass shape on the map - we settled in for an outstanding lineup of wines.
We began with their 2022 Blueline Merlot, which had been opened earlier that morning. It displayed engaging melon aromatics and a mouth-filling presence with medium tannins.
The 2021 Blueline Estate Right Bank Blend followed, having been opened (but not decanted) the night before. It showed its youth with primary flavors of strawberry and cherry, firm tannins, and a structure that suggested it would pair beautifully with steak.
A particular highlight was their 2021 Mabon GSM - one of my favorites from the tasting. This new brand features a fascinating label design where coordinates mark their grape sources: Grenache and Mourvèdre from Sonoma, Syrah from Carneros. The wine showed bright red fruit and cherry soda notes with remarkably integrated alcohol and low tannins, drinking beautifully right now.
The 2021 Blueline Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (85% Cab) was another standout and personal favorite. Amanda described it as their "dinner party wine," and I could see why - silky smooth texture, beautiful fruit expression, volcanic soil influences, and approachable tannins complemented by dark cherry notes.
Their 2022 "36" Blueline Estate (77% Cabernet, 23% Petit Verdot) has an interesting story - originally created as a one-off auction lot, it was so well received they added it to their portfolio. With only 150 cases produced, this reserve wine shows pronounced blueberry notes with medium to high tannin.
We concluded with their flagship 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from their original St. Helena vineyard on Lodi Lane. While clearly young, it showed tremendous promise for the future.
Here are the Hourglass reds - six stunners in a row!
I enjoyed each wine so much that I ended up buying some of each one we tasted. You can find my detailed tasting notes (including scores) on CellarTracker in “Flight 2” of my tasting story, but trust me when I say this visit was something special.
As our tasting wrapped up, Amanda wisely suggested we enjoy our Oakville Grocery provisions back at the Airstream area. Sitting there, surrounded by vines with the mountains at our back, it felt like one of those perfect wine country moments that can’t help but remind us why we keep returning time and time again.
In particular, though, when it comes to Hourglass and Jeff Smith’s fusion of music making and winemaking, I feel I’ve found a kindred spirit, and am already planning another trip to Napa for a chance to hopefully meet this fellow musician-turned-wine-enthusiast…
I’m also thrilled to announce that if you’re planning on attending the 2025 High Museum Wine Auction, you’ll have a chance to experience Hourglass wines for yourself, as not only are they going to be pouring at the auction, they’ll be participating one of the official Winemaker Dinners (which take place on the first night of the three-day event)…
TEN BOTTLES IN A ROW
With the afternoon sun still high in the sky, we then made our way to the 12-acre estate known as Venge Vineyard. While I'd met Kirk Venge at an event in Atlanta back in '22 and enjoyed his wines many times before, this was my first visit to the estate. Kirk is widely considered one of the most famous and sought-after winemakers in all of Napa and Sonoma. A highly educated master at his craft, he moonlights as a consultant for several high-end producers throughout the valley (including one of my all-time favorites - B Cellars). Unfortunately, Kirk too was unavailable when we arrived. We learned he was at home enjoying his pool!
And hey, who can blame him? Even world-renowned winemakers need a break from the intense, August valley heat.
With its barn-style buildings tucked right up against the hillside, the property at Venge really epitomizes the agricultural heritage of the Napa Valley. You can just feel it, you know?
For this ambitious and extensive tasting, our host Laura had set up ten different wines for us to try. Collectively, they represent the breadth and depth of their operation.
Our journey through Venge's portfolio began with their 2023 Jewell Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. While showing nice tart and melon notes, I found it a bit too tart for my personal taste. We moved to their 2022 Signal Fire Vineyard Zinfandel from Calistoga. While it offered a super expressive nose that was quite impressive, the palate leaned toward cough syrup notes with prominent alcohol and raisiny characteristics.
Next came the 2021 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah, which shared some similar characteristics with the Zin - though less syrupy, the intense flavors were still a bit much for my preference. The 2021 Hudson Vineyard Merlot from Carneros marked a shift in the tasting, showing lovely spice notes, medium weight, and dark red fruit complemented by medium-high tannins.
The 2021 Sugarloaf Vineyard Cabernet Franc proved to be one of the best wines so far in the lineup. Though tight and angular with firm tannins straight from the bottle, it showed excellent aging potential.
Then came the highlight of our tasting - the 2022 "76" Cabernet Sauvignon. Named for Kirk's birth year, this wine is set to replace their signature Silencieux in distribution. The bottle tells the story of the Venge family's deep roots in Napa Valley, spanning more than half a century. Crafted from select vineyards across eight Napa sub-regions, it brings together both mountain and valley fruit in beautiful harmony. No surprise it was Dio's favorite of the day.
The 2021 Igneous Cabernet Sauvignon from Calistoga had been open for several hours when we tasted it. It showed significant tannin and dryness - definitely a wine calling for food at this stage.
As we neared the end of our tasting, two standouts emerged side by side - their 2021 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2021 Annapurna Vineyard Cabernet from Stags Leap District. Both landed among the best wines of the tasting.
We concluded with the 2021 Saunders Block Oakville Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, a fitting end to an impressive lineup.
You can find my detailed tasting notes (including scores) on CellarTracker in “Flight 3” of my tasting story.
Just as with Hourglass, Venge Vineyards will be hosting one of the official Thursday night Winemaker Dinners at the next High Museum Wine Auction. So, if you’re interested in meeting them and tasting their wines, I strongly suggest looking into making plans to attend that three-day event ASAP…
After two stellar tastings in one long day, most folks might have headed to their accommodations to relax, but Dio and I were still in the thick of things. As Dain and Lauren headed off to another event on their own (over the course of this trip they would enjoy their own tasting experiences at Neiman, Groth and Kamen, among other locations) we pointed our GPS toward our dinner destination in Geyserville: a place called Cyrus, where we’d be meeting Adrian Manspeaker (from the most excellent Jewell Wines) and his wife Lily.
FINE DINING IN A ONE-HORSE TOWN?
This dinner was a gesture from him in appreciation of our support for his company with the Atlanta tasting events I’d put on a while back. Adrian had personally recommended Cyrus, as he’d dined in their original location and had been wanting to try their recently opened new location. We’d also never had the pleasure of meeting his wife Lily before, so we were looking quite forward to this meal.
We found ourselves routed through what appeared to be a frontier town rather than a place one would normally assume offered fine dining. It was so confusing that we actually circled the tiny community twice, finding it hard to believe one of the state’s most acclaimed restaurants was tucked away in this extremely unpretentious locale. Finally, we spotted an understated silver sign which marked our spot.
At the end of a dusty gravel road we were met with a modernist building that was a study in architectural restraint. We’d later learn that the unpaved approach was entirely intentional, and that the proprietor wanted to make sure that Silicon Valley’s monied tech crowd were forced to get some wine country dust on their exotic luxury sports cars. That kind of playful irreverence was indicative of what would soon become one of our most memorable dining experiences.
A FISTFUL OF CANAPÉS
Adrian and Lily arrived shortly after we were led to the Bubbles Lounge, with its floor-to-ceiling windows framing some truly jaw-dropping views of the vineyard.
We were then served five wonderful canapés, each designed to evoke a different taste response. From sweet (a garlic chive madeleine) to sour (green strawberry with with basil and yogurt), from salty (a gougère with Comté fondue) to bitter (a charred spring onion "cannoli") and finally to Umami (bamboo rice chip with sesame yolk jam and seaweed chocolate).
Here’s our server describing each bite:
The Jacquesson Cuvée No. 747 Extra Brut (2019 Base) Champagne paired beautifully with these opening bites, its nutty, barrel-aged notes setting a high bar for the evening's pairings.
But then it was time to move on to the Kitchen Table for what amounted to a backstage pass to a performance of culinary theater.
PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE CHEFS BEHIND THE CURTAIN
The courses came "rapid fire" - about eight of them - with an invitation to explore the kitchen and chat with the chefs.
The introduction set the tone for the experience – the chef encouraging us to use our hands if we preferred, and serving what he called "kitchen water" – a chilled plum and shiso tea that paid homage to the building's fascinating history. We learned that before becoming this acclaimed restaurant, the space was a Sunsweet prune packing plant, with fruit being packed upstairs and shipped out by rail. This agricultural zoning legacy is actually what made it possible for Cyrus to establish itself here.
Then Chef-Owner Douglas Keane's presentation of the gazpacho course exemplified their attention to detail – traditionally made but hung for 48 hours in the walk-in, allowing it to clarify naturally into an elegant, rose-colored consommé while maintaining its full flavor. The following courses celebrated the peak of garden season, including their "Goddess in the Garden" micro salad, which cleverly referenced the original Green Goddess dressing created at San Francisco's Palace Hotel in 1923. The creamed sweet corn dish showcased their innovative techniques – cooking the corn quickly with butter and chive, layering it over chilled egg custard (tamago tofu), and finishing with kimchi "dippin' dots" created using liquid nitrogen.
Watch the chefs welcome us to the restaurant and explain these courses and their preparation:
Just as the chefs described, the courses flowed seamlessly from one innovative creation to the next. From the kimchi "dippin' dots" adorning the Tamago Dofu with creamed corn and oyster, through refreshing plays on summer flavors with Watermelon-Plum and Melon-Avocado compositions, to a perfectly balanced Fermented Carrot Tartlet, each dish showcased both technical precision and seasonal inspiration:
Next came one of Cyrus's most iconic dishes - their playful yet sophisticated take on an Oreo cookie. Chef Keane personally presented this "Oreo" Foie Gras Torchon to our table, explaining how black garlic and cherry complement the rich torchon. Here he is sharing the dish with Lily:
The kitchen progression culminated in a single, perfect bite of A5 Wagyu. Accented by bright Meyer Lemon Kosho and a delicate Umeshu Consommé, this wasn't just another luxury beef offering – it was the kind of transcendent morsel that makes you question everything you thought you knew about wagyu:
The 2022 Do Ferreiro Albariño from Rías Baixas served with these bites was particularly memorable, not just for its intensity but for its story - sourced from 200-year-old vines on a tiny 1.5-hectare plot.
THE MAIN COURSES TAKE CENTER STAGE
Our favorite part of the evening unfolded in the main dining room, where floor-to-ceiling windows framed the vineyard views, and conversation flowed as naturally as the wine. We learned that Lily is an orofacial myofunctional therapist, leading to a fascinating discussion with Dio about healthcare that sparked a friendship extending well beyond this evening.
Also, Adrian surprised me with a kind invitation to join him at Raymond Burr Vineyards later that week to witness their first use of a newly installed Italian bottling system! That’s exactly the kind of unexpected insider experience that makes wine country so special. Look for a blog post about that visit coming soon!
Our ornate meal continued with a sobacha-infused epi (a type of French baguette) and house cultured butter. Next was Yukon Gold potato with husk cherries, sea beans and togarashi nage.
The 2020 Sphaerics Chardonnay if and only if (from Alexander Valley) made for an interesting pairing here ― a first vintage from 50-year-old vines. It was particularly special to try this with Adrian at the table, as he knows the winemaker, Brian, personally.
Next was the the Crispy poussin with caponata and fairytale eggplant (this course brought an exciting wine pairing duo: my contribution of 2019 Charles Heidsieck Ambonnay Rouge with its stunning minerality, alongside a 1998 Domaine de Ferrand Châteauneuf-du-Pape, aged in concrete and showing beautiful complexity).
And finally, a short rib with Gazpacho puree, squash and green tomato that I’ll call “a short rib that made time stand still,” served with 2012 Radio-Coteau Syrah Dusty Lane that easily proved itself the WOTN (wine of the night), creating one of those perfect pairing moments that make fine dining so magical.
POPCORN, SAKE, CARAMEL AND SORBET? YES, PLEASE!
Just when most meals of this scope would have ended, the dessert progression began!
First up was a blackberry and tonka bean sorbet with pink peppercorn verjus, which was paired with a Katafune Junmai Ginjo Genshu sake. This combination was a revelation. It was unlike any sake I’d ever had before, and earned a solid 95 points in my book.
Next, we were served ”Popcorn” with corn financier cake and yellow peach, which was served with a 2016 Szepsy Tokaji Szamorodni. As far as I’m concerned, this was the evening’s best pairing, and the sommelier explained to us how the winemakers carefully pick out individual noble rot-affected grapes rather than whole clusters, which results in incredibly complex flavors reminiscent of my favorite Oremus Tokaji.
You can find my detailed tasting notes (including scores) on CellarTracker in “Flight 4” of my tasting story.
A selection of bite-sized desserts arrived next, each hitting a different taste note: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami, bringing the meal full circle from our opening bites in the Bubble’s Lounge.
Five final bites that tell the story of our journey
THE FINAL ACT
This amazing evening concluded in a space they call the Chocolate Room where we were immediately greeted by the dramatic sight and sound of a chocolate waterfall cascading down the wall.
After enjoying cups of rich hot chocolate, we were served a sobacha and golden sesame crunch bar made with koji caramel. It was presented in a brown, elegantly minimalist box that seemed appropriate, given the sparse-yet-luxurious vibe of the entire event.
By the way, remember when I mentioned that in a former life, this building used to be a Sunsweet prune packing plant? Crazy, huh? Now it’s one of the finest restaurants we’ve ever had the pleasure of attending.
I’m serious when I say that. This meal was fairly mind-blowing, and Dio and I agreed that we were lucky to have enjoyed Cyrus now when it has only one Michelin star, because this meal easily deserved three stars, and to date stands as our favorite Michelin starred restaurant in the U.S..
Up next, our High Museum Wine Auction Napa Cultivation Trip continues with a bevy of official meetings and tastings…
