Atlas Atlanta: A Historic First Star
Sometimes the most significant milestones happen right in your own backyard. That was certainly the case when the Michelin Guide finally turned its discerning eye to Atlanta's dining scene in 2023. My wife Dio and I were fortunate enough to attend the inaugural MIchelin Guide Ceremony at the historic Rialto Theatre in downtown Atlanta, where we witnessed firsthand as our city's culinary excellence received long-overdue recognition. Among those earning their first star was Atlas, and we couldn't wait to experience their Chef's Tasting Menu as a newly minted Michelin-starred establishment.
THE SETTING
Located in the St. Regis Atlanta, Atlas has long been known for combining culinary artistry with one of the city's most impressive wine programs. For this special evening, we each approached the menu differently - Dio opted for the Chef's Tasting Menu in its original form, while I chose the same menu with modifications to accommodate my seafood/shellfish allergy, along with their mid-tier "Timeless Wine Pairing" (they also offer an entry-level "Classic" and a premium "Grand Cru" option). The staff's immediate assurance that they could easily accommodate both my restrictions and Dio's gluten allergy while maintaining the integrity of the experience was our first indication of the level of service we could expect.
A quick note about the photos you'll see throughout this post - most are courtesy of Dio, which is why you'll see beautiful shots of her seafood courses but not some of my alternative dishes!
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
The moment we walked in, we couldn't miss the proud display of their newly earned Michelin star - that iconic red emblem we'd seen awarded just weeks before at the Rialto ceremony. It was a powerful reminder of the historic moment Atlanta's dining scene is currently experiencing.
THE MENU BEGINS
The evening started with an array of playful "Snacks" that set the tone for the night ahead. A collection of small plates featured some incredible mini pizzas dotted with olives, alongside other delightful bites. A bed of ice held vibrant slices of watermelon, adding a refreshing element to this opening medley.
Moving into the first course proper, Dio savored the Kristal Caviar complemented by otoro and dashi, while I enjoyed an elegant avocado salad. My Timeless Wine Pairing began with the NV Robert Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Grands Blancs. The wine showed a light gold color with green apple and honey on the nose, though I found it carried a slightly bitter finish when tasted on its own. The somm mentioned it had been aged for four years. The pairing with my avocado salad was just okay - both elements seemed better on their own than together.
A WALDORF REIMAGINED
Next came their interpretation "A Waldorf Salad of Sorts," which cleverly incorporated apple, grape, and candied poupon, all served with endive. For this course, I was served a 2022 Château Soucherie Anjou Cuvée Les Rangs De Long. This Loire Valley white was fascinating - aged in old oak with a remarkably transparent light gold color. The nose offered beautiful floral and lavender notes, while the palate delivered bright lemon characteristics with pleasant medium acidity. Interestingly, both the wine and the salad seemed to shine brighter independently than together.
SEASONAL SOPHISTICATION
The next course showcased the kitchen's versatility - Dio enjoyed the Squash with Sea Buckthorn and Lobster, while I received a beautifully composed butternut squash soup that proved to be absolutely amazing. My pairing was the 2022 Chêne Bleu Rosé, showing a transparent rose gold color with low acid on the palate. The wine really came alive with my soup - this pairing proved to be an excellent example of how the right food can elevate a wine - so much so that I raised my initial score from 88 to 90 points once I experienced them together.
THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE NIGHT
The evening reached its peak with their Hen's Egg dish, featuring parsley and morels. This course came paired with what would prove to be my Wine of the Night (WOTN) - a 2022 Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles. Showing a transparent light pear color both in appearance and on the nose, this young but impressive white Burgundy offered vibrant acidity and an excellent finish. The pairing created one of those magical moments where wine and food elevate each other to new heights.
FROM SEA TO LAND
For the next course, Dio enjoyed the Poached Halibut with Beets and Citrus, while I had a perfectly prepared chicken breast and carrot dish. My pairing was the 2020 David Duband Côte de Nuits Villages, showing a dark ruby red color and classic Burgundian earthy truffle and mushroom notes on the nose. With low tannins and generous fruit on the palate, it made for a decent pairing with my chicken preparation.
A TALE OF TWO BAROLOS
We both received the main course of Westholme Wagyu with Assorted Condiments. This extraordinary preparation proved to be my favorite dish of the evening - the meat was transcendent, displaying a perfect balance of flavor and texture. My wine pairing for this course a 2008 Demarie Barolo, served via Coravin. The timing of this pour was particularly interesting because just a month earlier, I'd experienced a spectacular 2008 Elio Grasso Barolo Riserva Rüncot that demonstrated exactly how magnificent this vintage could be. That wine had shown a dark brownish ruby red color with an wonderful aromatic nose of red fruit and black pepper. Even with its age, it was wonderfully balanced with fully resolved tannins and beautiful strawberry notes.
Unfortunately, this 2008 Demarie was an entirely different story. Showing signs of either improper storage or being past its peak, it arrived with a brownish-red color and an overwhelming tobacco nose that dominated any fruit characteristics. The wine was barely drinkable - a stark contrast to the elegance I'd found in the Grasso just weeks before.
What happened next demonstrated exactly the kind of service you hope for at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Without any prompting from me, our somm immediately recognized the issue and proactively offered me a complementary pour of 2018 Bodegas y Viñedos Alión Ribera del Duero. This young but impressive Spanish red showed a dark purple/red color and while quite tannic, proved to be an excellent addition to our evening.
THE SWEET FINALE
The progression of desserts began with an Apple Trifle featuring Calvados Foam and Lemon Sorbet, followed by the FM Rocher with Vanilla, Hazelnut, and Chocolate. My final wine pairing was the NV Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Savannah Verdelho Special Reserve, showing a dark amber color with alcohol notes. I should note that I typically prefer dessert wines with lower alcohol content and more pronounced minerality, so I'm probably not the best judge of Madeira-style wines. While the pairing was adequate, it was actually the earlier Alión that created more a compelling match with these dessert courses for me.
THE FINAL VERDICT
Our first experience at a Michelin-starred Atlas offered much to appreciate, particularly in terms of their food execution and wine program. The kitchen clearly demonstrated why they earned their star, not just through their standard menu but also in their ability to seamlessly accommodate dietary restrictions without compromising on creativity or quality. The sommelier team showed both expertise in their pairings and grace in handling service issues.
If I were to offer one critique, it would be about the atmosphere. As the evening progressed, the noise level from the bar area became increasingly intrusive, somewhat diminishing the refined dining experience we'd hoped for. Having recently dined at Lazy Betty (another of Atlanta's newly starred restaurants), I found myself preferring their more intimate atmosphere.
That said, Atlas absolutely deserves its place among Atlanta's first Michelin-starred establishments. The food was excellent - both Dio's original menu items and my modified courses hit all the right notes. The wine list proved impressive, and the service - particularly in how they handled both dietary restrictions and wine service issues - demonstrated the kind of professionalism you expect at this level. For anyone looking to experience Atlanta's emerging fine dining scene, Atlas should definitely be on your list, and those with dietary restrictions can feel confident that they'll be well taken care of.
For my detailed tasting notes for each wine from this evening, you can find them in my CellarTracker notes below:
