Lazy Betty: Atlanta's First Stars Shine Bright

When the Michelin Guide finally arrived in Atlanta in late 2023, it marked a watershed moment for our city's culinary scene. My wife Dio and I were fortunate enough to attend the inaugural Michelin Guide Ceremony at the historic Rialto Theatre, where we witnessed firsthand as Atlanta's finest restaurants received their well-deserved recognition. Among those earning their first star was Lazy Betty, helmed by the incredibly talented Chef Ron Hsu.

THE ANTICIPATION BUILDS

Having met Chef Ron at the ceremony (what an impressively humble and passionate chef!), we knew we had to experience his newly-starred restaurant for ourselves. We quickly secured a reservation at their original location in the Candler Park neighborhood of Atlanta - which makes this review particularly special, as they've since relocated to Midtown Atlanta in the former Empire State South space.

One of the unexpected perks? The restaurant was just minutes from our house, proving that sometimes culinary excellence can be found right in your own backyard.

THE EVENING BEGINS

The intimate dining room immediately set the tone for what would be an engaging evening. We both opted for the seven-course tasting menu, with me adding the wine pairing. The staff's attention to detail and quiet confidence spoke volumes about why they'd earned that coveted star.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Our evening began with thoughtfully composed "snacks" that immediately demonstrated the kitchen's attention to detail and ability to accommodate dietary restrictions. My starter featured a beautifully crafted pastry topped with pistachios, served alongside a delicate sphere of house-made custard. Dio's gluten-free variation arrived as an elegant trio of bites artfully presented on a grid-patterned mat: a fresh cucumber preparation, a seafood creation, and a bright citrus composition featuring orange segments and microgreens.

These opening bites set the stage for what was to come. The wine service began with the NV Clos de La Briderie Crémant de Loire Brut Pureté de Silex, showing an almost transparent peach color. While the wine presented some initial bitterness on its own, it was paired with an elegant beet salad.

THE JOURNEY CONTINUES

Moving into the next course, we were presented with an intriguing pairing - the 2018 Tenute del Cerro Vin Santo di Montepulciano Fattoria del Cerro alongside foie gras. The wine showed a light gold color with fascinating petrol notes on the nose, though its high alcohol content was immediately apparent. While both elements were individually strong, the pairing felt like it was reaching for something it didn't quite achieve.

A PASTA INTERLUDE

The third course brought us to the 2021 Martha Stoumen Carignan Ricetti Vineyard from Mendocino County. The wine showed a dark purple color though surprisingly little expressiveness on the nose. While initially quite acidic and tangy when tasted alone, it found its footing alongside the pasta dish, where the food helped temper that tang - a good example of how the right pairing can elevate both elements.

WAGYU AND RHÔNE

Next came a delicate Australian Wagyu preparation that unfortunately met its match in the 2020 Domaine de Longue Toque Côtes du Rhône. The wine itself showed classic Rhône characteristics - dark ruby color, barnyard nose, and blue fruit notes with medium-high tannins. However, its robust nature overwhelmed the subtle flavors of the Wagyu, demonstrating how even good wines can make poor pairings if not properly matched to the dish.

AN UNEXPECTED SPARKLER

In an interesting twist, we were presented with the 2022 Carboniste Rouge Brut, a unique sparkling wine made from Merlot and Albariño. With its cherry cola color and relatively flat effervescence, it presented more like a carbonated fruit drink than a traditional sparkler. It was paired with a squash and tomato dish, creating an adequate if not memorable combination.

THE HIGH POINT

The evening reached its peak with what would prove to be both the best pairing and my Wine of the Night (WOTN) - the 2019 Tait The Wild Ride from Australia's Barossa Valley. Showing a brownish red color and classic Syrah characteristics, this wine managed to carry its 15+% alcohol with remarkable grace. Paired with a perfectly prepared lamb dish, it demonstrated exactly what a thoughtful wine pairing can achieve.

A REFRESHING INTERLUDE

Between our savory courses and dessert, the kitchen presented an elegant palate cleanser - diced honeydew melon alongside a delicate snow-like granita. This thoughtful pause in the progression helped reset our palates and provided a moment to reflect on the courses we'd enjoyed thus far.

This elegant transition piece perfectly set the stage for our final course.

A CHALLENGING FINISH

The dessert course arrived with the NV Barbadillo Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Cuco Oloroso Seco. Despite the wine's honey color and the kitchen's excellent chocolate dessert, the overwhelming alcohol presence on both nose and palate made this particular sherry virtually undrinkable for both Dio and me. While I've seen other critics score this wine quite highly, it's possible we received a compromised bottle, or perhaps this style simply doesn't suit our palates.

SWEET FINALE

Just when we thought the meal was complete, the kitchen presented a final flourish - an elegant plate of mignardises. The quartet of petit fours included a dark chocolate bonbon adorned with cocoa nibs, a pristine white marshmallow cube, and two amber-hued pâtes de fruits. These small bites provided a lovely conclusion to our evening, even if the accompanying Sherry hadn't quite hit the mark.

THE FINAL VERDICT

Our evening at Lazy Betty proved to be a study in contrasts. The food was absolutely stellar - every dish demonstrated why they earned that Michelin star. The atmosphere and service were equally impressive, creating an intimate fine dining experience that felt both special and welcoming.

However, I found myself somewhat challenged by the wine pairings. While each wine was interesting in its own right, the overall selection felt heavily weighted toward sparkling and dessert wines, with a noticeable absence of dry whites that might have better complemented certain courses.

That said, these are the kind of "problems" that demonstrate just how far Atlanta's dining scene has come - when we can debate the nuances of wine pairings at a Michelin-starred restaurant just minutes from our home, it's clear our city has arrived on the global culinary stage. We're looking forward to experiencing Chef Ron's cuisine at their new location, and to seeing how Atlanta's first generation of Michelin-starred restaurants continues to evolve.

UP NEXT

Keep an eye out for our upcoming posts about The Chastain, Atlas, and Little Bear as we continue to explore Atlanta's exciting new chapter in fine dining!

Until next time...