A Hidden Luxury Retreat and Michelin-Worthy Dining Experience Just an Hour from Atlanta
In late December 2024, I found myself looking back on what might have been the most remarkable culinary and hospitality experience I've ever had in Georgia — a three-part journey that combined world-class dining, luxury accommodations, and exceptional wines in a way that rivaled some of the best three-star Michelin destinations I've visited worldwide. The connection between Staplehouse in Atlanta and World of Quercus, an exclusive rural retreat just an hour south in Gay, Georgia, created something truly extraordinary. Over the course of several weeks, my wife Dio and I experienced multiple dimensions of this partnership, each building on the last in ways we couldn't have anticipated.
You know you've found something special when you find yourself comparing the experience not to other local restaurants, but to some of the world's most celebrated dining destinations. Yet here it was, practically in our backyard — a culinary adventure that included the best breakfast pancakes I've ever tasted, prepared and served by a Michelin-caliber chef directly in our private luxury suite, followed by stargazing in the Georgia countryside. Grab a glass of something special — I certainly did while writing this — and let me take you through what might just be Georgia's most impressive food, wine, and hospitality experience.
THE BEGINNING: AN UNEXPECTED CONNECTION
Our connection to this story actually began months earlier, at a wine pairing dinner in May 2024 at Atlas. That's where Dio and I first met Angelos and Chiara, the visionary owners behind Quercus who are part of the Visconti di Modrone family. They were friends of friends who thought we might have a lot in common, and they couldn't have been more right. Over several bottles of wine, including some special ones I'd brought to share, we discovered our shared passions for wine, food, and travel.
The location of their property was both a surprise and a bit confusing – Gay, Georgia - since I’ve lived in Georgia my entire life and was not familiar with this town. During dinner, while they were describing the property, I discreetly pulled out my phone and did a quick search under the table. I was surprised to discover it was only about an hour south of Atlanta, yet it could be worlds away! The Visconti di Modrone family has owned this land since the 1970s, and now they are transforming it into something extraordinary, complete with a partnership with Chef Ryan Smith and the acclaimed team from Staplehouse.
The next morning, still intrigued by what we'd heard, we joined their email list and patiently waited for World of Quercus to open (which they did in Septeber 2024!)
FIRST TASTE: AN EVENING WITH MOM AT STAPLEHOUSE
Although Staplehouse has been an Atlanta fixture for many years, we'd never dined there. We'd been trying to schedule a dinner at Staplehouse with friends for months, but finding a mutual date proved elusive. And then, surprise! Staplehouse gets awarded a Michelin star! While that is truly amazing for them, it made scheduling even more challenging for us as suddenly most nights were completely sold out. We finally managed to grab two seats for Friday, November 29, 2024. When the day arrived, however, Dio wasn't feeling well. Not wanting to miss the opportunity, I invited my mom to join me instead.
Before I continue with what turned out to be an extremely memorable evening, let me share some important background that will come into play later in our story. Interestingly, we ran into Angelos and Chiara again a couple of weeks earlier at the GCAPP (Georgia Campaign for Adolescent Power & Potential) charity event at the Fox Theatre in Atlanta. When Angelos found out we'd be trying Chef Smith's food at Staplehouse before visiting Quercus, he made a fascinating suggestion – do the wine pairings at both and also bring my own wine to Quercus and compare the experiences. He also shared that Staplehouse used to offer a 15-16 course dinner format years ago, but had transitioned to a more approachable 6-course menu. At Quercus, he explained, Chef Smith was now doing that previous more elaborate format. An intriguing culinary evolution for us to witness firsthand. Additionally, Angelos gave us some excellent recommendations for our upcoming trip to London and the Cotswolds, which we were able to incorporate into our itinerary!
Now, back to our Staplehouse experience!
At the beginning of the meal, Kara, one of Staplehouse's owners who's also involved with Quercus, came to our table. She already knew we were booked for a stay at Quercus and warmly welcomed us. Her enthusiasm was contagious as she shared details about their partnership and the shared vision between the two venues. She was particularly excited that we were experiencing Staplehouse for the first time and would soon be visiting Quercus, getting to witness both sides of their culinary collaboration in such a short period of time.
My mom had never experienced this style of dining before – the kind where you put yourself entirely in the chef's hands in an intimate, communal setting. As Angelos suggested, we both opted for the wine pairing, and watching her face light up with each new dish, presentation, and perfectly matched wine was perhaps even more enjoyable than the exceptional food itself.
I didn't take my normal amount of pictures, videos and notes because I just wanted to enjoy this rare moment with my Mom. But, here are a handful of pictures of the notable wines and standout dishes from the evening:
The six-course meal with wine pairings was nothing short of extraordinary, but what I remember most vividly was my mom's reaction. "I've never experienced anything like this," she told me afterward, referring not just to the food but to the whole communal dining experience. It would turn out to be one of her favorite evenings ever.
HOW TO FOLLOW A TOPPLED CHRISTMAS TREE? LUXURY IN THE WOODS!
After a hectic few weeks in November that included our 10th anniversary trip to London, the Cotswolds, and Bray, followed by a crazy week of meetings and holiday preparations back in Atlanta, World of Quercus was exactly the break we needed. Though we didn't know it when we booked, this rural retreat would provide the perfect reset.
It was finally time for us to experience Quercus firsthand. Our plans got off to a slightly rocky start when our Christmas tree decided to topple over that Friday morning – if you've never experienced this particular holiday mishap, let me tell you, it's quite the time-consuming ordeal to address. We ended up leaving two hours later than planned, unfortunately missing our scheduled organic garden tour.
It was a one-hour drive from Atlanta to Quercus during rush hour and we arrived at 5pm. The last part of the drive was EXTREMELY rural. It was actually hard to believe we were so close to the big city. At the end of a gravel road, surrounded by nature, we met Allison – who would prove to be our extraordinary guide throughout the entire stay.
Her warm welcome included a refreshing drink that we later learned was Chef Ryan's creation – a sophisticated take on lemonade made with lemon, lime, sugar, and a hydrosol of basil and lemon verbena. Mario followed our golf cart with our luggage, the first hint at the attentive service that would characterize our entire stay.
Our home for the weekend was the Ember suite, a stunning 1-bedroom, 1.5-bath accommodation crafted from reclaimed wood. The attention to detail was immediately apparent in every aspect. Just a few examples: handwritten welcome notes accompanied our complimentary wines and Yeti tumblers, stunning floral arrangements featured plants harvested from the property, a wood-burning fireplace was meticulously prepped and ready to light, and artfully arranged bath salts awaited us beside the soaking tub. These were just a handful of the thoughtful touches that made the suite feel so special.
THE HOT POT EXPERIENCE: FARM-TO-TABLE REDEFINED
Our first evening set the tone for the entire stay. Having arrived in a celebratory mood, finally escaping the city at last, we opened a bottle of 2020 Paul Hobbs Russian River Valley Blanc de Noirs we'd brought along (acquired earlier that year at a Paul Hobbs event - you can check out that post HERE). I scored this impressive sparkler 93 points for its perfect balance and bright character. Just as we were settling in front of our first crackling fire of the weekend, Allison arrived with Chef Ryan and Chef Jake, bearing what would be an extraordinary hot pot dinner.
Chef Ryan explained that the foundation of this meal was a tonkatsu-style broth made from red waddle pigs raised right there on the property. The pork shoulder had been dry-rubbed and smoked before being added to the broth, which was then finished with aromatics from their garden – galangal, garlic, onions, and tamari. The accompanying ingredients showcased both the chefs' creativity and the property's bounty: blue rice from Charleston, spring onions preserved in olive oil with jalapeño relish, charred turnips alongside pickled ones, roasted kabi with arugula, mixed greens, roasted carrots with white sesame, and dahlia tubers and petals.
We had fun comparing two sparkling wines with this feast – the Paul Hobbs which paired beautifully with the pork and vegetables and a welcome gift from the owners, a NV Alessandra Divella Blanc de Blanc Dosaggio Zero Vino da Tavola. In my tasting notes, the Divella earned a respectable 89 points, offering interesting almond notes but proving a bit heavy for me for the food pairing.
After dinner, despite the cold, we ventured outside and were treated to a breathtaking sight: hundreds and hundreds of stars dotting the night sky. Living in Atlanta, where light pollution obscures almost everything above, this was particularly special - I realized the last time we'd seen stars like this was during our trip to Newport years ago. It was a powerful reminder of just how close, yet how far from the city we truly were.
With the fire still crackling, we spent some time relaxing in our suite and actually planning our upcoming Milan trip, booking restaurants and events for what would be our next adventure in late December. There's something perfectly decadent about planning one trip while in the middle of another.
A DAY OF DISCOVERY: BREAKFAST, MASSAGES, AND CLAY SHOOTING
The next morning began with an in-suite breakfast that completely redefined what a room service breakfast could be. Chef Ryan personally prepared and delivered a spread that showcased the same level of expertise and attention to detail you'd expect from his dinner service. The perfectly prepared eggs, thoughtfully arranged fresh fruit, and other items managed to be both healthy and satisfying while maintaining the sophistication you'd expect from a Michelin-starred chef. It was, without question, the finest "room service" breakfast I've ever experienced – though calling it room service feels almost disrespectful to what was essentially a private breakfast prepared by one of America's most talented chefs.
Following breakfast, we enjoyed in-suite massages with Mei from Wholē Shift (formerly Meissage), who had traveled from Brookhaven for our treatments. Her work was so impressive that Dio has since become a regular client at Mei's Brookhaven studio.
We took our golf cart over to what they call "the Cottage" for lunch, where we encountered Angelos and his dogs. It was the perfect opportunity to thank him in person for those Cotswolds recommendations that had so enhanced our recent UK trip. The building itself has a fascinating history – Allison explained that it had been moved from Virginia by the original owner, with subsequent expansions adding a library and bar area. The original hardwood floors tell a story all their own.
Lunch was a masterful take on Korean kimbap, featuring smoked beef short rib, fermented turnips, raw carrots, a Korean-style omelet, and pickled jalafuego peppers – all vegetables grown in their garden. A side salad was dressed with a smoked tomato vinaigrette that made even simple greens memorable.
After lunch, we had our rescheduled garden tour with Wes and his family. We sampled freshly picked strawberries and discovered kohlrabi, a "German turnip" that, despite my German heritage, I'd never encountered. Learning that they supply produce to Staplehouse added another layer of connection between the property and Atlanta's fine dining scene.
Next came clay shooting with Mike at Big Red Oak Plantation, just a quick few minutes drive from Quercus. Mike's patience and skill helped Dio become comfortable with the sport during her first time shooting. Both our shoulders were still feeling it days later — perhaps we should have scheduled the massage after the shooting!
After clay shooting, we weren't quite ready to head back to our suite, so we took the golf cart and explored more of the property on our own. We meandered through the pecan grove, circled the ponds, and truly got a sense of just how vast and beautiful this land is.
WHEN A FARM DINNER OUTSHINES THREE MICHELIN STARS
As evening approached, we found ourselves at Uberto restaurant, currently open only to Quercus guests though there are plans to welcome the public in 2025. Housed in a beautifully renovated barn, the restaurant would prove to be the setting for one of the most remarkable dining experiences of my life. We were the only diners that evening, with Allison orchestrating a service that rivaled any we've experienced.
The wine pairings began with a NV Tarlant Zero Brut Nature Champagne that I rated 91 points, a zero dosage traditional method sparkler made with Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. This was expertly paired with opening "snacks": chewy carrots that had been raisinated and compressed in carrot top vinegar with pistachio and lemon balm puree, beef tartare in a fermented aji dulce puree with cured egg yolk fluid gel, and venison bresaola.
A 2023 Nanclares y Prieto Albariño Pergola Dandelión from Rias Baixas, Spain came next, which I awarded 91 points for its fascinating complexity derived from its unique growing method on pergolas and the salty air influence from Spain's northwest coast.
The wine accompanied two stunning dishes: first, a Kabocha squash prepared as an eggless custard with gently cured Hudson Valley foie gras, raw squash dressed with nasturtium oil and citrus, and fresh nasturtium. This was followed by pork belly from a younger pig, cooked with kimchi juice and served with fresh bok choy stems, emulsified butter, lemon and garden greens.
A 2022 Weingut Willems-Willems Saar Riesling 'Auf der Lauer' feinherb from Germany's Mosel region followed. On my scale, this 91-point wine was poetically described by Allison as being "as elegant as Cinderella's slipper," and shared that it's made by a fifth-generation female winemaker. The Willems-Willems showed just a touch of sweetness with classic lemony petrol notes on the nose and a bright tang on the palate.
This Riesling accompanied two innovative dishes. First came Asian eggplant that had been preserved from late summer – peeled, brined, and poached in beef fat, then grilled and lacquered with honey from the property and rolled in puffed quinoa. It was served with a powder of matcha and moringa, lemonquat, and a gel made from onion blossom vinegar. Even more impressive was the fact that the plate itself was crafted from 100% natural materials from the property.
The second pairing was a creative take on chicken noodles – a green curry featuring noodles made from chicken and tapioca, with a clarified curry made using aromatics from the garden, and an ingenious preparation of chicken breast pressed into skin chips.
Moving to reds, Allison presented a 2022 Constant Crush Wine Gamay Noir Limited Addition from Eola Springs Vineyard in Oregon's Willamette Valley, a bright, vibrant wine that earned 90 points in my tasting notes. She explained that Gamay is currently the most rapidly expanding varietal in the Willamette Valley as producers look to diversify beyond Pinot Noir. With its pomegranate notes and virtually no tannins, the Constant Crush paired beautifully with smoked beets that had been cured, marinated in burnt garlic oil, smoked, finished in the oven, and slightly dehydrated to create an almost meat-like texture. The dish was complemented by service berry vinegar, an aromatic milk sauce with horseradish emulsified with beef tallow, dill, and dill blossoms, alongside both sourdough rye and oat and rice bread.
The evening's pinnacle arrived with two Italian wines served side by side: a 2014 Massimo Clerico Lessona Riserva from Piedmont that I scored 90 points for its subtle complexity, and the 2021 La Caccia di San Giovanni Toscana IGT that I brought (following Angelos's recommendation to bring some special bottles for comparison) and rated 92 points in my notes.
These accompanied two remarkable meat courses. First was an incredibly rare cut of "Red American-raised Akaushi Wagyu" from an Alabama rancher who raises only 10 cattle per year. The beef was served with a sauce made from aged white tamari, strawberry vinegar, and beef fat. What made this course even more special was Chef Ryan graciously allowing us into the kitchen to watch them prepare it, AND allowing us to film the intricate plating process!
This was followed by venison that had been hunted on the property and dry-aged for two weeks. The saddle — both tenderloin and ribeye cuts — was rubbed with black pepper, rosemary, and juniper berries, accompanied by a potato macaire, a savory cake made with crème fraîche and rice flour, and grated pecans from the property's grove.
This venison was the best I've ever tasted.
Before dessert, we were served a non-alcoholic interlude - a refreshing Tulsi aromatic water (made from holy basil) that provided a perfect palate reset.
The dessert wine was a NV César Florido Moscatel Dorado from Jerez, Spain, made in the traditional solera system. I gave this intriguing wine 90 points for its sweet nose and balanced palate of grapes and quince, which complemented the upcoming series of dessert courses.
The first dessert to arrive was a composition of Hachiya and Fuyu persimmons with whipped honey from the property.
After Chef Smith served this delicate creation, a memorable exchange occurred that truly captured the spirit of the evening. "Is this the final dessert course or are there more?" I asked. "No, there's a couple other little things," Chef Smith replied. "Oh, okay," I nodded. Chef Smith smiled reassuringly, "Small ones and don't feel that you have to finish. It's all good..." Dio interjected with what would become the quote of the night: "When it's tasty, you need to finish it even though it hurts!" "I love that!" Chef Smith exclaimed, clearly delighted. I turned to Dio, "I think you've come up with the title of the blog post!" Everyone burst into laughter. "That's so great!" Chef Smith added, still chuckling.
The parade of desserts continued with a Meyer lemon sorbet seasoned with fermented aji dulce and olive oil, followed by a chocolate tort featuring both bittersweet and milk chocolate with a sunchoke and sunflower praline. The finale was a lemon verbena ice cream made from herbs grown in their garden – each dessert showcasing not just technical skill but a profound connection to the property itself.
Having dined at several three-star Michelin restaurants across Europe and the United States, I can say without hesitation that this meal at Uberto was among the very best I've experienced. If Uberto doesn't become Georgia's first three-star Michelin restaurant, it would be nothing short of a crime. Every component reached the highest possible level: Chef Ryan's extraordinary creativity and execution with property-sourced ingredients, the impeccable wine pairings, and the flawless service orchestrated by Allison all combined to create something truly exceptional.
PANCAKES WORTH WRITING HOME ABOUT (OR AT LEAST BLOGGING ABOUT)
Just when we thought Chef Ryan couldn't possibly top his previous breakfast, he managed to do exactly that. The next morning's in-suite breakfast featured what were honestly the best pancakes I've ever had, alongside more of that incredible fruit and bacon sourced from the property's pigs.
After breakfast, I relaxed in the room and worked on the blog while Dio had a wellness consultation with Chiara – a session that proved so valuable that Chiara has since become Dio's regular nutritionist.
As we prepared to depart, we discovered that Mario had quietly washed our car overnight and a thoughtful departure gift of the family's olive oil, made in Italy, was inside - one final example of the property's remarkable attention to detail. Check out the photos I took once we got home of both the olive oil (which is absolutely delicious!) and the custom Yeti tumblers they'd gifted us upon arrival.
While waiting for Dio to finish her consultation, I got to know Allison a bit better. Turns out she and her husband own a wine store in Charleston – a city Dio has never visited. We're now planning a trip there, with their store being a must-visit on our itinerary.
What struck me most about World of Quercus as we prepared to leave was their genuine commitment to doing things the right way. Every detail reflected this philosophy: the suites constructed with reclaimed wood, multiple buildings powered by solar energy, on-site filtered well water systems, and even dinner plates crafted from clay sourced directly from the property. This wasn't just some investment firm or luxury hotel company that came in, bought land and built a resort – this was family land they'd owned since the 1970s, and they were inviting us into their home. They're not just doing it right, they're redefining what "right" looks like.
CLOSING THE CIRCLE: RETURN TO STAPLEHOUSE
A few weeks later, we returned to Staplehouse, this time with friends Katie and Taylor who were able to join us at the last minute. Being seated next to the kitchen, we had a perfect view of the culinary artistry about to unfold.
Having done the wine pairing during my first visit with my mom, I decided to bring two of our own wines this time. Among them was the white Italian wine, 2020 Varramista Podere Cavallino Toscana IGT, that World of Quercus had gifted us in our room (Varramista is a winery in Italy that the Visconti di Modrone family is involved with), along with a recent discovery from earlier in the year – Dan Kosta's new project "Grail" (you can check out my blog post about that discovery HERE). Dan Kosta was previously known for his work with Kosta Browne fame.
The evening began with a wine from Staplehouse's list: a NV Almacita Chardonnay Brut from Argentina, which I gave 90 points for its pleasant profile. This 100% Chardonnay sparkler, aged for 24 months in oak, showed heavy melon notes and medium weight, pairing beautifully with the opening courses of house bresaola with cashew and finger lime, and a lonzino pie tee featuring cured pork loin and milkweed.
Next came the 2020 Varramista Podere Cavallino Toscana IGT that I brought, a wine I rated 91 points for its unique character, which showed a fresh farm green vegetable nose with medium tannins. It proved to be an excellent match for both the previous courses and the house beef tartare that followed, the latter dressed with radish, pressed pear, and apple. The restaurant surprised me with a complementary pour of 2022 Château de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé, a lovely wine I scored 91 points, which I had enjoyed at our first meal at Staplehouse and which also paired wonderfully with the tartare.
The next course featured roasted cabbage with popcorn butter and a bay leaf float. A favorite from that night and my first time at Staplehouse!
This was followed by one of the evening's highlights: carrots from the Quercus farm, poached in their own juice, grilled, and seasoned with vadouvan — a French-style curry that is aromatic rather than spicy. These were garnished with toasted cashews, cashew butter, and shaved carrot, accompanied by a tempura-fried sesame leaf.
For the main course, we opened the 2021 DK Grail Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard, which earned 93 points on my scale for its remarkable depth and complexity. The wine's nose practically jumped out of the glass, with some at our table noting dill aromatics while I picked up dark cherry and green bell pepper notes.
The Grail proved to be a perfect pairing for both the carrot dish and the Australian tri-tip wagyu that followed, which was served with an aerated beef fat foam, kale, and sunchoke. Our server was so kind to grab some video of this dish being prepared in the kitchen for my blog. Check it out!
Dessert brought a chocolate cake with apple, caramel, and opal lime crème fraîche, alongside a sorrel-compressed Granny Smith apple with an island-inspired composition of hibiscus, cinnamon, and ginger.
During this second visit, I took the opportunity to learn more about how they manage both locations. It turns out the operations aren't just between two fixed points – staff rotate between Staplehouse and Quercus as needed, creating what one server described as "multiple triangulations happening all over." Chef Smith acts as executive chef overseeing the menu and operations, while Chef Jake is his right-hand man, handling day-to-day operations and moving between the restaurant and farm. This team has been working together since the restaurant opened almost a decade ago, and that long-standing trust is evident in every aspect of the experience.
The meal was so impressive that the next day, our entire group returned for lunch on the back deck, where we discovered their pizza was every bit as amazing as their fine dining offerings.
REFLECTING ON THE JOURNEY: A PERFECT CULINARY COMPOSITION
What makes this partnership between Staplehouse and World of Quercus so extraordinary isn't just the individual elements – though each is exceptional in its own right. It's how everything works in harmony: the land, the architecture, the food, the wine, and most importantly, the people. From Atlanta to Gay and back again, there's a seamless flow of ingredients, inspiration, and expertise that creates something truly unique in the culinary world.
Looking back, I can't help but think of the entire experience as a perfectly composed tasting menu: my first meal at Staplehouse was the amuse-bouche, the Quercus stay with its various meals and activities formed the spectacular savory courses, and the return to Staplehouse provided the perfect dessert. In a year filled with extraordinary food and wine experiences, this sequence stands out as something truly special – proof that sometimes the most remarkable journeys take place right in your own backyard.