Mountain Majesty & Vineyard Mastery: Paul Hobbs Takes High Hampton
Nestled in the misty mountains of North Carolina, our recent weekend at High Hampton Resort offered an exquisite journey through the celebrated Paul Hobbs portfolio. Featuring vibrant Russian River Chardonnays and powerful Napa Cabernets and everything in between, this meticulously curated wine experience in September 2024 provided delightful discoveries that truly showcased why Hobbs is considered among America's winemaking elite.
RETURN TO THE HIGHLANDS
When my wife Dio and I first visited High Hampton in June for a weekend of wine, food, and friendship, we were immediately captivated by the property's stunning beauty and relaxed luxury. So when our friends from Austin mentioned they were organizing a Paul Hobbs wine event for September at the resort, we didn't hesitate. The chance to experience wines from Paul Hobbs – a producer I'd heard much about but never personally tasted – was too enticing to pass up.
Our anticipation built as the event was confirmed for Sept 13-14. The schedule promised a welcome reception at Doc's Bar on Friday, followed by a bubbly reception and a wine pairing dinner in the resort’s wine cellar on Saturday evening. We booked the same beautiful room that had provided breathtaking views during our first stay, eager to recapture that magic.
Arriving a few hours before Friday's welcome reception, I recorded a quick video from our deck overlooking the spectacular mountain vista, expressing my excitement about experiencing Paul Hobbs wines for the first time at this beautiful property.
FRIDAY NIGHT REVELATIONS
The welcome reception Friday evening proved to be the perfect introduction to the Paul Hobbs portfolio. We were greeted by our Atlanta friends who had driven up, along with our friends from Austin who have a residence at High Hampton. I also had the pleasure of meeting Paul Hobbs Winery Ambassador Tyson Ducker and Hospitality Manager Emery Bodell, who would guide us through our tastings.
The setup was beautiful – an impressive display of wines alongside artfully arranged charcuterie and cheese boards.
I started with the 2021 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay Russian River Valley, which earned 92 points from me for its tangy acidity and light character. Sourced from various vineyards throughout the Russian River Valley, it made for a nice start to the evening.
Next came the 2022 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir West Sonoma Coast, which I scored 93 points for its rich, heavy profile and medium tannins. This blend from coastal vineyards showed more complexity than the single-vineyard pinot that followed, and ultimately became my favorite pinot of the entire weekend – so much so that I purchased a case. In my view, it offers exceptional quality for the price.
The 2021 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir George Menini Estate, which earned 92 points from me, represented the inaugural vintage from this vineyard near Sebastopol. It was explained that Paul Hobbs particularly loves this site, which was originally an apple orchard before being planted to vines in 2015/2016. Though enjoyable with its tobacco, mushroom, and earthy notes, I found this wine fairly tannic for a young pinot. Unfortunately, it also wasn't available for purchase.
Finally, we sampled the 2021 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville, which I rated 92 points. It was a young, tannic expression with dark fruit and blackberry notes on the nose. I initially gave it 91 points on its own, but it improved to 93 points when paired with the charcuterie, highlighting the importance of food pairing with young, tannic wines.
During this reception, our Austin friends surprised us with an invitation to join them at their table for the Austin Rare & Fine Wine Auction Gala in November. After checking our calendars, we enthusiastically accepted, excited to share more wines and experience a wine auction beyond our familiar Atlanta High Museum Wine Auction.
SATURDAY SUNSHINE AND SHARED BOTTLES
Saturday offered us time to relax and enjoy the property before the evening's main event. We had lunch with our friends on the terrace outside the pro shop – coincidentally the same area where we'd attended Drew Bledsoe’s wine tasting during our first visit to the resort.
I'd brought along some special bottles to share with our friends: a 2022 Talley Vineyards Grenache from Arroyo Grande Valley, earning 91 points from me, which showed a very light color with no tannin and fruity character after 30 minutes of opening, and a 2009 Viña Vik Champagne La Piu Belle, which I scored 92 points. It was a complex, heavy champagne that took several minutes to open up, revealing nutty and apricot notes.
PRELUDE OF BUBBLES
Saturday evening began with a sparkling wine reception just outside the Inn’s wine cellar. While mingling with our friends and other attendees, we enjoyed the 2020 Paul Hobbs Blanc de Noirs from Russian River Valley, which I rated 93 points for its light, refreshing character and lemon peel notes. This impressive sparkler outshone the Vik Champagne I'd brought earlier in the day, and I made sure to add some to my cellar.
A CELLAR TRANSFORMED FOR DINING
After the reception, we moved into the wine cellar, where a magnificent long table had been set for our dinner. The room exuded rustic elegance, with walls lined with bottles, soft lighting from pendant fixtures, and beautiful table settings.
Leanne, High Hampton's groups and events manager, welcomed everyone warmly, emphasizing the special connections that make High Hampton unique – "friendships and delicious food and amazing wine around a table."
Then Tyson from Paul Hobbs shared the remarkable story of Paul Hobbs: his farming family roots as the second of eleven children, his chemistry studies at Notre Dame, his pioneering work at Robert Mondavi's Opus One, and his revolutionary impact in Argentina as "the father of modern Malbec." He described how Hobbs launched his own label in 1991, building an impressive portfolio of single-vineyard wines that has expanded to include properties across California, Argentina, and beyond.
If you'd like to hear the full fascinating history of Paul Hobbs – including how he transitioned from aspiring astronaut to winemaking legend – check out Tyson's complete presentation:
GARDEN BEGINNINGS
Our culinary journey began with a vibrant Garden Green Salad featuring shaved vegetables, smoked onion jam vinaigrette, and toasted sunflower seeds, paired with the 2022 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay George Menini Estate from Russian River Valley. This wine earned 93 points from me for its good acidity, citrus and honeysuckle notes, and fresh, bright character with mineral undertones.
Tyson explained that Paul purchased this site, formerly a Gravenstein apple orchard, in 2013. The cooler location, about half an hour from the ocean, creates a distinctive expression. The vineyard's namesake, George Menini, had farmed Gravenstein apples on this land for 60 years before passing away at age 90, literally among his beloved trees. Paul then planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the site. This 2022 vintage represented only the second release of this wine.
The wine's bracing crispness and mineral notes perfectly reflected the cooler climate of the George Menini estate. This was my favorite white of the weekend and impressed me enough to purchase a case for my cellar.
A FARMHOUSE CLASSIC WITH A TWIST
Our second course featured Bell & Evans Chicken with tempura okra flower, kale purée, farro verde, and grilled okra, paired with the 2017 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Katherine Lindsay Estate Vineyard from Russian River Valley.
Tyson shared the significance of the Katherine Lindsay Estate – Paul's home vineyard named after his beloved great-grandmother, whose apple farm had inspired his farming roots. Located in Sebastopol about half an hour from the ocean, the estate experiences dramatic daily temperature shifts of 50-60 degrees as cold fog is pulled inland during the night. This vineyard sits "on the very back end where the most profound part of the fog happens," creating perfect conditions for growing exceptional Pinot Noir.
What makes this 14-acre site particularly fascinating is its three distinct soil types: one area with fragments of ancient shells, another with sandy "goldridge" soil that imparts fruit-forward characteristics, and a unique red iron-rich soil that contributes earthiness to the wine. The 2017 vintage was notably fruit-driven due to the heat of that growing season.
Unfortunately, this particular bottle, sourced from High Hampton's cellar (as Paul Hobbs wines typically sell out upon release), showed signs of being compromised. Despite a wonderful earthy mushroom nose, the finish showed excessive alcohol and muted fruit was inconsistent with what others at the far end of the table were experiencing with their pours. Bottle variation happens even with the finest wines, and this singular experience did nothing to diminish our enthusiasm for the overall event.
A TASTE OF NAPA ROYALTY
The third course brought Braised Short Rib with acquerello rice, toasted walnuts, and chanterelle mushrooms, paired with 2020 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard from St. Helena. According to our host, the fruit was picked before the second fire of 2020, avoiding smoke taint. The wine showed medium-high tannin and high acidity, with a nose that seemed slightly off to me and noticeable alcohol on the finish. I also did not note any type of smoke taint notes. I rated it 90 points on its own, improving to 91 points with food. Having tried several Dr. Crane Cabernets from different winemakers across various vintages, I found this my least favorite – likely reflecting the challenging 2020 vintage rather than the winemaker's skill.
Tyson provided fascinating context about the Beckstoffer vineyards, explaining how Andy Beckstoffer revolutionized Napa Valley viticulture after arriving in 1970. Originally a finance expert sent to advise Beaulieu Vineyard, Beckstoffer realized the real value lay in land ownership. By the late 1980s, he had developed the concept of "pedigree sites" – purchasing small, exceptional vineyard plots along Napa's most coveted corridor and farming them to exacting standards.
Beckstoffer's genius was requiring wineries to put his name on their labels, ensuring that if multiple producers earned high scores from the same vineyard, the vineyard itself would gain the following rather than any individual winemaker. Paul Hobbs secured the first contracts at the first three Beckstoffer sites and earned the first 100-point score for a Beckstoffer wine.
The Dr. Crane vineyard is named for a historic figure from the 1860s considered the father of viticulture in Napa. The Beckstoffer portion that Hobbs sources from is particularly prized because it sits on well-drained gravel rather than deeper alluvial deposits, creating what Tyson described as "this kind of round supple, rich chocolatey cherry thing that happens with Crane."
THE CROWN JEWEL OF COOMBSVILLE
Our main course featured Simpson's Farm Tenderloin with pomme purée, wild mushrooms, and green peppercorn jus, paired with 2019 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Nathan Coombs Estate from Coombsville, which earned 93 points from me for its higher acidity and dark blueberry fruit notes.
Tyson explained the geographical significance of Coombsville's location within Napa Valley. Positioned near San Pablo Bay at the cooler southern end of Napa, with a volcanic caldera creating a natural barrier to the fog, Coombsville produces Cabernets with more pronounced black fruit and savory spice characteristics. The longer, later ripening season creates deeper flavors with higher acidity, giving the wines excellent aging potential.
Paul Hobbs was drawn to Coombsville after working with its fruit for Opus One blends, seeing its potential long before it became fashionable. He named the vineyard after the historical figure who founded the town of Napa. Just two weeks before our dinner, Paul received the first-ever 100-point score for a Coombsville wine from this very vineyard – a remarkable validation of his foresight in choosing this area.
After 30 minutes in the glass, this wine continued improving, creating a magnificent pairing with the tenderloin once I scraped off the excessive pepper that initially overwhelmed the wine.
SOUTHERN SWEETNESS WITH HISTORIC DEPTH
Our culinary finale featured Southern Coconut Cake with buttermilk frosting, paired with NV Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Baltimore Rainwater, which I gave 90 points.. Though not a Paul Hobbs wine, this selection provided a perfect conclusion to our meal.
The High Hampton Sommelier shared the fascinating history of this style, which was once America's most popular wine – Thomas Jefferson reportedly ordered 5,000 cases for his inauguration. This particular rainwater Madeira comes from the island off Madagascar that receives an astonishing 110 inches of annual precipitation (compared to Spring Mountain's 50 inches, the wettest AVA in California).
The wine's name remains "shrouded in mystery," possibly referring to barrels forgotten on the beachside and soaked with rain. Despite once being America's favorite wine, Madeira fell from prominence due to a "confluence of unfortunate events" including phylloxera, World War I, the Great Depression, and the advent of refrigeration.
With its slightly medicinal nose, butterscotch notes, and medium-thick texture, this Madeira paired beautifully with the coconut cake, which many guests declared the culinary highlight of the evening — including myself!
INSIDER INSIGHTS AND FUTURE JOURNEYS
After our memorable meal, our friends shared their enthusiastic endorsement of visiting Paul Hobbs Winery in person: "The food and wine tasting at Paul Hobbs is bar none to any three Michelin star restaurant in California," our friend told the group. "I can't even tell you how much detail they pay attention to from the way you walk in, to the sparkling wine that they serve, to whatever a amouse bouche they give you – everything is impeccably paired."
They recounted their first visit to Paul Hobbs, when they arrived an hour late after underestimating the time needed to cross the mountain. Despite strict timing policies, they managed to gain entry and thus began their love affair with this winery. Our friend described a particularly magical experience at a Harvest Moon dinner where the chef had soaked beef for 48 hours in "a very expensive bottle of wine" while music played and LED lights illuminated the grass "like the stars were in the ground."
Tyson joked that they had "officially forgiven" our friends for being late to their first visit all those years ago, a moment of levity that highlighted the personable nature of the Paul Hobbs team.
Chef Daniel and his team joined us at the conclusion of our meal to well-deserved applause. The chef shared an amusing anecdote about his mother in Florida, who now expects him to bring coconut cake whenever he visits: "The first conversation we have is not like, 'Hey, Daniel, how are you doing?' It's, 'Hey, you have any coconut cake?' I'm like, 'Yeah, I'll bring you some, how are you?'"
MOUNTAINS OF POSSIBILITY
Our Paul Hobbs weekend yielded treasures beyond the bottles – new friendships were formed, including an invitation to stay with people we met when we next visit Sonoma (already planned for October 2025), and plans were cemented to join our Austin friends at their wine auction.
After our wonderful dinner, we all headed back to our friends' house for more wine and fellowship, offering a perfect, relaxed conclusion to what had been an exceptional day of wine exploration.
As we departed High Hampton, gazing at the mountain backdrop one last time, I reflected on how wine continues to create connections that extend far beyond what's in our glasses. The Paul Hobbs weekend had introduced us to new wines, new friends, and new future adventures – the perfect trifecta for any wine enthusiast.
