Wine And Food Adventures in Austin? Count Me In!

Have you ever found yourself in the midst of an extraordinary experience, only to realize later just how remarkably special it truly was? That's precisely what happened during a recent weekend in Austin — a whirlwind adventure that delivered exceptional wines, Michelin-caliber dining, and the thrill of high-stakes bidding at one of Texas's most prestigious wine auctions.

As I sit here recollecting these vibrant moments while crafting this post, I'm struck by how much joy these wine-centered experiences bring into my life. After a brief publishing hiatus, I'm thrilled to be back sharing all of these adventures with all of you. The positive feedback I've received on recent posts has been incredibly motivating, and I'm committed to bringing you more consistent content moving forward. There's something uniquely satisfying about documenting these journeys — not just for my own memory, but in hopes that fellow wine enthusiasts might find inspiration for their own explorations. Whether you're a seasoned collector or simply curious about the world of fine wine, I hope these stories transport you to these remarkable events, if only vicariously!

First - some background: While we were at High Hampton Resort for a Paul Hobbs wine event (which you can read about here) at the opening cocktail reception, our friends who live in Austin, TX invited us to join them at their table at the Austin Rare & Fine Wine Auction Gala occurring in two months. I love Austin and have been several times, especially for the music scene, and since my wife Dio had never been to Austin, we checked our calendars quickly and said yes! We were so excited that we actually booked our flights that same weekend, determined to experience this prestigious event that combines exceptional wines with meaningful philanthropy.

While planning the trip, we started researching dinner options for our first evening in Austin. We discovered an article predicting which Austin restaurants might receive stars in Michelin's upcoming and first-ever ratings of the city. Based on this article, additional research, and our friends' enthusiastic recommendation (it's one of their favorite restaurants), we made reservations at Barley Swine for Friday night, November 1, 2024. This turned out to be an incredibly fortuitous choice, as you'll soon discover.

FRONT-ROW TO CULINARY THEATER AT BARLEY SWINE

Walking up to the restaurant, I was immediately struck by its casual, distinctly Austin vibe. This was worlds apart from the formal, white-tablecloth atmosphere typical of Michelin-starred establishments we'd visited. The rustic exterior with its wooden signage and warm lighting promised something different – a restaurant embracing the "Keep Austin Weird" ethos while delivering exceptional cuisine.

At the Chef's Counter, we had front-row seats to all of the action unfolding in the kitchen. Watching the chefs prep each course and tend to the wood fire grill became an integral part of our dining experience – dinner and a show, indeed!

The relaxed, super-casual atmosphere was a refreshing departure from typical high-end dining experiences. Dried herbs hung from the ceiling, fermentation jars lined shelves, and the open kitchen buzzed with focused energy. This laid-back environment, with chefs in simple t-shirts rather than starched whites, epitomized Austin's unpretentious approach to culinary excellence.

SYNERGISTIC PAIRING REALM: WINE PHILOSOPHY THAT ELEVATES

When our sommelier Stefan Davis arrived, I asked about their approach to pairings: traditional versus more daring. Stefan explained that Barley Swine offers two distinct tiers of wine pairings. The traditional pairing features wines that complement dishes in expected ways, while their premier pairing showcases hidden gems that most wine drinkers might not typically reach for.

He elaborated on their approach using the duck course as an example: "We pair it with Tintilla, another name for Graciano, typically used as a blending grape in Rioja. They're doing single-varietal Graciano down in Andalusia that adds this really cool, rustic character. It's very cost-effective because nobody knows what the hell it is, right? So that's kind of the name of the game. It's good for me, it's good for you, it's good for like the synergistic pairing realm, you know."

This philosophy of finding exceptional, unexpected pairings that don't break the bank perfectly aligned with my own wine experiences. "The most interesting pairings are often inexpensive wines I've never heard of," I told him. "The ones that run circles around a $200 wine."

"Those are my favorites," Stefan agreed. "There's nothing more satisfying than when people can't decide which pairing they prefer – the affordable hidden gem or the premium selection. That's a win for the guests and for us. We can use our sommelier brains to create mind-blowing pairings that don't have to break the bank."

Stefan's seven years at Barley Swine had clearly shaped this approach: "With premier pairings, we have more firepower and wiggle room with cost, but they're still beautiful wines that pair incredibly well with the food. Most wine drinkers don't reach for these because they lack the confidence to take that risk. We bring that to you."

The premier pairing it is!

TAKE THAT RISK: WINE JOURNEY BEGINS

Our first wine arrived: a 2021 Benanti Noblesse Brut from Sicily. Stefan provided fascinating context about this Mount Etna producer who works with indigenous varietals in site-specific vineyards. This particular sparkling wine is made from 100% Carricante, native to Sicily, and is quite unique – Benanti is one of the only producers making Carricante sparkling wine on the island, utilizing traditional method with secondary bottle fermentation for at least two years.

This exquisite sparkling wine scored 92 points on my personal scale and paired beautifully with our first course of leche de tigre with Sungold tomatoes. The wine's mineral-driven character, salinity, and bright fruit notes of apple and citrus highlighted the dish's vibrant flavors.

Next came the 2022 Weingut Keller Riesling RR, a wine grown in special red soil by the Rhine River. The "RR" stands for "Riesling on Red," referencing this special parcel of old vine Riesling grown in a distinctive red clay soil down by the River Rhine. While Keller specializes in dry wines, this particular vineyard always naturally finishes fermentation with residual sugar. The 2022 vintage was especially interesting as they had blended in fruit from their Grand Cru level vineyards.

I awarded this off-dry Riesling 92 points for its lime rind, candied ginger, and mineral tones that developed into beautiful honey notes on the finish. Stefan noted that the residual sugar adds complexity while opening up pairing possibilities with spicier foods – exactly what we needed for our Hiramasa aguachile dish.

HAPPY ACCIDENT: CHENIN BLANC DETOUR

The next wine presented was a 2018 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon, from a cult producer in a small sub-appellation of the Loire Valley. Savennières is known for making iconic age-worthy Chenin Blanc, and this particular vineyard derives its name from its butterfly-shaped outline. Baumard's winemaking philosophy centers on minimal intervention – using 100% stainless steel fermentation on the lees to retain the purity of the fruit.

I noticed the screw cap closure and asked about aging potential. Stefan explained that Stelvin closures are actually more reliable than cork for long-term aging, with a much lower percentage of compromised bottles. Despite its powerful structure (14.5% ABV) and aging potential, this wine receives just nine months of lees contact before release.

As Stefan was describing how this wine pairs beautifully with blackened cod and pressed apple, I reminded him that I can't eat seafood due to my allergies. He immediately realized the mix-up, switching me to a different wine for my upcoming quail dish while encouraging me to enjoy this pour in the meantime. "I got you!" he assured me with a smile.

This Chenin Blanc reached 90 points on my scale, showing baked yellow apple, beeswax, and savory herb characteristics, though I found it a bit too tart for my preference.

QUAIL AND EGGPLANT: HERITAGE TECHNIQUES SHINE

For the quail course, Stefan brought the 2020 Bodegas Luis Pérez Tintilla Balbaina, which I rated 90 points. This was the same Tintilla (Graciano) varietal he had mentioned earlier in his pairing philosophy discussion, typically used as a blending grape in Rioja but here made into a single bottling.

The wine underwent whole cluster fermentation in concrete vats, which opens up the softer qualities of the wine while making it more fruit-driven on the front palate. This technique beautifully balanced the wine's inherent characteristics of bramble fruits, stewed fruit, and fruit leather with a more approachable entry. The acidity and medium tannins created a rustic character perfect for game birds.

The "Fairytail Eggplant" dish showcased the kitchen's commitment to creative preparations while accommodating dietary needs. My dish featured eggplant with hot honey, while Dio's gluten-free version used rice tempura with a fish bone caramel glaze – both topped with toasted sesame seeds and cilantro stem.

The wood fire grilled quail from Belle Vie Farms was served with turnips and grilled turnip greens atop a mushroom sauce. The Tintilla's rustic character complemented the game bird beautifully with medium tannins, dark fruit notes, and subtle smokiness.

SHERRY AND DUMPLINGS: FORTIFIED SWEET SURPRISE

During our meal, we opted for a supplemental pairing of shitake mushroom pasta dumplings with a 1999 Casa Manoel Boullosa Carcavelos Quinta dos Pesos, which I scored 92 points.

Stefan shared insights about this wine from Carcavelos, the smallest appellation in Portugal known for fortified wines. This 1999 vintage is a blend of white, rosé, and red varietals, fermented nearly dry before being fortified with neutral grain spirit. The wine undergoes oxidative aging without being topped up, developing complex flavors ranging from salinity and nuttiness to buttered popcorn and butterscotch.

This fortified wine had a brownish-orange color with significant alcohol on the nose, but proved surprisingly smooth on the palate with honey notes and less perceived alcohol than typical sherry. While I didn't love it with the signature shitake dumplings and scrambled eggs dish, I saved some to try later with dessert – a much more successful pairing.

DUCK AND PINOT NOIR: SANTA RITA HILLS EXCELLENCE

Our next pairing featured the 2022 Dragonette Cellars Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, which reached 90 points on my scale. This highly regarded vineyard in Santa Rita Hills was planted in the early 1970s and has been farmed organically ever since. With only 300 cases produced for the 2022 vintage, this limited wine showcases Dragonette's attention to fermentation details.

The wine is made in a Burgundian style with whole cluster fermentation, yet the power of California fruit still comes through on the palate. With 13.9% ABV and some new French oak influence, it balances Old World technique with New World expression.

The Muscovy duck from Belle Vie Farms showcased technical precision in its preparation: breast seared and sliced into ribbons, and leg transformed into a mousseline terrine. The crispy duck skin crumble added textural contrast, while basil puree and a seasonal vegetable succotash of sweet corn, okra, and green beans completed the dish.

SUPPLEMENT DISCOVERIES WORTH THE SPLURGE

During our meal, we again tried two more supplemental dishes that turned out to be absolute knockouts. The foie gras completely blindsided me with its preparation — seared in duck fat with pickled green tomato and tomatillo jam, all perched atop a house-made masa tostada. I found myself literally setting down my fork mid-bite to declare it the best dish of the night so far. This wasn't your typical fancy foie preparation; it was something altogether more exciting and boundary-pushing. The rich, buttery liver melted on the tongue while the bright acidity of the pickled tomato and jam cut through that richness with laser precision.

The beef tartar was served atop a potato crisp with Hoja Santa, a fragrant herb common in Mexican cuisine that adds a distinctive anise-like flavor. The combination balanced rich flavor with textural contrast.

WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE: TEXAS BEEF & TUSCAN TRADITION

For our final savory course, our server presented the 2019 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino, which merited 92 points from my perspective. This white label Brunello uses 100% Sangiovese grosso and represents the traditional approach of this Montalcino producer founded in the 1970s.

The wine undergoes traditional aging in massive Slovenian oak casks for three years, followed by six months in bottle for settling. These enormous oak vessels impart subtle wood influence while allowing the wine to breathe, resulting in a muscular, brooding wine with savory elements that paired beautifully with the mushroom components of the dish. The Slovenian oak tends to be less assertive than French oak, giving the wine structure without overwhelming the fruit character, all while providing enough acidity to refresh the palate.

After being decanted for approximately 2.5 hours, the wine accompanied a spectacular trio of Akaushi beef preparations: a 40-day dry-aged ribeye with roasted eggplant puree, a skewer of rib cap meat with black garlic teriyaki glaze, and a smoked Akaushi rib with apple BBQ sauce.

The rib was the standout dish of the entire meal, inspiring me to start pairing Brunello di Montalcino with barbecue more often in the future!

SWEET ENDINGS WITH HISTORIC SPIRITS

Dessert brought a fascinating transition with the NV Rare Wine Co. Madeira Historic Series Boston Bual Special Reserve, which I rated 89 points. Stefan shared historical context about Madeira's significance in early America – it was once the country's most popular wine, with Thomas Jefferson reportedly ordering 5,000 cases for his inauguration.

Interestingly, the historic series reflects regional preferences from colonial America – northern colonies typically preferred sweeter styles of Madeira, while southern colonies favored drier styles. That's why this particular bottling, named after Boston, features the second-sweetest style in the lineup. The wine undergoes a slow cooking process over about 10 years in a warm attic adjacent to the fermentation room, gradually caramelizing the sugars.

The wine paired with a tarragon and Hoja santa Pavlova with pear sorbet, creating what our server described as "a pear-inspired root beer float" when consumed together.

An eggplant olive oil cake with 20-year tawny port frozen custard followed, and the evening concluded with chocolate pops – a playful end to our culinary journey.

We later learned that Barley Swine indeed received its first Michelin star just weeks after our visit, a well-deserved recognition that left us feeling privileged to have experienced it in the pre-Michelin era. After our visit, I suspect getting reservations will certainly become much more challenging!

TACO TREK: AUSTIN FOOD TOUR ADVENTURE

The next morning, we joined a food tour we found on Airbnb Experiences that conveniently began across the street from our hotel, the J.W. Marriott Austin. We've become absolute converts to Airbnb Experiences since discovering them on our 2023 Europe trip (which you can read about here) — they're just such a fantastic way to get local insights!

Our first stop on the Secret Food Tours Austin was Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que, which completely stole the show. The moment that perfectly smoked brisket hit my tongue, I knew we were in for something special.

After devouring our barbecue, our guide Pola led us to the beautiful oak-shaded back patio. "See that upstairs space across the street at 217?" she asked with a mischievous smile. "That was once the Travis Hotel — rumored to have been a cat house!" The history of Cooper's itself was just as colorful, beginning in 1953 when Tommy Cooper developed their signature "Big Chop" in Llano, Texas.

Pola then led us through several taco stops, including Veracruz All Natural, where we learned about the inspiring story of sisters Reyna and Maritza Vazquez. Growing up helping their mother in the family kitchen in Veracruz, Mexico, they saved enough to buy their first food trailer in Austin in 2008. Today, after years of hard work and perseverance, they operate five locations that have earned both local and national recognition for their fresh, authentic approach using organic ingredients. Their tacos were delicious!

We continued to Four Brothers Venezuelan Kitchen in a food hall, a concept we discovered is quite rare in Austin, for pulled pork sandwiches. We learned they're celebrating ten years of bringing Venezuelan flavors to Austin, growing from humble beginnings to become a beloved local institution.

Our taco journey continued at OneTaco, a business that began with two friends and one food truck searching for authentic Mexican tacos. Their commitment to high-quality ingredients helped them expand from that single truck to five brick-and-mortar locations throughout the city.

The tour concluded at JuiceLand for refreshing smoothies. This local favorite began in 2001 when founder Matt Shook took a summer job at a juice bar near Barton Springs Pool, eventually turning that experience into a thriving business focused on organic juices and community connections.

During our tour, Pola mentioned "Ranch Water" – an Austin original. Following her recommendation, we visited Ranch 616 afterward to try this signature drink, created by founder Kevin Williamson who used to sneak ice-cold tequila in his water jug on hunting trips. While the drink struck me as overly similar to a margarita for my taste, the live music created a quintessentially Austin atmosphere.

AUCTION PADDLES AND RARE TREASURES

Saturday evening brought us to the main event: the 38th Annual Austin Rare & Fine Wine Auction Gala, conveniently held in our hotel's ballroom. The auction's theme, "Toast. Feast. Give Back," reflected its mission to cultivate and invest in the wine and food community through education, appreciation, and enjoyment.

Upon arriving downstairs to register and get our paddle, I encountered my first glimpse of Texas' unique alcohol regulations. When I tried to drop off wine I'd brought to share at our table, I was stopped at the door by staff who explained that the event company has to legally take possession of my wine for me to drink it at the auction – an amusing loophole in a state's liquor laws that I hadn't encountered before.

The event began with a welcome reception featuring wines from featured winemaker Kathryn Hall of HALL Wines. She was also signing copies of her New York Times bestselling book "A Perfect Score", which chronicles her and husband Craig's twenty-year journey from amateur winemakers to recipients of perfect 100-point ratings from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

We also got our first look at all the auction lots, which immediately revealed a significant difference from our Atlanta High Museum Wine Auction experience. The Austin auction predominantly showcased wine collections from private cellars, with all bottles physically present at the event. In Atlanta, winning bidders typically receive their wines weeks or months later, but here in Austin, you'd take your prizes home that very night. This created a fascinating opportunity to see in person what Texas collectors were willing to part with for a good cause.

After the reception, we were the first to arrive at our table, soon joined by our friends and their other invited guests. Before the room filled with bidders and excitement, we took the opportunity to snap some photos of the elegant ballroom setup and grab a couple of pictures of ourselves. We were delighted to discover our table was at the front near the stage, giving us a perfect view of the auctioneer's podium. The location would prove advantageous once the bidding began, allowing us to clearly see the competitive action unfold. As more attendees began filtering in, we settled into conversation with our tablemates, eagerly anticipating the evening ahead.

I couldn't help but notice how many attendees displayed Texas pride through their attire – Texas flag ties, cowboy hats, boots, and other state-themed accessories were everywhere, showcasing the local enthusiasm for this prestigious event. Conversations about wine and travel flowed easily as we awaited the auction's start.

Since I'd never had any wine made in Texas — a gap in my American wine education — I posed a question to our tablemates that I assumed would lead to some local recommendations. "So what's the story with Texas wine? Should I try to grab a bottle off the wine menu, or did anyone bring any to share?"

The response was both immediate and unanimous, delivered with the kind of brutal honesty that comes from real wine lovers who happen to be locals. "Don't bother," came the collective verdict, accompanied by knowing head shakes. These weren't casual wine drinkers offering this assessment — these were serious collectors who live in Texas and have given their local products multiple chances over the years. Sometimes the most valuable wine advice is knowing what to skip! So that's one thing I can now confidently omit from my wine to-do list, based on the candid guidance of trusted palates.

The event began with acknowledgments of the presenting sponsors, followed by featured California winemaker Kathryn Walt Hall's speech. As co-proprietor of HALL Wines, WALT Pinot Noir, and BACA Wines, Hall shared her journey from being raised by a wine-growing father to becoming U.S. Ambassador to Austria and eventually returning to winemaking in 2001. Here’s just a small sample of the speeches:

As the auction proceeded, we enjoyed an array of exceptional wines that we had collectively brought to the share. Due to the social nature of the event and the lively conversations, I didn't record detailed tasting notes, but here's what I did manage to write down:

The 2023 Realm Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Fidelio earned 93 points from me. I brought this bottle, and it turned out to be the biggest hit among my contributions. Its bright acidity and clean fruit profile paired wonderfully with the antipasti spread of mixed olives, marinated vegetables, and aged cheeses that began our meal.

The 2019 Riise Wine JOVIAN from Paso Robles, scoring 92 points on my scale, was another bottle I brought. It was in the decanter for about 20 minutes before tasting and displayed explosive black fruit character.

My 2019 Charles Heidsieck Coteaux Champenois Ambonnay reached 93 points on my scale. Our table's sommelier laughed when opening this, confessing he'd once mistakenly chilled it thinking it was champagne. This still red wine showed beautiful earthiness complemented by red cherry notes, creating a perfect match with the beef tenderloin and creamy polenta Florentine main course. The wine's structure stood up beautifully to the rich meat while its acidity cut through the creaminess of the polenta.

I have say - the food throughout the evening was excellent and truly a highlight of the event. From the delicate burrata caprese first course to the decadent gianduja mousse dessert, each dish showcased thoughtful preparation that elevated the wine experience.

The 2021 La Caccia di San Giovanni Toscana IGT, which I scored 93 points, was opened immediately before serving and would likely have scored higher with more air.

As the auction continued, we experienced a surprising tradition: guests "stealing" wine from other tables to share. One of our friends circled the room and returned with a 1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape that he had "stolen" from someone else's table - apparently a common and acceptable practice at this event. This magnificent wine earned 94 points from me. I was then quickly stolen from our table! For this reason, I don’t even have a picture of it to share!

A friend at our table brought a 1990 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único, which I scored 94 points. This legendary Spanish wine showed a surprisingly youthful dark red color for its age.

We also had the opportunity to try some older Italian wines, including a 1968 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo scoring 92 points, which was a bit past its peak but still very nice with some fruit remaining, and a 1967 Giuseppe Contratto Barolo earning 91 points, which was also past its peak with more alcohol on the nose than the '68.

The evening's standout wine was a 2002 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese – scoring 95 points, this became the wine of the night. Even Dio loved this one, which is rare for a wine with residual sweetness.

Check out the video below, where you can not only see our table's impressive wine lineup but also hear Todd Kercheval, the auctioneer, working his magic in the background. This was his retirement auction after years of service, making it a special treat to witness his performance firsthand. The rapid-fire cadence of his voice immediately struck me as familiar – it sounded exactly like a livestock auction! When I mentioned this observation to our tablemates, they confirmed with knowing smiles that Todd was, in fact, a professional livestock auctioneer. Talk about authentic Texas flair! It was just one more way this Austin experience differed from our Atlanta High Museum Wine Auction – another perfect example of how local culture shapes these events, even when the focus is fine wine.

After reviewing the auction catalog on our flight, we had targeted two lots: the Dutch-style "A Seat at the Table" dinner at the home of board members Holly and Caleb Noel featuring rare wines like 1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil, and "A Perfect Finish" – a collection of premium dessert wines from around the world.

We successfully won both lots, expanding our dessert wine collection, an area I've largely overlooked in building my cellar. This purchase was a perfect opportunity to correct that gap in my collection – bringing home exceptional sweet wines spanning multiple regions, including treasures from Sauternes, Alsace, Vin Santo, Port, and Napa. The diverse range of vintages (from 1994 to 2019) and styles will make for fascinating comparative tastings for years to come.

FINAL TASTE OF TEXAS HOSPITALITY

The following day, before flying home, we enjoyed brunch at our friends' house, sharing stories and cementing plans for future wine adventures. Our final Austin stop was early dinner at In-N-Out Burger – a chain we typically enjoy in California during our frequent West Coast trips that's also available in Texas but not in Georgia – the perfect gastronomic last stop!

As we departed, passing the "Keep Austin Weird" sign at the airport, I reflected on how this city had surprised us. Yes, it was weird in the best way culturally and musically, but what I hadn't expected was Austin's impressive wine scene. With boundary-pushing wine pairings at Barley Swine and an auction featuring impressive collections of rare bottles, Austin established itself as a legitimate destination for serious wine enthusiasts.

Our weekend had delivered three distinct experiences: a Michelin-worthy tasting menu, an authentic food tour of local specialties, and a high-end wine auction benefiting the community. It was the perfect introduction to a city we'll undoubtedly return to – next time with empty spaces in our VinGardeValise wine suitcase, ready for more fine wine treasures.