King of Nebbiolo: An Evening with Seven Stellar Barolos
When it comes to Italian wines, few command the reverence and mystique of Barolo. As a passionate fan who's wandered the misty hills of Piedmont myself, I was thrilled to attend a masterclass focused entirely on this noble expression of the Nebbiolo grape at The Wine Store in Johns Creek, GA.
WHEN EXPERTISE MEETS ENTHUSIASM
Having explored the Barolo region firsthand last year (you can read about my adventures here and here), I was eager to deepen my understanding through this carefully curated tasting led by Keith Lofton, whose knowledge of Italian wines is truly impressive. Though The Wine Store requires a significant drive from my home near downtown Atlanta, their exceptional tastings and selection make every mile worthwhile.
The evening's premise was enticing - Keith's invitation promised "6-7 Different Barolos covering multiple communes/townships and vineyard sites" with prices ranging from $70 to $200 per bottle. This would be a rare opportunity to compare different expressions of Barolo side by side, exploring how terroir, producer style, and vintage variation shape these magnificent wines.
TERROIR TALES
One fascinating aspect of the tasting was the opportunity to compare Barolos from different communes within the region. For those unfamiliar, Barolo is divided into several distinct areas - each imparting unique characteristics to the wines produced there. Our tasting featured selections from multiple zones, providing a comprehensive tour of the region's diverse terroir.
Keith provided an excellent map showing the various regions and sub-regions, helping us visualize exactly where each wine originated. He explained how factors like soil composition (predominantly calcareous marl, but with significant variations), elevation, aspect, and microclimate dramatically influence the character of each wine.
THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN
Our lineup for the evening included seven distinguished Barolos, each with its own story and character. All had been decanted for two to three hours prior to tasting - a necessary step for young Barolos with their famously firm tannins.
We began with the 2019 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto, which I scored 90 points. This wine showed a classic ruby red color with red fruit notes, though it was quite tannic as expected from its youth. The wine improved noticeably when paired with cheese, softening those prominent tannins. The Monfalletto vineyard has been in the Cordero family since 1340, representing an incredible continuity of winemaking tradition.
Next came the 2019 Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta, which earned 87 points from me - my least favorite of the evening. With its ruby red color, this wine showed less expressiveness on the nose compared to the Monfalletto. The palate revealed considerable tannins, but the finish seemed unbalanced with a peculiar aftertaste. Luigi Baudana's wines are now made by the renowned Vajra family, who acquired the estate in 2009 but maintained its separate identity.
The 2018 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis, scoring 90 points, offered a darker ruby color with brownish hints. This wine presented a distinctive barnyard character on the nose - a hallmark of its more traditional, old-school styling. On the palate, it showed beautiful balance with elegant red fruit notes, making it notably more refined than the first two wines. The Cavallotto family has been making wine at their Castiglione Falletto estate since 1928.
Moving on to the 2017 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana Ginestra, which I rated 90 points. This wine displayed prominent red fruit on the nose, with noticeable alcohol and tannic structure on the palate. It paired beautifully with the provided snacks. Keith explained that Clerico, once known for a modernist approach, has been moving toward more traditional methods since 2015, showing how Barolo production continues to evolve.
The 2018 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo Monvigliero received 88 points from me. This more modern-styled Barolo showed a lighter ruby color and an extremely expressive nose. On the palate, it exhibited intense cherry notes with an almost liqueur-like quality, though the tannins remained quite pronounced. The Einaudi winery was founded in 1897 by Luigi Einaudi, who would later become President of Italy from 1948 to 1955.
The penultimate wine, 2019 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi, earned 92 points. Having been open for three hours, this wine from the famous Cannubi hill showed a ruby red color with darker red fruit on both nose and palate. Among the younger Barolos tasted that night, this was my clear favorite. Chiara Boschis, one of the first female winemakers in Barolo, took over this historic estate in 1990 and has earned a reputation as one of the region's finest producers.
The evening's standout wine was the 2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera, which I awarded 95 points and was clearly the Wine Of The Night (WOTN). After three hours of decanting, this mature Barolo displayed a dark brownish-red color with an orangish rim - the telltale sign of a properly aged Nebbiolo. The nose was absolutely outstanding, with barely perceptible tannins after 12 years of development. The palate offered mouthfilling fruit complemented by intriguing woodsy notes. Keith explained that this wine comes from a limestone-rich vineyard in a cooler microclimate, factors that contribute to its exceptional balance and depth.
BEYOND THE BOTTLE
Throughout the evening, Keith shared invaluable insights about Barolo's history, winemaking traditions, and evolving styles. The region has seen the classic tension between traditionalists (who favor extended maceration and aging in large Slavonian oak casks) and modernists (who typically opt for shorter maceration and French barriques), though many producers now blend aspects of both approaches.
He also explained the significant impact of Barolo's elevation, exposure, and soil types. The famous limestone and clay soils of the region are perfect for Nebbiolo, allowing for optimal drainage while retaining enough moisture during dry periods. These soils also contribute to the wines' characteristic structure and longevity.
The tasting offered a perfect introduction for newcomers while providing plenty of nuance for experienced Barolo lovers. The selection of wines demonstrated the remarkable diversity within this small region, from the more approachable, fruit-forward styles to the powerful, structured expressions that demand patience.
THE VERDICT
This masterclass reinforced my deep appreciation for Barolo and illuminated how various factors - producer style, specific vineyard sites, vintage conditions, and bottle age - collectively shape these extraordinary wines. The side-by-side comparison format was particularly illuminating, highlighting subtle differences that might be missed when tasting these wines in isolation.
While the younger Barolos certainly showed promise, the 2012 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera demonstrated why patience is rewarded with these wines. Its perfect integration of fruit, acidity, and tannin after 12 years of aging was a compelling argument for cellaring.
For wine enthusiasts in the Atlanta area who haven't yet visited The Wine Store, I can't recommend it highly enough. Their thoughtfully organized tastings and knowledgeable staff make the journey to Johns Creek worthwhile, and their mailing list ensures you'll never miss events like this Barolo masterclass.
As I drove home reflecting on the evening, I felt grateful for the opportunity to experience these magnificent wines and eager to revisit the rolling hills of Piedmont on my next Italian adventure. Until then, I'll be checking my cellar for any Barolos that might be approaching their prime drinking window.
